357 build question

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357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Wed May 03, 2017 9:55 am

I have all of my parts picked out already for my build but my dilemma is, what should I buy first? Or should I buy everything in one swing? Here's my list so far
Brodix 180IK
Comp Cam 274 hydraulic flat tappet
Crower cam saver lifters
Eagle rotating assembly
My edelbrock EPS and 1406 carb
GM rocker arms
Melling timing chain,high volume oil pump, intermediate shaft and pickup
Milodon pan and timing cover.
ARP head bolt kit
I'll have to measure pushrod length and buy accordingly
It may make over 400 ponies it may not I don't really care, I'm just going to tune it and drive the h*** out of it.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by bracketchev1221 on Wed May 03, 2017 10:58 am

If it was me I would start with the rotating assembly. Put the crank in, and then work on getting the cam, lifters and timing chain. Put the cam and timing chain in and then degree the cam. Now work on getting the heads and check your piston to valve clearance. With that cam I don't think it should be an issue but its safe to check. Once that is done, go ahead and start putting the pistons in. After the pistons are in, work on buttoning up the short block. Then put the heads on, and start working on the valvetrain stuff.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Wed May 03, 2017 11:12 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:If it was me I would start with the rotating assembly.  Put the crank in, and then work on getting the cam, lifters and timing chain.  Put the cam and timing chain in and then degree the cam. Now work on getting the heads and check your piston to valve clearance.  With that cam I don't think it should be an issue but its safe to check.  Once that is done, go ahead and start putting the pistons in.  After the pistons are in, work on buttoning up the short block.  Then put the heads on, and start working on the valvetrain stuff.  
thank you, this is exactly the advice I was looking for!!
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Re: 357 build question

Post by clanceman427 on Wed May 03, 2017 11:35 am

Ray, hel'll need #1 piston and rod assembly installed at least to degree the cam in, correct? To establish true Top Dead Center?
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Wed May 03, 2017 12:00 pm

clanceman427 wrote:Ray, hel'll need #1 piston and rod assembly installed at least to degree the cam in, correct?  To establish true Top Dead Center?
I have planning to just have #1 in so it's easier to rotate
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Re: 357 build question

Post by Joe73 on Wed May 03, 2017 12:37 pm

JF74chevelle wrote:
clanceman427 wrote:Ray, hel'll need #1 piston and rod assembly installed at least to degree the cam in, correct?  To establish true Top Dead Center?
I have planning to just have #1 in so it's easier to rotate

I agree. Just the #1 piston installed then degree the cam. Make sure you dont use the red cam lube. You want the black moly stuff that sticks to everything. And I like to fire the new motor up within 2-3 weeks of assembly so all the lube doesnt slide down and off the parts. But thats just me.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by Joe73 on Wed May 03, 2017 12:40 pm

Another idea. After degreeing the cam with just the #1 piston installed. Degree the bellhousing for center and measure flywheel parallel. Since your in this deep, might as well check everything. Degreeing the bellhousing assures no misalignment of the trans input shaft and the crankshaft. Misalignment can cause excess were on the input bearing and in some cases harder than normal shifting.
Just a thought for manual trans guys.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by bracketchev1221 on Wed May 03, 2017 1:40 pm

clanceman427 wrote:Ray, hel'll need #1 piston and rod assembly installed at least to degree the cam in, correct?  To establish true Top Dead Center?

Yes he will.  I guess I wasn't clear enough in the description but that was why I said to install the pistons later.  That was figuring that he didn't install all the pistons right up front. I wouldn't even install the rings. Just put a wrap or 2 of masking tape on the piston around the ring lands to support it.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by Joe73 on Wed May 03, 2017 2:12 pm

Ray, Awesome idea with the masking tape. I will use that idea. Thanks
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Wed May 03, 2017 2:26 pm

Joe73 wrote:Ray, Awesome idea with the masking tape.  I will use that idea.  Thanks
joe, what oil would you recommend for the flat tappet?
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Re: 357 build question

Post by Joe73 on Wed May 03, 2017 2:44 pm

Answering that question can really open a can of worms. But I'll do it anyway. I will be using Chevron Supreme 5W30 conventional for the 30-minute break in and no additive with it. After that I will dump it out and put in Mobil 1 5 w30 synthetic for the rest of its life. But do your research. And use what your comfortable with.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Wed May 03, 2017 4:01 pm

Okay thank you joe
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Re: 357 build question

Post by bracketchev1221 on Thu May 04, 2017 9:35 am

Which part number rotating assembly are you looking at?
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Thu May 04, 2017 12:17 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:Which part number rotating assembly are you looking at?  
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13402e040

That is the link

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Re: 357 build question

Post by bracketchev1221 on Thu May 04, 2017 2:04 pm

Let me toss out an idea. The kit you are looking at it $607. B13405E040 is $750. And it comes with a new flexplate and balancer. If you are looking for 400 hp out of a 357, that is 1.12 hp per cubic inch. The $750 kit, would give you 385" and multiply that by 1.12 hp / cubic inch, gets you a 430 hp engine with better low end torque due to longer stroke. If you had to buy a new balancer and flexplate for your 350, it would cover the $143 upcharge for the 385 kit. And give you no performance gain. Just an idea.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Thu May 04, 2017 2:29 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:Let me toss out an idea.  The kit you are looking at it $607.  B13405E040 is $750.  And it comes with a new flexplate and balancer.   If you are looking for 400 hp out of a 357, that is 1.12 hp per cubic inch.  The $750 kit, would give you 385" and multiply that by 1.12 hp / cubic inch, gets you a 430 hp engine with better low end torque due to longer stroke.   If you had to buy a new balancer and flexplate for your 350, it would cover the $143 upcharge for the 385 kit.  And give you no performance gain.  Just an idea.

I have definitely thought about the stroker upgrade but I don't want to have to clearance the bottom of the cylinders and the pan rails. Plus I need a flywheel not a flexplate and it's almost brand new.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by fasrnur on Thu May 04, 2017 7:23 pm

You stated that you want to drive the snot out of it? Well it looks like to me you have picked out a nice little combo that will serve you well for years to come and could be run on pump gas without any problems. I personally would go with it and have a blast driving it. Go for it sir!
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Thu May 04, 2017 7:48 pm

fasrnur wrote:You stated that you want to drive the snot out of it? Well it looks like to me you have picked out a nice little combo that will serve you well for years to come and could be run on pump gas without any problems. I personally would go with it and have a blast driving it. Go for it sir!

Thank you, with help from you guys I has able to put together a reasonably priced combination of parts to make a good motor to get beat on lol. I will be driving this everyday on 91 octane because that's all I have near me
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Re: 357 build question

Post by bracketchev1221 on Thu May 04, 2017 8:44 pm

Ah gotcha. Didn't realize it was a stick car.
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Re: 357 build question

Post by JF74chevelle on Fri May 05, 2017 12:52 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:Ah gotcha.  Didn't realize it was a stick car.

I just swapped it about 2 months ago, I fell back in love with it after my first drive. I'd never ever go back to auto
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