opinion need for 74442guy

Doesn't hurt to visit Joe Mondello's site either.

http://www.mondellotwister.com/articles.html

Olds FAQ, even though it hasn't been updated in close to ten years, is a great place to check around for info.

To answer your question Limey, the Torker is a single plane, it's just outdated. If you want a single plane intake, you might as well go with a Victor intake. Of course, to get the most from it, you gotta fix the oiling problems & strap down the caps with a halo. Then there's the huge main journals to deal with.....

I really don't think the Torker would stand up to the Crosswind on either end of the scale. Look at all of the testing that's been done with the Performer Airgap stuff & how it always ends up within one or two horsepower of the single plane it is stacked against, but makes more down low. The Crosswind is basically the same thing. Here are a few things to consider:

1. The Crosswind is a high rise dual plane intake, the Torker is a low rise single plane.

2. The Cross wind is rated from 1500-6500, the torker is 2500 - 6500. Who has a better range?

3. The Crosswind has a nice air gap to supposedly keep the intake charge cooler.

4. Crosswind - computer designed modern technology. Torker - 1980's technology.

Maybe I'm biased, maybe I'm wrong. I just can't see an argument on which intake is better. Spend the extra $20 for a modern intake design & quit trying to build high end horsepower with a torque monster anyways, lol.

here's his dilema he already owns the torker and the crosswind is 319 new from any parts store and evil bay

Crosswind is a little cheaper at Summit Racing. Let me look around & find a better deal. I thought you were talking about your build?

If I were him, I stick it out with the Torker for a while. First take care of the traction control, then worry about more power I'd say.

Holy crap, I just made addict! Five stars for me beeoootch!

yea I if he gets the crosswind I might get the torker from him so kinda yes I am talking about my build and his at same time kinda gonna be like hand me down parts LMAO, what can he do about the traction issue is there anything past boxed control arm that will help it with traction ??

Rago wrote:Holy crap, I just made addict! Five stars for me beeoootch!

wtg you reached the 1000th post mile stone

#1 - If he would listen to me & drop the gear ratio to 3.73.... Bigger meats out back, drop the front sway bar & get some 90/10s when he goes drag racing or better yet, get adjustable shocks front & rear to dial in the suspension. There's different methods of thinking on stiff springs vs soft springs, so I'll leave that can unopened for the moment. I'm sure there's other things like trying to distribute weight as far back as possible & such. What were y'alls thoughts?

Limey wrote:

Rago wrote:Holy crap, I just made addict! Five stars for me beeoootch!

wtg you reached the 1000th post mile stone

Yeah & you're on your way to 3000, lol.

yea man LMAO on a roll

if its race only get as much fiberglass on the nose as possible. also relocate bat to trunk. race air bag helper on rear to help stop any wheel hop. ditch the factory front control arms for light weight tubular . adjustable rear control arms. as long as it is secured add rear (lead or steel) ballast bars as last resort

Rago wrote:#1 - If he would listen to me & drop the gear ratio to 3.73.... Bigger meats out back, drop the front sway bar & get some 90/10s when he goes drag racing or better yet, get adjustable shocks front & rear to dial in the suspension. There's different methods of thinking on stiff springs vs soft springs, so I'll leave that can unopened for the moment. I'm sure there's other things like trying to distribute weight as far back as possible & such. What were y'alls thoughts?

I agree with the gears and tires he is running street tire right now and unless its designed for street / strip use you might as well be wearing a roller skate and I do agree for the 90 / 10 split for the front but wont the drag bag's help with the rear ?? instead of the shocks ??

I'd still go with some adjustable shocks in the rear. Summit has some pretty cheap & they are probably a knock off of CE or Koni. The more you can dial in your suspension, the better off you are. Again, there are different opinions on whether the rear should be stiff or soft but if you want my thoughts....... I prefer a tight A$$, lol.

yeah but the car is mostly a street car well it will spend most of its life as a street car maybe run on week ends i just want a bad a$$ street machine lol and soon as i get 300 bucks limeys friend going to swap in some 3.73s lol

my problem is traction too, and im an addict