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Are there any drag racers here and is a performance forum a good idea?

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chevellelaguna
bracketchev1221
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dynchel
oldstofty
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Post by dynchel Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:35 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:
oldstofty wrote:Im heavy into drag racing ill have to take pictures of what i just did to the doors for weight savings. swiss cheesed and cut the crash bar out. last year my car went the best of 12.30 at 106 1.68 60ft and 7.75 1/8

Feel free to start as many topics as you want.
Yeah, no one has ever given a detailed description of how to remove crash braces.  By looking at it I'm thinking drilling the spot welds on either end?  And how much do they weigh?  I'm guessing a lot of people are overly optimistic about how much they actually weigh.
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Post by driveit Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:46 pm

I have hear 80 lbs several times, but I have no idea!
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Post by dynchel Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:10 pm

It doesn't look that heavy to me, that's why I ask.
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Post by 77mali Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:20 pm

I remember a post that one member used his engine crane w/ straps to remove his doors. The doors on these cars weigh about 100 lbs. with the crash bars & glass, etc. Maybe a little bit more with the power window stuff.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:02 pm

I would guess 30-40 lbs between 2 doors. But in drag racing every bit helps. The steel doors on my 70 chevelle are completely empty. There is a small lip around the inner edge for the door panel to fasten to.
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Post by Brainstain Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:22 pm

I can carry a door by myself. There is no way that bar weighs 80 pounds. It is way too thin.

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Post by oldstofty Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:24 am

The guy that is doing the work on my car cut the door bar and cut open the end of the door and slid it out and weld the latch area back to the door. i just posted in the project picture thread. door bars are about 25 each but we cut alot of holes in the inner structure to get up to 32 lbs each
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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 2:52 pm

I checked my heads last weekend and they are 882's. Where do they stand in comparison to the 416's mentioned.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Mar 12, 2014 2:58 pm

416 has smaller chamber so it will boost your compression a good bit which.means more power.  882 heads are 76 cc andi beleive the 416 are 58 cc.  Going from a 76cc to a 64 cc raises your compression bt 1.5 points.  So if you have 8.5 now with 76cc you will have 10 with tbe 64.  58 will bump tjat number slightly more but mo problem.  Or if your worried just use a thicker head gasket.  Stock gasket is .041 thick im typing on a phone with my fat fingers. Lol
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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:03 pm

So the 882 head is not a very good performance head then. Are there any other good casting numbers to look out for? My uncle has several motors and sets of heads. I had a set of the old double hump heads, but they did not have the large valves. I think they are damaged now though.
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Post by dynchel Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:04 pm

Joe73 wrote:416 has smaller chamber so it will boost your compression a good bit which.means more power.  882 heads are 76 cc andi beleive the 416 are 58 cc.
Very good, you are correct with your specs.  A side note if you are going to look for #416's the engine I got mine from had a aluminum 4 bbl intake (stamped gm cfm) that's why I gambled on pulling them (and won) Twisted Evil
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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:05 pm

driveit wrote:I checked my heads last weekend and they are 882's. Where do they stand in comparison to the 416's mentioned.

Here's the deal. The first thing that is an issue is the chamber. They are 76 cc heads. That kills compression and perfomance. The 416's are good in that they are like 58 cc. That boosts compression almost 2 numbers. So if you are 8.5-1 with 76 you could be in the low 10's with 416 heads. However, niether head flows really well. The 416 is better, but not great as has been said. Based on what you have, a 64 cc head is not a bad option either. Like a 186 casting head with 2.02 1.60 valves would be a good improvement.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:10 pm

Ive always read that 882 heads are the best of the worst. The ones i sold ran in the low 13's with the small valves. I think its best to just save up and pic up a 64cc set of aluminums with the big valves.
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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:10 pm

So 416s or 186s would be good. Thanks guys. If you know of any others please let me know. I will hopefully get to go on a scavenger hunt this weekend.
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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:12 pm

Joe73 wrote:Ive always read that 882 heads are the best of the worst.  The ones i sold ran in the low 13's with the small valves.  I think its best to just save up and pic up a 64cc set of aluminums with the big valves.

Would love to, but currently I am too far in debt to even put anything back right now. I am getting a 60 over 350 from my uncle and I can pretty much pick my choice of what heads I want if he has them so stock performance is where I am for now. Later on Aluminum will definitely be in the cards.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:16 pm

I'll keep you in mind when I sell my Nova. I have the original 1970 186 casting 1.94/1.50 heads off the Nova. If the buyer doesn't want them I will let you know.
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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:41 pm

Thanks.
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Post by driveit Wed Apr 30, 2014 12:48 pm

Need head gaskets for the Gen 1 350 I am rebuilding. It is 40 over. Any opinions or recommendations. I need to order them today.
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Post by driveit Wed Apr 30, 2014 12:49 pm

What bore size would that be? Stock heads btw.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Apr 30, 2014 1:04 pm

Stock bore on a 350 is 4.00. So 30 over would be 4.030 and 40 over would be 4.040. Why are you going 40 over? Is there that much cylinder wear or damage? Do lots of research.on breakin oils and oil you intend to use normally. Especially if your going to run a flat tappet cam.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Apr 30, 2014 1:24 pm

I like the fel pro gaskets. You can go with the stock replacement gasket 7733pt2 or the performance gasket of 1003. I have used the 1003 gasket on my motors.
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Post by driveit Wed Apr 30, 2014 1:31 pm

It is already 40 over, it mostly just needs new gaskets, but I am going go through it all maybe put in my scat crank and bearings. New oil pump, new fuel pump, etc.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Apr 30, 2014 1:48 pm

I also recommend.the 1003. But u cpuld up the compression by getting a thinner gasket.
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Post by driveit Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:45 pm

What about this cam.  Probably won't get it right now, but a little down the road.
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=12-210-2&Category_Code=

Also I normally use Castrol in my motors, but have no idea what to use for break in oil. Years ago we just used plain cheap oil, which I have found was a bad idea. Any recommendations?
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Post by chevellelaguna Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:04 pm

They make specific engine break in oil now, but it's expensive! Lucas and comp cams are two suppliers. You can get some Shell Rotella , it's for Diesel engines has a higher zinc level in it. I use Castrol as well, it's less refined than other conventional oils , as long as you change it regularly. The cams they make now aren't prone to the problems as they had in the early 90s.
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