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Post by Hawk03 on Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:26 am

I was looking into different rust preventive paints and came across Chassis Saver. Has anyone used this product? The process seems a little easier to apply and prep than Por-15, which is always good and its a little cheaper. Also it says you can use any top coat paint if you want. I was reading posts on different forums with experiences with Por-15 and its about 50/50 (as usual). I don't want to spend the money for Por-15 as well as all that time prepping and have the product flake off. I'm going to use it on the frame, underside, firewall and trunk.

http://magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp


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Post by Joe73 on Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:11 am

My chassis has been completed sandblasted, inside and out. I sprayed eastwood internal chassis coating inside the frame to protect it. I then sprayed epoxy primer and then epoxy paint from summit racing. Its called chassis shield. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up501 (2) coats of each and it looks great. Chassis pics below.

As for areas with some rust on them I wouldnt go por-15 anymore. I'm more a fan of zero-rust. http://www.zero-rust.com/ Seems to flow nicer and a little easier on the prep and slightly cheaper.

If your at nice clean bare metal then go epoxy. If not then zero-rust. I have found that por-15 does not hold well to bare clean metal. It likes a little rust to grab. I believe por-15 makes a chemical to put on bare metal which is different than the normal por-15 for rust. I have to say I built a custom atv trailer and then sprayed it with por-15. Didnt hold up well because it was brand new metal.

Just my 2 cents.

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Post by JB2wheeler on Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:59 am

I am impressed by the truck bed liner type paints like Line-x and others. I used the one sold by Home Depot, I think it was Krylon or Duplicolor or other common name products and loved it. I see no reason why something like that can not be used on a chassis. JB
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Post by Hawk03 on Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:05 pm

Thanks for the info guys, the frame looks good Joe! I'm was only planning on using a wire wheel to grind off the rust so I don't think an epoxy is needed. The Zero Rust stuff looks like a good deal. The less complicated prepping the better. Reading about this stuff is a little confusing and not everyone has the same experience. I'll have to visit the home stores to see what the offer.
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Post by pila on Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:10 pm

Yeah Joe, you frame looks great !
After sandblasting, I did mine with Rusty Metal primer, inside & out, then Rustoleum black.
I used my engine cleaning gun, which is a Binks, to blow primer & paint inside.

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Post by Hawk03 on Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:28 pm

After a productive day at work reading and researching rust protective paint, I think I have figured out what process I am going to go with. I'm not looking for a high end result just something to clean everything up, stop the rust and beautify the metal. I am going to grind down the rust and sand it as close as I can to the metal. From what I read you don't need to use any prep chemicals so i will apply the Zero Rust directly to the metal using a brush.
I am going to use Zero Rust on the frame and under the body. These parts I feel need the most protection/preventative. I plan on using Rust-Oleum or something like JB mentioned, on the floors in the car and inside the trunk. I'm not sure what top coat I am going to use on the Zero Rust but it's going to be something that can be found at a home store. Hopefully it will be economical and a simple process.
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:29 pm

For the internals of the chassis I used this http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html Comes with a very cool miniature spray nozzle that puts out a nice fan. Real easy to use.
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Post by Hawk03 on Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:41 pm

Do you think a gallon and a quart will be enough to cover the frame and under the body using a brush?
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Post by Joe73 on Thu Apr 18, 2013 5:54 pm

You dont want to put it on heavy. Just a coating. I'd say a gallon should more than do it.
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Post by Hawk03 on Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:01 am

Thanks Joe. I'm going to be ordering from the link you posted and you must spend $80 for free shipping and a gallon is 79.50 so the extra quart is just for the free shipping. Or maybe I'll get couple of spray cans.
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Post by Hawk03 on Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:47 pm

Has anyone used RustOleum products Rust Reformer or Rust Stripper prior to painting the frame? Not sure if I will be sand blasting the frame or using a wire brush to get the rust off- then I'll be using Zero-Rust on the frame after I strip it.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=363
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=44


Last edited by Hawk03 on Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:48 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added links)
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Post by Hawk03 on Thu May 02, 2013 9:38 pm

Joe, how many cans of the Internal Frame Coating did you use?
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Post by Joe73 on Thu May 02, 2013 9:59 pm

2 Cans
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Post by Hawk03 on Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:30 am

I am going to be getting my frame sand blasted next Wednesday and then have it an epoxy primer put on. Whats the best top coat? I've read where Rustoleum Satin Black is good? Any one use it? I don't think I have time to have any shipped (holiday and weekend) so it will have to be a local pick up.
I have the Zero Rust but I don't think that is supposed to be used as a top coat.
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Post by driveit on Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:21 am

Frame redo is a few years down the road for me, but I can't wait!

Frames looks awesome!
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:41 am

If your car will be driven and not trailered, I'd go with an epoxy topcoat as well. It would be the most durable and easily repairable unlike powdercoating.
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Post by JB2wheeler on Wed Jul 03, 2013 1:22 pm

I am going to use Eastwood's Chassis Black paint. It is expensive, but works real well to stop rust from forming. I used the silver version on a chain link fence that was starting to rust and have had no rust problems since. JB
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Post by Hawk03 on Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:32 pm

Thanks guys! I wanted to get the Eastwood stuff but didnt think I had time to ship it so I bought a gallon of aic enamel from sherwin williams for the top coat. It should hold up good since the car will only be driven in the summer & the stuff is used for tractors & other equipment.


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Post by ratnfested on Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:21 pm

I like Chassis saver. I used it on the wife's Nova. I might use it on the bu unless I see something nicer. I like the frame pics above that looks great. Might go that route.

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Post by Joe73 on Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:43 pm

Summit chassis.saver is.real.good as.well. did my new.frame.with their.epoxy.primer.and then epoxy topcoat. Works.good. btw. I got an email today that eastwood is offering a buy one get one free today on most orders. Just fyi.
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Post by Hawk03 on Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:43 am

The bottom of that Nova looks great. Since I already have it, I'm going to apply Zerorust to the bottom of my car then use the left over frame paint as a top coat. I just need to figure out how I am going to position the body to be able to paint it since I don't have body hoist.

(update to this thread, my painted frame can be found here: http://www.g3gm.com/t7483-painted-my-frame)
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