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4 row radiator conversion

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Tom77
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1973 454 MONTE
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4 row radiator conversion Empty 4 row radiator conversion

Post by McCauley5983 Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:32 pm

Is there anything different between a 3 row and 4 row radiator to install one
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Post by Joe73 Sat Jan 21, 2012 4:26 pm

I think at the most you MIGHT need larger rubber rad mounts but I dont think so. I have a rad, which I believe is a 4 row, and it just bolted in. My rad was taken out of a 500 ci. caddy. I'd just measure the thickness of the end tank where the rubber sits and compare it to yours.
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Post by ant7377 Sat Jan 21, 2012 5:15 pm

I had too use bigger rubber blocks and I even made a little bracket because I could not get it to sit nice and straight. It was a simple piece of flat 1 inch wide flat bar stock bent into sort of a half of a rectangle.I bolted it to the rad support and just let the radiator it self lean against it ,worked fine.
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Sat Jan 21, 2012 5:22 pm

i have a 4 row in my 73 mc. had no problems with it fittin.....
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Post by McCauley5983 Sat Jan 21, 2012 5:25 pm

Ok cool so it should work but got to get it and see what I'm working with
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Post by Malicruiser Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:28 pm

billy-ray wrote:Ok cool so it should work but got to get it and see what I'm working with
Where are you getting yours from?
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Post by pila Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:05 am

I had a 4-row in a Chevelle years ago. It was heavy as hell too. I go with 3-row aluminum now, to save weight on the front end.

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Post by McCauley5983 Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:26 am

I want durability not weight savings
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Post by pila Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:22 pm

I can't complain about durability in aluminum radiators, since my '92 pickup has one, 20 years old next May.
I suppose it depends on what part of the country, since salt is used on roads here (lots of it !) Evil or Very Mad

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Post by McCauley5983 Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:17 am

My biggest concern is the aluminum cracking or warping Arizona heat is very unforgiving
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Post by JB2wheeler Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:05 am

What you have to worry about is that most aluminum radiators are glued together and some brands might come unglued. JB
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Post by 77mali Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:32 pm

1973 454 MONTE wrote:i have a 4 row in my 73 mc. had no problems with it fittin.....

Where did you get it from?

I'd like to maybe upgrade w/ the new motor. Not sure about aluminum or copper (leaning copper though). Can an original 73-77 G3 radiator be fitted to 4 rows if it was born w/ 3? I have a lot of good radiator shops around, I'd like to try & just get it refurbished versus buying online.

Thanks.
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Post by ant7377 Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:47 pm

Paul,you will be fine withthe three row. I have that in my 454 Monte with air and everything and it never gets hot.
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Post by 77mali Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:51 pm

Thanks Anthony...just kinda wondering if it would be of any benefit. I wanna keep the car as cool as I can...I'm going to run the Pi$$ out of it this spring/summer.

It's been so long I have tons of pent-up frustration and my right foot is getting heavier by the day Laughing
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Post by Laguna Budman Mon Jan 14, 2013 11:47 pm

Your tanks are four row (They are on all our cars) and if you can find a good radiator man that still does true radiator work he can make it a four row. These guys anymore just automaticaley (spell) order a new one. Just like everything else it's easier.
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Post by 77mali Tue Jan 15, 2013 7:37 am

Laguna Budman wrote:Your tanks are four row (They are on all our cars) and if you can find a good radiator man that still does true radiator work he can make it a four row. These guys anymore just automaticaley (spell) order a new one. Just like everything else it's easier.

That's good to know- I always assumed they were three unless you had a big block. Thanks!
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Post by thatfnthing Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:13 pm

ant7377 wrote:Paul,you will be fine withthe three row. I have that in my 454 Monte with air and everything and it never gets hot.

Ditto. It's not about the number of rows, it's about air movement. I run a stock radiator but upgraded to the dual electric fans from an LS Camaro, and now I actually have trouble keeping the engine warm enough. When the fans kick on the temp drops 50 degrees in 20 seconds, and I am measuring the temp in the cylinder head.

A stock G3 radiator will work with the largest monster motor if you are getting sufficient air movement through it -- i.e. two fans instead of one, more blades, curved blades instead of straight, etc. In some cases, a thicker core can actually decrease air flow and your money is wasted.
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Post by 77mali Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:22 pm

Food for thought guys, thanks. We'll see how the engine does during break in & go from there.
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Post by pila Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:24 am

For what it may be worth, I have a three-row aluminum in my El Camino project, and it cooled the 507 Caddy engine fine, during cam break-in. I have a 180 thermostat in there, and it never got over 175 degrees during the 2200 RPM break -in.
4 row radiator conversion P1010860

I have the biggest one that will fit in the core support, and it just barely fits in there. Rolling Eyes

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Post by Bruisr Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:34 am

Billyray, I live here in Az. I use an aluminum 2 core radiator and have been for at least 8 yrs. The aluminum saves weight a dissapates heat much better. I've used 3 and 4 core brass rads. and have yet to have any problems with my 2 core. I run 2 electric fans and nothing else. Be sure to use a hi flow thermostat either way.
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Post by 77mali Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:45 am

pila wrote:For what it may be worth, I have a three-row aluminum in my El Camino project, and it cooled the 507 Caddy engine fine, during cam break-in. I have a 180 thermostat in there, and it never got over 175 degrees during the 2200 RPM break -in.
4 row radiator conversion P1010860

I have the biggest one that will fit in the core support, and it just barely fits in there. Rolling Eyes

I've seen similar ones listed on Ebay for under $200 (not bad) just unsure of the workmanship quality. Where did you get yours?
Thanks.
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Post by pila Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:48 pm

Mine is Champion, off of Ebay. It was 229 bucks with shipping. The thing seems to be well built, with good TIG welding on it.
Like mentioned, it weighs a lot less than the old one, and I needed less weight up there, with the Caddy engine swap.
I'll have to wait until this thing is on the road, to get a good opinion of it.

I know the folks who make Be Cool radiators, here in Bay City Michigan, but I can't justify 6 to 700 bucks for that one.

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Post by 77mali Wed Jan 16, 2013 3:34 pm

pila wrote:Mine is Champion, off of Ebay. It was 229 bucks with shipping. The thing seems to be well built, with good TIG welding on it.
Like mentioned, it weighs a lot less than the old one, and I needed less weight up there, with the Caddy engine swap.
I'll have to wait until this thing is on the road, to get a good opinion of it.

I know the folks who make Be Cool radiators, here in Bay City Michigan, but I can't justify 6 to 700 bucks for that one.

Thanks Bill (yeah $700 is a it steep).
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Post by Bruisr Wed Jan 16, 2013 4:08 pm

I bought my radiator for 199.99 and a dual elec. fan with shroud for 199.99 from "speedway motors". They specialize in parts for dirt track cars. Lots of neat things for our chassis, which is common for those race cars.
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Post by 77mali Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:54 pm

Always good to check around. Thanks!
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