Freakin' Bumper Bolts!

Okay...so decided to tackle the job of separating the rear bumper from the back support on a spare bumper I pulled off a '76 Laguna last week. Anyone attempt to do this on a bumper with the rub strip? I've learned that the rub strip must come off in order to access the six bumper bolt heads. Why do I need to access the bolt heads? BECAUSE THE FREAKIN' NUTS ARE RUSTED SO TIGHT THAT, EVEN AFTER SOAKING THEM IN PB BLASTER FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THEY JUST DON'T LOOSEN AND THE BOLTS END UP ROTATING IN THE SQUARE HOLE!! What to do? Well, I've been banging, swearing, cutting, swearing, hammering, swearing, until I've managed to get four of them out. But, not before I smashed the end of my left index finger with a hammer (can barely type this as a matter of fact) and managed to fry my Dremel. Now, just have the two innermost ones to tackle...but, for obvious reasons, that has been put on hold temporarily. For those who dare to tackle this project, the key seems to be hammering on the end of the bolt, forcing the metal backing against the bumper and thus, gaining a sixteenth of an inch of space between the bumper and the bolt head. I then wedge a screwdriver behind the rub strip so I can get a hacksaw blade in there to cut off the head. All kinds of fun...

You dont have a propane torch? JB

Ha...all I have is a propane soldering kit. Besides, wouldn't the heat ruin the rub strip and discolor the chrome bumper?

Mine have no strips but I feel your pain. Hang in there, you will win eventually. Bumpers are just about the biggest pain in the @$$...then there's cleaning off roof rails and cleaning & fixing window channels. UGH!

Don't know if this will help ya, but sometimes I drill some small holes in the ends of the nuts, along side of the bolt. A few small holes in the nut, around the bolt, will relieve the nut enough to get it loose. A 1/8 " drill bit usually works. Drilling as close as possible to the bolt threads also gives a place for penetrating oil to get in there better etc......

Small propane torch with the flame directed on the nut only. Use a putty knife to deflect heat from the bumper. After a couple of minutes the nut will be larger and should come right off. At least they did for me. Hope this helps.

I'll give it a try...as long as the heat won't melt the rub strip in that area. Drilling sounds like a viable option, too. Thanks for the tips!

Just get a nut splitter

Don't the nut splitters work from the side? Remember my dad using them back in the day, but have never owned one. Problem I have is there is no access to these last two bolts/nuts except straight down through a 1" dia. hole. Can't get at them from the sides.

just keep drilling them out. might eat a few bits just take it slow so they dont overheat as much

I don't get it...there's not a way to pull or gently pry the rub strip off to get access to the bolt heads? I remember from my rear bumper that the black strips on these things just pop off...I had to squeeze the ends a little from the inside of course. I'm assuming that your strip is installed the same way.





Maybe if you get some thin plastic putty knives (or thin flexible metal w/ tape to protect the bumper) you can work your way into the channel where the strip sits and by squeezing the tabs together both at the same time release the strip from the outside of the bumper w/ it laid on it's side? Sorry if this makes no sense....tired from putting motor back together.

coreys73chevelle wrote:just keep drilling them out. might eat a few bits just take it slow so they dont overheat as much

If you are drilling use a carbide tip masonry bit, the work pisser on steel....low rpm & some drilling lube will help also.

Wish it were that easy! But no, they are held on with nuts and, unlike the larger bumper bolts, don't have access holes to get to them. Thus, you need to separate the bumper from the backing support in order to get a socket on them.

Yeah...been using cobalt bits when drilling metal. And, of course, a standard length bit isn't long enough to get down to the nut through the backing support. Have to go buy a rigid extension for the drill, I guess. Are carbide masonry bits better suited for metal?

Mcarlo77 wrote:Yeah...been using cobalt bits when drilling metal. And, of course, a standard length bit isn't long enough to get down to the nut through the backing support. Have to go buy a rigid extension for the drill, I guess. Are carbide masonry bits better suited for metal?

I had to drill out a broken rear seat belt bolt...went through all my small bits making a pilot hole in order to use an extractor...ended up using a carbide masonry bit, they usually come in longer lengths too... I get mine at sears but Loews has good ones also.