TH350 Removal & Carb Help

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Post by JF74chevelle on Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:13 am

Okay guys the time has finally came, the swap from the Th350 to the muncie will be happening very soon, the last of the parts are on their way. My question is what is the best way to drop the automatic out of their, do i need to take the distributor out and tilt the motor back? and what is the best way to get this car up high enough so i can pull the trans out from underneath. And lastly i am still having trouble with the motor. After a good 20 minute drive it will just shutoff on me while sitting at a light or making a very tight turn at practically idle. Or if i shut it off to get gas after about a 10 minute drive it will start to die on me. I think it could possibly be a vacuum leak but wouldn't that affect the car right at start up? Not after driving for a while. I have noticed a pool of oil on top of the intake manifold right below the carb on the passenger side, i used the edelbrock intake gaskets with the metal tabs when i first installed it. Its a 1406 edelbrock 600cfm carb with electric choke, im not sure if the choke if a problem or if it is float adjustment or what. At idle in gear it is pulling 14Hg of vacuum thats will th eidle at 850rpm i believe, and to me that is a low number. Thanks-Justin
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Post by Joe73 on Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:27 am

You do not have to do anything to the engine to remove the trans.  Distributor stays put.  You will have to put a jack or something with a block of wood under the oil pan just to stabilize the engine when the trans is out.  I'd try to keep the car level but jacked up high enough to slide the trans out.  If you dont have a trans jack they you would use a flat piece of wood under the trans pan and a jack under that to support the trans and lower it.

14 inches of vacuum is a good number, no issues there.

BUT, me personally, I wouldnt mess with ANY trans stuff until that engine is running correctly!!!  Why open a can of worms.  You have to get into your fuel and ignition system and find out whats going on.  

If your running electronic ignition, I'd take a look at the ignition module.  I'd also be looking at the fuel pump, float level, maybe the choke (wire it open after the car warms up and drive it around).
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:23 am

It won't hurt to at least pull the distributor cap and give yourself a little room to not break it.
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE on Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:08 am

I just pulled the trans out of my monte. the 454 never moved. I did mine on my lift with a trans jack. so glad I did.because of my 2-1/2 exhaust I could not get crossmember out,and it was in the way of clearing the tail. it was a struggle,but I managed. I had to do it twice this way while trying to find the right stall convertor to use.

you have a lot of work ahead of you. make sure the car is stable enough to be in the air for a long period of time.

get all the bugs out of the motor first while its still moveable. than after you do the swap you will be able to enjoy it.
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Post by 73ss on Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:07 pm

Choke should be fully open within 5-min or so and should stay open. You'r fuel pressure could be creeping up when it's hot. Are you running a return style pump with the return plugged?
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Post by bigredlaguna on Tue Dec 13, 2016 12:32 am

The edelbrock carb is finicky about the float level. If you don't have the literature for it, it is easy to find on the internet. You just take the top off, turn it upside down, and use a drill bit (don't remember the size right now) as a gauge to set the float height. There is also a measurement for the float drop also but I don't think it is as critical as the other measurement.

I like to set the choke by holding the throttle open just enough to allow the choke linkage to move without interference. Move the spring housing back until it opens the choke, then close it until the choke plate is fully closed. After that you can move the spring tighter to give you more time with the choke closed according to your weather conditions.

I also think the sudden dying could be a module going bad. When you get a new one, make sure you get the white paste for the heat transfer compound. The clear stuff will fry it in seconds. I know for a fact.

You should be able to get the trans swap done in a weekend, barring something like a driveshaft mod. Like others have said, make sure the car is safe while in the air. Good luck!
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Post by JF74chevelle on Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:33 am

Also i found some cracks in the middle of the three fuel lines coming from the tank, could that be allowing air into the fuel lines? Also could vapor lock be a proper diagnosis here since it only starts to die on me after a longer drive. And by module are you talking about an Ignition module going bad in the dizzy?
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Post by JF74chevelle on Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:38 am

73ss wrote:Choke should be fully open within 5-min or so and should stay open. You'r fuel pressure could be creeping up when it's hot. Are you running a return style pump with the return plugged?
I have the return lines all hooked up, buy i did put a new fuel pump on because my old on died on me. Are the edelbrocks sensitive to fuel pressures? should i look into a fuel pressure regulator?
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Post by ant7377 on Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:26 am

Those rubber lines from the tank definitely could be some of the problem. You have some tinkering to do there though. I had a Edlebrock on mine for about a week. Didn't care too much for it.
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Post by Joe73 on Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:30 am

ignition module is in the distributor IF you have electronic.ignition. if your running a mechanical fuel pump on the.block you won't need a.regulator unless.it's a race model.
Do you have 2 or 3 steel lines coming out of the fuel tank? It would.be 3.lines if you have a return. 2 lines no return.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Tue Dec 13, 2016 10:09 am

ant7377 wrote:Those rubber lines from the tank definitely could be some of the problem.  You have some tinkering to do there though. I had a Edlebrock on mine for about a week. Didn't care too much for it.
im just about finished with this eddy, should've gone holley but i didn't know any better.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Tue Dec 13, 2016 10:10 am

Joe73 wrote:ignition module is in the distributor IF you have electronic.ignition.   if your running a mechanical fuel pump on the.block you won't need a.regulator unless.it's a race model.
Do you have 2 or 3 steel lines coming out of the fuel tank?   It would.be 3.lines if you have a return.  2 lines no return.
I have three RUBBER lines coming from the tank and the middle one has a bunch of cracks in it, doesnt look to leak fuel but it could be letting in air. And i have an HEI dizzy
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Post by Joe73 on Tue Dec 13, 2016 10:20 am

if the.hoses aren't leaking I'd hold.off on changing them. But they will need to be changed. Your h e I has a model in it. Might want to find out how to check it or replace it. Don't forget the.dI-electric grease that insulates the bottom of the module from heat. Very important.
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Post by 73ss on Tue Dec 13, 2016 9:00 pm

JF74chevelle wrote:
73ss wrote:Choke should be fully open within 5-min or so and should stay open. You'r fuel pressure could be creeping up when it's hot. Are you running a return style pump with the return plugged?
I have the return lines all hooked up, buy i did put a new fuel pump on because my old on died on me. Are the edelbrocks sensitive to fuel pressures? should i look into a fuel pressure regulator?

Not if it's a stock replacement pump, but it could be faulty and making too much pressure. Someone else on here had problems with one. As someone else stated do check the float level. You said it dies making a tight turn? Sure sign of too much pressure/high float level. gas is probably spilling out of the vents, down into the carb.

http://www.g3gm.com/t10391-new-fuel-pump-flooded-carb
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Post by JF74chevelle on Wed Dec 14, 2016 1:33 am

What is the maximum PSI that an edelbrock 1406 can handle? I ran the numbers on the fuel pump and it said that minimum it will run 7.5 PSI. I thought the edelbrocks can only handle about 6.5 at max.
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Post by ant7377 on Wed Dec 14, 2016 7:53 am

I think they say ideally around 6 psi. It's out there on the net though.
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Post by JF74chevelle on Wed Dec 14, 2016 10:10 am

Do you think that the fuel pump is the issue? Could the High PSI that its putting out eventually flood the motor while im in traffic or on a longer drive? It tends to die on me when im in stop and go traffic.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Wed Dec 14, 2016 10:42 am

I would try a small inline regulator. Set it to 5 psi and see if it helps.
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Post by bigredlaguna on Wed Dec 14, 2016 10:50 am

I am running a eddy 1406 with a mechanical fuel pump on my daughter's car. When I first got the car, it would fluctuate between 3-5 psi at idle and 5-7 psi at running speed. I re-used the pump on the new engine, except I changed the output fitting. The old one was a straight out 5/16" that made the line go out against the lower radiator hose. I didn't like that, so I put on a 90* 3/8" fitting and the same pump has 6-7 psi at idle now. So far, no issues but I am keeping an eye on it.

Tuning and adjusting an edelbrock is no different than other carburetors, they all work on the same theory of operation. I haven't had any problem tuning any carb I've had except one that had a crack in the main body casting.
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