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Engine Mount help

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DiscoMalibu
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1973 454 MONTE
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Engine Mount help Empty Engine Mount help

Post by 77mali Sun May 20, 2012 9:31 am

Which bolt(s) do you remove if you want the engine mount sections to stay on the frame & the block? Are they located in the middle between the two? I looked at this yesterday while removing the core & front bumper but can't seem to make sense of it right now... scratch

I think walking the bumper assembly to the workshop from the driveway may have caused a small embolism in my brain & I can't find the darn Haynes manual...confused
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Sun May 20, 2012 10:37 am

these are held on with 3 bolts to the block
Engine Mount help Kgrhqz12

which is connected to these with one bolt
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Post by Sinister Sun May 20, 2012 4:28 pm

All Gm is different..in your case just remove the bolt,the engine and clam shells will come right out,the rubber parts stay on the frame.
My Trans Am is the same.
My le mans has the rubber mounts on the engine,the metal clam shells on the frame.
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Post by 77mali Sun May 20, 2012 7:36 pm

Chris
Is the one bolt that connects the two under the top of that clam shell? In other words, you can't see it looking at it from the top of the engine bay?
How do you get at it? Does it bolt through from the bottom @ the frame rail?


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Post by pila Sun May 20, 2012 8:23 pm

There's just one long bolt on each side. One usually faces/points forward, because there's no room to get it out the other way, and the other faces aft..backward...I forget which is which...
Take a look with a mirror, or look up from the bottom side, and you will see what I'm describing. Actually they make engine removal & installation easy.

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Post by 77mali Sun May 20, 2012 8:49 pm

Thanks guy's, appreciate the replies. I'll take a closer look this week.
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Sun May 20, 2012 9:04 pm

If you look behind the fuel pump you should see a nut. Some mounts have an incased nut mounted to the mount cause it's hard to get a wrench on it.


Last edited by 1973 454 MONTE on Sun May 20, 2012 9:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Sun May 20, 2012 9:06 pm

The head of the bolt is 5/8. Nut is 11/16
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Post by Sinister Sun May 20, 2012 10:02 pm

Some motor mounts have a captive nut,but most just use a nut and bolt.
You'll need a wrench on one side to hold the nut and a socket to remove the long bolt.
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Post by 77mali Sun May 20, 2012 10:22 pm

OK....I get it now...I have to get on my back and pretend the mount is a front bumper bolt like whats on the bumper shocks. THANKS!
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Post by pila Mon May 21, 2012 12:30 am

Very Happy Very Happy We in this hobby seem to spend a lot of time on our backs under our projects, and even under our daily drivers sometimes ...
The Caddy North Star engine doesn't have the starter underneath, so crawling around under it doesn't work. The starter is mounted UNDER the intake manifold !!...which is made of plastic on the one I worked on. Shocked

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Post by 77mali Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:06 pm

OK guys, sorry to continue this discussion....

I want to take the bottom half off now to clean & paint the frame underneath them. There is all kinds of suspension parts in my way and there are no holes in the frame that have a direct "straight line" to the bolt head on the underside where I need to get a socket or wrench in order to hold it down to keep from spinning...is there a special tool for this? Stupid books I have don't mention this....Here's a pic of them

Engine Mount help P1030428


Last edited by 77mali on Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:24 pm

In the 28 years and 22 montes , I've never taken these off.
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Post by 77mali Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:32 pm

It looks impossible to get at the bolt heads on the underside without taking off the springs & control arms I'm guessing.
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Post by pila Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:33 pm

You need a 9/16" UNIVERSAL socket to get on the bolt heads under there, along with a long extension to get up between suspension arms etc. It's likely easier with a helper to hold the nuts, but I work alone and didn't have any real problem with those.
I also used the same holes plus an added hole, to bolt the Caddy mounts in my project.

Engine Mount help P1010747

this pic is before the holes were drilled.....Engine Mount help P1010747


Last edited by pila on Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:44 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post by 77mali Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:44 pm

I just bought one of those along with a new 1/2" drive wrench... my extention is about 12" (does it need to be longer?)...I tried every angle imaginable to reach them...do you remember where exactly you lined it up? Did you have the shocks on or off, was thinking that may help?
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Post by pila Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:48 pm

I rarely use 1/2" drive tools, but you may need another few inches on the extension. The 3/8" drive extensions probably fit up through there easier.

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Post by 77mali Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:02 pm

I have an adapter on the 1/2" Universal to fit 3/8" and was using the 3/8" extension & socket. I bought the 1/2" for the bigger stuff like the bolts on the control arms for a bit more leverage in tight spots. I'll keep trying I'm sure it's not impossible. If I could get my hand in there to place a socket, I'd be all set...
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Post by 77ElClassic Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:38 pm

I tried everything on mine as well. In my case, the rubber was broken on the left mount. I ended up cutting the bolts off and dragging the bolts out with a magnet. I had a tool that came with a Reese hitch I bought for my truck. It was basically a small spring, 3/8" in diameter and about an inch long. One end of this spring ended with a straight piece of wire about 30" long. I was able to thread the new bolts into the spring end and then worm the long wire end thought the frame and out the desired holes, thus pulling the bolt through where I needed it.
A lot of guys just weld solid mounts in place though.
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Post by jerry46765 Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:47 pm

Take a short box end wrench and insert it in the slotted hole in the frame where gas line exits the frame. Then use any rachet or wrench to remove the nuts. Gently remove bolts which will be in the box end wrench.

You can also use a combination of 3/8" rachets with u-joints and extensions from underneath though the lower control arm mounts holes.

It can be done.
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Post by 77mali Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:54 pm

I think I'll try again this week sometime. What a pain this is.

Thanks for the suggestions!
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Post by DiscoMalibu Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:39 pm

I think I had the control arms off of my car when I changed the mounts, the rubber was shot. I changed my control arm bushings and ball joints with the control arms out. I think it made it easier to reach up and grab those motor mount bolts. Although I pulled the mounts off of my '80 El Camino because they were like new. That car had all of it's suspension components intact. It's a pain but it's most definately possible. I may have used a 3/8" flex end to get em off along with the right length of 3/8" extensions.
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Post by 77mali Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:18 pm

Very Happy

With all the suspension stuff out of the way it was easy access right through the frame on my back. One of the bolts required a 9/16" box wrench on the inside while turning the opposite side with a 9/16" socket. The other two were easy- direct access though frame holes & a double socket attack- LOL. I have not tried the other side as it is still assembled. Think I'll wait to remove the other mount until after I tear it down.

Engine Mount help P1040517
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Post by 77mali Mon Aug 25, 2014 9:36 pm

Just an update as I recently removed the drivers side mount a little differently this time.

There really is no easy way to get the bottom half out with the suspension stuff in the way. Personally I think it's nearly impossible & what a pain in the butt. I was able to use a small 9/16" offset wrench on the bottom side & just stuck my hand up in the frame while using a 9/16" socket wrench topside.

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Post by SSTOOLMAN Mon Aug 25, 2014 10:35 pm

Maybe I got lucky but when I removed mine I simply spun the hell out of the nuts with a fast air wrench while putting side pressure on the bolts.
They eventually spun off. When I put the NEW bolts back in I snaked them into their holes with a Harbor Freight $3 four jaw flexable pick up tool. Started them by hand and finished them tight with the air wrench again then checked them with a box end wrench to make sure they were tight. Replaced them both in about 20 min.
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