These dont come up too often
G3GM :: Classifieds :: For Sale
Page 1 of 1 • Share •
These dont come up too often
Not mine. But pretty cool. I have a brand new in the box set.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/traction-bars-A-body-GTO-lemans-cutlass-chevelle/142721971781?hash=item213ae47645:g:KcwAAOSwY4taqZFP&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/traction-bars-A-body-GTO-lemans-cutlass-chevelle/142721971781?hash=item213ae47645:g:KcwAAOSwY4taqZFP&vxp=mtr
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 70
Re: These dont come up too often
How would these mount Joe he is driving distance from me ?
Limey SE- Management
- Street Cred : 89
Re: These dont come up too often
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20189/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710927972&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=47430200350&CATCI=pla-324540339480&CATARGETID=230006180003468617&cadevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIus7jjZvt2QIVFrXACh3C2gkDEAQYBSABEgK4pPD_BwE
Check this out Limey. Go to the "instructions" and you'll see how it's done.
Check this out Limey. Go to the "instructions" and you'll see how it's done.
fasrnur- G3GM Enthusiast
- Street Cred : 4
Re: These dont come up too often
Remove your rear lower control arm bolt, put bar in place, replace bolt. Heim joint goes to the axle rebound perch. Bolt goes through the perch and the heim joint. Very simple installation.
I dont recommend them for the street for this reason. Lets says you set up the snubber a 1/2" from your frame. Your driving down the road, hit a dip and the rear goes down more than the 1/2". Just normal driving. In that dip the snubber will touch the frame and rotate the pinion downward. Not a big deal on a small dip at low speed. But stress is all on the axle rebound perch which isnt a real strong piece.
But if you drag the car alot, you would put the snubber just touching the frame and that would stop the axle rotation upon launch. That would be a good thing.
I have a brand new set of these from Competition Engineering that I purchased new back when they first came out. I never decided to install them for the above reason.
I also ran the 73-77 ladder bars for some time but they are hard on our cars. The dont mount like previous generation to the lower control arm bolt. Ours mount to the SHOCK BOLT which is a horrible location. I've ripped open that shock bolt hole numerous times. Not fun at all. I sold the ladder bars back in the early 90s.
I think the best option for a street driven car, to increase traction with no ill effect on anything, would be the edit Miller No-hop bars with adjustable upper arms. He sells them as a kit for our cars for $500.
I dont recommend them for the street for this reason. Lets says you set up the snubber a 1/2" from your frame. Your driving down the road, hit a dip and the rear goes down more than the 1/2". Just normal driving. In that dip the snubber will touch the frame and rotate the pinion downward. Not a big deal on a small dip at low speed. But stress is all on the axle rebound perch which isnt a real strong piece.
But if you drag the car alot, you would put the snubber just touching the frame and that would stop the axle rotation upon launch. That would be a good thing.
I have a brand new set of these from Competition Engineering that I purchased new back when they first came out. I never decided to install them for the above reason.
I also ran the 73-77 ladder bars for some time but they are hard on our cars. The dont mount like previous generation to the lower control arm bolt. Ours mount to the SHOCK BOLT which is a horrible location. I've ripped open that shock bolt hole numerous times. Not fun at all. I sold the ladder bars back in the early 90s.
I think the best option for a street driven car, to increase traction with no ill effect on anything, would be the edit Miller No-hop bars with adjustable upper arms. He sells them as a kit for our cars for $500.
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 70
Re: These dont come up too often
fasrnur wrote:http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20189/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710927972&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=47430200350&CATCI=pla-324540339480&CATARGETID=230006180003468617&cadevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIus7jjZvt2QIVFrXACh3C2gkDEAQYBSABEgK4pPD_BwE
Check this out Limey. Go to the "instructions" and you'll see how it's done.
Those are pretty much the same. But for our gen cars the top of the heim joint rod would not have the bracket shown in that pic. It would be a tube welded perpendicular to the rod. That is so a bolt can slide through, horizontally, through the axle rebound bumper perch. Very weak spot to mount to in my opinion.
I have also seen them with just a heim joint up top for a bolt to go through.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20188/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710927973&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=aud-194567928791:pla-192355992311&CATARGETID=230006180039217274&cadevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIudfykZ_t2QIVHbbACh1udgwCEAQYAyABEgK-pfD_BwE
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 70
Re: These dont come up too often
I have never seen a set that didn't use a bracket to attach the adjusting rod to the snubber mount. I am pretty sure the Jegs link listed just doesn't show it for the picture. But it is in the instructions to use a bracket.
bracketchev1221- G3GM Enthusiast
- Street Cred : 14
Re: These dont come up too often
I remember when they first came out they had the rod with a heim joint that connected to the traction bar. But on the top end of the bar it had a "T" welded on that fit inside the rebound perch. I thought it was a poor design. Looks like they now redesigned it.
I've always loved the look of ladder bars but they just arent practical on the street.
I've always loved the look of ladder bars but they just arent practical on the street.
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 70
G3GM :: Classifieds :: For Sale
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
» Tail Light with backup lens
» olds rear axle
» Frame Bracing
» Recent arrivals at junkyards
» Hello from Florida!
» 1974 Malibu interior
» Warning: Flickr has been sold
» WANTED 73-77 Chevelle 442 rear window louvers
» For Sale: '74/'75 Pontiac Lemans Front Chin Spoiler