Auto to manual swap

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Post by JF74chevelle on Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:14 pm

Also, another question, will I have to get a different steering column? Or will I be able to use my current one?
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Post by McCauley5983 on Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:17 pm

You can use the current one but you won't be able to hook up reverse lights the factory way and will have to turn them on by rotating the column or by rewiring them to an aftermarket switch
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Post by JF74chevelle on Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:47 pm

Okay so I can just get a trans reverse switch and not have to get a different column
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Post by Joe73 on Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:04 pm

Yes you can get a reverse switch that would mount to the trans. That would be the easiest way to go. You could use your column but you would have to get a new switch for the bottom of the column and hookup some type of backdrive system. Way easier getting a trans mounted switch. Or even easier, just mount a normal toggle switch under the dash and click it on when you go into reverse.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:29 pm

Okay so what do you guys think of this trans I saw surfing on the web.http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/107822/s/mcleod-racing-muscle-car-5-speed/category/41/
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Post by Joe73 on Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:59 pm

You can put in any trans you like. Just have to match up your parts. If your not looking for original, I'd definitely go with a 5 speed. Having that super low first gear would be great for launching hard and overdrive for cruising. Best of both worlds.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:10 am

As I'm closing in on this project I need to get things straight first I need a Muncie trans with an output shaft spline count of 27, and and input shaft of what? Will my current trans crossmember for the TH350 work? And what clutch would you guys recommend for foot street drivability and performance? Thanks guys I just need to get parts squared away before jumping into it
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:23 am

If you have a choice, go with a 5 or 6 speed. You will be happier in the long run. A 4speed will only give you a 1:1 final drive and if you change rear end gears you will want a numerically lower final drive ratio in the trans. My muncie with stock 3.42 rear was a great set up but I didnt find it too comfortable driving on the highway.

I can only speak about a saginaw and Muncie, but yes, your th350 crossmember will work with either of these two trannys.

Muncies are broken into (2) categories. Pre-'70 and '70 and later. Pre '70 all had 10 spline input with 27 output which is the same output at a TH350. (There is an exception with the 1970 M22 which had 26 input and 32 output.) The '70 and later all had the 26 input with 32 output which is the same output as a TH400 trans. The '70 and later are also 3/4" longer in overall length than the Pre-'70. Also, I wouldnt get any muncie pre 1966 because they use the smaller diameter countershaft pin. They are not as strong. The '70 and later are the muncies of choice for strength.

As for clutch types, matters what you plan on doing with the car. I'd recommend a Centerforce Dual Friction (diaphram style) since it has easy pedal feel and HIGH holding power. But I would snip the wire ring and remove the counter weight gimmick on the pressure plate. Too many stories of them rusting up and not moving freely and causing vibrations. Another choice I like is the Mcleod and the Ram.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Wed Jun 08, 2016 6:11 pm

Also will I need the 8-3/4 or 10" z-bar?
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Jun 08, 2016 6:40 pm

I'd have to double check but I have a small block and I believe it's the 10 inch one since the block is smaller. Also don't forget to keep the hole through the firewall small and use the 70-81 firewall boot for it. Factory hole is way bigger and the boot is unavailable.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:00 pm

Okay will do, I can't thank you guys enough for all the information, and will I run into any problems with linkage and headers?
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:15 pm

I havent had any issues with headers and I've run at least 5 different brands over the years. I have to say that hookers seem to fit the best. But I've heard that hedman also fit real well.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:09 pm

Good good I have hedmans on the car now and when I rebuild it I probably won't spend money on new headers
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Post by JF74chevelle on Sun Jul 24, 2016 3:36 am

Okay so I think I'm going to be getting a 4-speed Muncie tomorrow (July 24), it is a 10 input 27 output, I wan to get a RAM Clutch because from what I have heard it is the best for the street. And I want to know all of the little things hag I need, I know I need a bell housing, flywheel, pilot bushing, clutch pedals and linkage and shifter, what am I missing that I need?
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Post by clanceman427 on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:33 am

Since you're going Muncie I believe you'll need a longer speeedo cable like Joe mentioned. This is because the Muncie hooks up on the passenger side.
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Post by Joe73 on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:51 am

For our years muncies speedo is on the pass side. Since your getting a pre-'70 muncie (10 spline) odds are it will be on the drivers side so you should be good.

Do some research on the net on how to inspect a muncie. You need to pull the side cover and look at the gears. Especially the engagement teeth which are the little teeth in front of each actual gear. They are shaped kind of like a little "house". You want the point of the roof to not be rounded. And although not needed but would be beneficial if there is some rounding, torque loc sliders will help with popping out of gear.

Your steering column will work as stated above but if your looking to make the swap appear stock and you currently have a column shift, you will need to switch the collar on your column to get rid of the tab that your column shifter handle attaches to. Thats a decent job to do. But if you already have buckets then no issue.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:22 pm

Okay so I got the trans, the side cover casting # is (3950306), the tail house casting # is (3846429) and the main case casting # is (3925661) and I believe this is a 70'-74' but the tail house is 27 spline, did someone along the line put this together with mismatched parts?
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Post by Joe73 on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:39 pm

Yes, you have a frankenstein. 661 case is correct for '70 1/2 and later. If I remember correctly that side cover is '69 only. And the tail is '63-'65. But check my link below and google the part numbers.

As long as it was put together correctly it should be fine. I'm not a big fan of that tail casting number. Real early piece.

http://www.5speeds.com/muncie/home/identification/ Click on the left side for info links.

How does the stamped numbers look on it ? Legible ?
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Post by JF74chevelle on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:49 pm

So does this mean that I have 70-74 gear ratios?
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Post by Joe73 on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:54 pm

You have to open it to see. First gear on an M20 is usually 2.52 ratio. M21 is 2.20. Then there was an oddball 2.56 if I remember correctly.

You have to put the trans in 2nd gear to remove and install the side cover. I would have looked inside before I bought it. If the engagement teeth are worn it will be popping out of gear. Then you have to do an overhaul.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:57 pm

I looked inside and all of the teeth look good, they are not rounded.
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Post by Joe73 on Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:58 pm

Ok, you have to count the teeth on first gear to see if you have an M20 or 21. All muncies, like th350 and th400 are 1:1 final drive gear ratio, so no change there.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Sun Jul 24, 2016 9:38 pm

Okay so now I'm at this point, I need a shifter and kit, preferably a hurst, can you give me a part number that'll fit our cars?
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Post by Joe73 on Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:34 am

Sure. http://www.hurst-shifters.com/ If you use the drop down to search, just click 1973 or 1974 for your year. Only because no manual trans in our cars after 74.

http://www.hurst-shifters.com/search-results/?mk=47&yr=1974&md=468&sm=0&e=0&stype=MQ%3D%3D

I'd take a look locally around you or on ebay for a used hurst competition plus for a good price. There's loads of used ones out there. Then just grab the correct installation kit and handle. If your not going with a console you can use any handle you like. But the 6836 handle is correct for our cars with or without a console.
And theres really no need for a shifter hump. Just screw the boot to the floor.
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