Restoration

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Restoration

Post by BlackChevelleSS on Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:54 am

Frame:
With the frame removed, restoration can start.

Heres the questions that are most common

1. Coatings
-Automotive Paint
-Rust Preventative paint (POR-15, RustEncapsulator, Rustoleum)
-Powder Coating
-Galvanizing

I have tried painting and powder coating. While they all require sandblasting, painting is usually the cheapest route. Powder Coating is nice and real durable, probably the best coating you can get, it only gets on what they spray it at. To prevent rust on the inside, Galvanizing is the way to go. Its one way to guarenttee that your frame will out last you and probably your grandchildren as well. If I had the money and there was a galvanizer nearby I would probably get it done to my frame and suspension parts and then have them powdercoated. (Do Not weld on galvanized metal)

2. Suspension Bushings
-Stock Replacement
-PolyUrethane
-PolyGraphite
-Solid

Bushings are a usual thing to replace while the frame is removed. While changing them out is a pain, they probably need to be replaced. The rubber breaks down and cracks just like tires, you wouldnt run on 30+ year old tires would ya? There are a few options here you can take. Stock Replacement, they last in the general area of about 10-20 years, they are the best if you are looking for that ride quality and tighten up that suspension. Polyurethane and Polygraphite are pretty much the same but the polygraphite is not supposed to squeak. They are hard and will cause the ride quality to decrease but help with the handling and also last longer than rubber. Solid is another option which will kill ride quality and wear quickly.

3. Brake Lines

Replace everything thats rubber, Brake lines, fuel lines, bushings, etc. it all needs it
With Brake Hard lines you can reuse your originals but beware, Brake fluid absorbs moister and will cause the OEM steel lines to rust from the inside. Thats why it is good to have your brake fluid changed every few years. The rubber brake lines will break down and collapse. Thats why its good to change them as well. You dont want any leaking brake lines.
You have a few choices here, Either OEM lines or Stainless Steel, Stainless braided.
OEM lines will give you an OEM feel, and will usually last about the same as the bushings. Upgrading to stainless hard lines will guarenttee they will last and not rust out, (still need to keeping replacing brake fluid tho)
Using Stainless braided flex lines will help add protection to the rubber lines and give a firmer brake pedal feel as they will not expand as much as OEM rubber lines. If going to stainless hard lines and making them yourself, beware stainless is hard to flare, I recommend buying a premade set from somewhere like inlinetube.com.
The tools needed to make your own lines are a double flaring tool set and a tubing bender, (I prefer the 2 handled one over the single as its much easier and less likly to kink the line). Be very careful making your own lines as to not kink them and keep them away from moving and heated items. (The OEM routing will do)


4. Fuel Lines

Not required to replace but most G3 cars have 3/8" fuel lines which will do great for about 500hp, anything over 500hp should have 1/2" line. If you have 5/16" line I recommend to replace it with 3/8" or 1/2" line depending on your engine upgrade plans
Agian you have the stainless or OEM Line options here. If your factory line is kinked or rusted you should replace. You do not have to flare the line but you should use good hose clamps to attach the rubber lines.






More to come, just tired.


Last edited by BlackChevelleSS on Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:20 am; edited 1 time in total

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Re: Restoration

Post by JB2wheeler on Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:23 am

Hey, good start! I can't wait for episode #2. JB
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Re: Restoration

Post by BlackChevelleSS on Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:20 am

updated

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Re: Restoration

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