Proportioning valve questions

by Joe73 Tue Aug 06, 2013 8:46 pm

Just finished stripping down my galvanized frame and I was taking a look at my proportioning valve. Never had any problems with it, but it is 40 years old. So I got to looking at some new ones and I happened upon an ebay auction from "thepartsplaceinc". They show an all brass one stating the Gm recalled due to iron deteriorating and causing problems. They recommend an all brass one. I've only found brass ones in the aftermarket.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-77-GM-A-G-BODY-NEW-BRAKE-PROPORTIONING-VALVE-/330829978291?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1973|Model%3AChevelle&hash=item4d0700dab3&vxp=mtr

Anyone change theirs out with a brass one? Did everything bolt up the same? Also take a look that the electrical connector on the top. Its different than mine on the 73 and even my spare 73 ones. I'd hate to have to "rig" up the electrical plug on it.

Opinions??

by Joe73 Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:08 pm

Ok, looks like I answered my own question. But here's what I found in case someone else needs to know. Inline tube makes a direct fit proportioning valve, WITH THE CORRECT SWITCH. So you dont have to splice a later model connector on your wiring. This is a plug and play.
http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/PR102.htm

Just FYI

by Mcarlo77 Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:20 pm

I just bought a replacement brass one the other day on e-Bay from Motorcitymusclecar. They are an online sales extension of Inline Tube. In fact, the order status e-mail I just got was from Inline. Anyway, here's what my thinking was on these...Inline sells the brass valve with correct switch for, I think, $85 (it's their pt# PR102). They claim they are the only ones who sell these brass valves with the correct switch for our generation cars. The one I bought is equipped with the incorrect style switch that is commonly available from everyone else and I paid $43 (plus $6 shipping). It's Motorcity's pt# PR100. I also checked with them and they sell the correct switch separately for $13 (plus $3.00 shipping) and it can be installed in this valve. Inline also confirmed that both valves are identical other than the switch. What I wasn't able to confirm is whether my OEM switch could be installed in these new valves. I pulled the switch off an old prop valve and it seems to work just fine. Now, being the cheap A$$ that I am, I figured at best, I could get away with the $43 valve and my old switch. At worst, I'd have to buy the correct switch...but, I'd still show a considerable savings over buying the Inline valve at $85 (plus shipping...which, by the way, they won't specify what that amount is until you e-mail them with a purchase request). I was advised that it shipped today...so, won't see it for another couple of days.

by Joe73 Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:30 pm

Good info. Can you post up if your old switch works/fits? Thanks again. I'd like to go the same route.

by Mcarlo77 Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:07 pm

Be glad to! Rechecked my shipment confirmation and it's estimated delivery date is Thursday.

by JiMi_DRiX Tue Aug 06, 2013 11:49 pm

Inline Tube makes good stuff from what I have read over the years. If its inexpensive, might as well replace it. That would be the proper way to do a restoration in my opinion. Its old, and its vital to safety, replace it!

by Dead Man Wed Aug 07, 2013 1:49 am

just done this to mine a few months back, everything went great and works as should. here is the one i bought, the wire plugs right up just like stock.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1977-GM-Disc-Drum-Combination-Proportioning-Valve-Factory-Street-Rod-/350560569384?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519f09c828

by Joe73 Wed Aug 07, 2013 6:56 am

73ssbb wrote:just done this to mine a few months back, everything went great and works as should. here is the one i bought, the wire plugs right up just like stock.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1977-GM-Disc-Drum-Combination-Proportioning-Valve-Factory-Street-Rod-/350560569384?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519f09c828

How did the plug fit on it? From what I've read that plastic switch is 78 and later and you have to cut your wire. My buddy just did that on his sprint. The one from inlinetube PR102 has the correct switch which is basically just a vertical piece of metal. Here's the pic of the PR102

http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/PR102.htm

The switch can be changed for 13 bucks.

by Dead Man Wed Aug 07, 2013 3:46 pm

well i dont know if i got lucky or what but mine just pushed right on with no problem.

by Joe73 Wed Aug 07, 2013 4:42 pm

Mcarlo77, I just spoke with a buddy of mine who just changed his valve on his sprint. He got the brass one with the wrong switch. He tried to use his stock switch but it has a different length so it didnt work.

Definitely post up if yours works with your old switch. Thanks

by Mcarlo77 Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:01 pm

That doesn't sound too encouraging. I'll let you know...hopefully, tomorrow.

by Joe73 Wed Aug 07, 2013 6:04 pm

Yes, I would still like to know. I just bought a PR102 with the correct switch off ebay for $60. Its an inlinetube model.

http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/PR102.htm

by Mcarlo77 Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:50 pm

Not sure what happened, but I just got my proportion valve and they sent me the PR102 with correct switch. Maybe ran out of the old style valves and felt they needed to honor the purchase? Whatever...I'm not complaining! You'll be pleased to know all line openings and mtg bolt holes line up perfectly with OEM style. Sweeeet!

Proportioning valve questions Propva10

by Joe73 Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:28 pm

AWESOME !! Definitely lucky. Thats the same one I'm getting off ebay for $60. Very cool.

by pila Fri Aug 09, 2013 12:34 am

I've bought quite a few items from Inlinetube. The last was stainless lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve etc.. Also bought the stainless front brake hoses.
No problems with those folks so far....

by michiganlarry Fri Aug 09, 2013 9:47 am

Inline is a good company. I purchased all the stainless brake and fuel lines for my Firebird from them. All look and fit perfectly. They are only a couple miles from my office so I drove over to pick up my stuff. All the lines are bent on computer controlled machines. It was pretty interesting to see.

by Mcarlo77 Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:10 pm

Installed the proportion valve this afternoon and it just slipped into place like it was meant to be there. I've got another issue...seems there is a blockage between the valve and where the line tees off at the rear axle. Lines to the wheels are clear, but I couldn't get the line separated from the flexible hose to see if it was the hose or the line itself. There was a lot of sediment in the bowl of the old M/C and I'm sure some of it made it's way downstream and probably gunked things up.

So, I need some advice on replacing that long line. Anyone have a suggestion other than buying one from Inline? Would like to finish this job this weekend if possible. Auto stores carry anything other than short sections? How about flexible tubing?

by ant7377 Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:18 pm

To get it off cut the line at the fitting and take it off with a socket. I hate brake lives im fighting with one right now.If you can get it off try melting candle wax in its most liquid form onto the fiitting.It will wick into the fitting and let go.

by Mcarlo77 Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:10 pm

If I can't secure the hose end fitting with a wrench while hunching on the steel line flare nut, I'm going to have to cut the end off the line. Cutting the hose end still won't allow me to pull the steel line away from the "pass-thru" hole as the hose fitting has a shoulder that prevents it from passing through the hole in that direction. Lots of fun laying on your back reaching up to the bottom of the trunk pan with extremely limited access and trying to get any torque on the wrenches. I'll give it another try before deciding the only way is to cut the line and replace it.

by Mcarlo77 Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:01 pm

Just thought I'd document a couple of things I learned while installing my new proportion valve and bleeding the brakes for the next person who tackles this job.

1) If your original proportion valve looks like the one on the bottom in this photo ('76/'77 style), you CAN use the original warning switch in your new proportion valve. You can buy the older style Inline pt# PR100 (or, equivalent) valve for considerably cheaper than the newest replacement (PR102 that comes with the correct warning switch) and reinstall your existing switch. Upper valve in photo is from '73-'75 and switch WILL NOT fit new proportion valves.

Proportioning valve questions Brakep10

2) Do yourself a favor and purchase this cheap threaded bleed assist tool that installs in place of your warning switch during brake bleeding. This holds the inner valve shaft in the centered position until all wheels are bled. Then, just replace with the switch. Works like a charm...and, no more screwing around with centering it after bleeding the rears and then the fronts. And, no...air will not re-enter the system when swapped out.

Proportioning valve questions Brakep11

by Joe73 Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:19 pm

Great info. Where do I get the bleed assist tool. Never seen one of those. Does it only go in hand tight because of the knurling? Thanks

by ant7377 Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:19 pm

Do you think you should use that tool whenever bleeding brakes? Think it would make for a better pedal? Where did you buy the tool?

by Mcarlo77 Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:57 pm

Bought it on e-Bay for $10 (free shipping) from PerformanceOnline. It's made of Delrin plastic and yes, you hand tighten it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Combination-and-Prop-Proportioning-Valve-Bleed-Bleeder-Tool-Kit-Brakes-For-Sale-/160856168243?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2573c65733&vxp=mtr#ht_4122wt_917

I've never used one before when bleeding brakes...but then again, I've never done a complete system overhaul and having to purge all that air out of the system. And, from what I was reading, that's what will cause problems with the inner valve becoming off-center...is when you're trying to reintroduce fluid into the lines. Figured this would save a whole lot of time and aggravation over running back and forth from front to back to try centering a stupid valve. BTW, gravity bleeding didn't work worth a crap for me.

Don't know what to tell you about using one to get a better pedal...but, for $10, it's worth a shot.

by pila Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:41 pm

Sounds like a good idea & tool. Simple things sometimes make a big difference don't they ! Very Happy

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