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77 Malibu Classic frame off resto

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Post by jerry46765 Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:32 pm

Paul/Wally, you guys have lost me.  

The dash is covered with foam and has a piece of vinyl vacuum formed over it.  Are you removing vinyl & all the foam from the dashboard?  I thought the repair would be grinding back the cracked area, re-foaming with something like spray foam, hot knife/grind/sand the correct shape, and then reapply vinyl over everything.  Landau top foam is in a roll, so are you covering the entire dash with landau foam and then vinyl?  Fiberglass filler, why, over the whole dash?  What if you wanted to keep the speaker holes?  Redrill them afterwards?  How is bracing the back of the dash going to prevent the sun from drying/cracking the vinyl?  Do you have a picture of the bracket/mounting?  Maybe it will make more sense if I saw the bracket.

I looked into building a vacuum forming device a few years ago but I can't reinvent every wheel,  plus couldn't figure out which vinyl to use.  So I am still driving around with a cracked dash...

Thanks -
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Post by 77mali Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:49 pm

Jerry- I didn't use any foam for repairs or the 3m stuff such as was used on the "Blue Collar Buick" rebuild- just reinforced fiberglass filler.  I'm sure a company like Just Dashes would give you a true factory reproduction- correct grain and all.  In my case, with a limited budget for dash reconstruction, I found that the products I used worked well enough to get it back to a smooth crack free surface for the vinyl covering I plan to use.  It will look nothing like the original dash-pad when it's done. I'll take a pic of the reinforcing brace & post it.  I don't have one in my stash.  As far as protecting it from the sun- I'm getting one of those reflective folding things.  It should be fairly decent on it's own though as it is the stuff they use to cover roofs with.  The stuff I bought has the white padding as a "backing" on the vinyl itself and it's not foam just a textile.  It came from Chicago or Michigan...I'll see if I can find the info for the manufacturer.  I got the "Levant" Grain which matches the grain on the "Saddle" top that came with my car.
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Post by jerry46765 Fri Oct 24, 2014 10:58 pm

Paul, so the orange isn't the final surface? It looks good. I never thought of fiberglass overall. My kids wouldn't be able to poke through fiberglass.

But, when you apply the vinyl, you are gluing it on? I thought vinyl was heat shrink or vacuum formed.

I don't think a just dashes resto is worth $1200. If it was perfect and guaranteed never to crack or fade, maybe. But probably not.

Thanks, sorry to butt in on the build thread.
Just trying to understand.
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Post by 77mali Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:04 am

I'm not sure it can be shrunk or vacuum formed but yes it will be "glued & stretched" into place. This particular vinyl is about an 1/8" thick with the backing material. My only concern at this point is getting it to look nice around the vent openings but I plan to go over everything, let it dry/set and then cut it afterward from the back-side. leaving enough material to pull back, get tight and mechanically secure. I'll PM you some pics so not to hog up the thread, unless ratnfested wants to see them also.
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Post by thatfnthing Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:20 am

I'd like to see them, too!
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Post by Wallyuph Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:28 pm

Typically if you are putting vinyl over something us in the Upholstery world pad it first so it will look smooth that why I said glue on Vinyl top pad as you can sand it down flush to the edges where you will be wrapping vinyl around corners.

Now if your filling in speakers holes with fiber glass and your looks like the orange on in photos I would spray rock guard (http://3mcollision.com/3m-rocker-panel-spray-clear-05911.html)
over the entire dash and use SEM paint of the color you want and it will look really close to factory and you can touch it up down the line if needed. we use the rock guard on trim pieces that are scratched or gouged after filling them in. The texture is almost factory.
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Post by 77mali Sat Oct 25, 2014 4:54 pm

I like that idea, it says the product has been discontinued though ... ?
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Post by Wallyuph Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:36 pm

Then try this.
Transtar 4323
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSTAR-Tex-Coat-Chip-Guard-Clear-13-oz-Made-in-USA-TRE-4323-/281207659247?hash=item4179485aef&item=281207659247&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

O riles auto parts sells Trans star products.

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Post by thatfnthing Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:09 am

Wallyuph wrote:I would spray rock guard (http://3mcollision.com/3m-rocker-panel-spray-clear-05911.html)
over the entire dash and use SEM paint of the color you want and it will look really close to factory and you can touch it up down the line if needed.  we use the rock guard on trim pieces that are scratched or gouged after filling them in. The texture is almost factory.

Interesting. When I did my pillar gauge pod I used wrinkle paint to get the texture. Only noticeable if you're looking closely.
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Post by ratnfested Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:03 am

Well hopefully the vinyl shows up now that my tranny is assembled and ready to be painted. That will go into the shop and I have my workbench free to try the dash recovering. I'm gonna work slow and try to avoid wrinkles, if it works I will be so very happy. Otherwise boo hoo. So in the meantime I ordered the LS wiring harness and the tailshaft for the 4l80E that has a mechanical speedo output. Gotta keep chugging along.
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Post by ratnfested Mon Nov 03, 2014 8:07 am

Recovering the dash did not work. It all started well and I think another attempt and I might get it. But I need vinyl without a backing. It stretched real good but in the middle with the big curve I had a fight and it was slowly giving in till finally the backing of the vinyl separated and I gave up. So I glued that crappy dash cover to it and I'll paint it this week. I'm not waiting any longer. I might look for another dash and try again or have it covered then change it next year. Boo. 4 hours wasted. I just won an auction for an LS2 intake brand new unused. Gonna put that on the car in place of that truck intake. This week I wanna paint the transmission and bolt it up. Then maybe some little things like get the latches cleaned up, trunk installed, door handles. Little things I can do after work. Cause soon I have to start running the wiring harness for the engine and I have to decide where the relays and fuse box will go.
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Post by thatfnthing Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:46 am

Got anything like a Joanne's Fabrics store in your neck of the woods? I got some really nice black vinyl with no backing from them when I was doing my console...
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Post by Wallyuph Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:55 am

Did you get the fuel rail and injectors with the intake?
They are different between the truck and the car. The Wire plug to each injector I believe is different from car and truck intake also.
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Post by ratnfested Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:08 pm

I did. Its a crate motor take off. Manifold, injectors, rails. I need adapters for the wiring harness cause I bought it for EV1 injectors and these all use EV6 mostly. But summit has the adapters and its easier then sending it back for modifications.
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Post by Wallyuph Mon Nov 03, 2014 3:48 pm

ratnfested wrote:I did. Its a crate motor take off. Manifold, injectors, rails. I need adapters for the wiring harness cause I bought it for EV1 injectors and these all use EV6 mostly. But summit has the adapters and its easier then sending it back for modifications.

Glad you did your research was just trying to help out if you did not know.
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Post by ratnfested Mon Nov 03, 2014 4:30 pm

I always need help. Smile
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Post by 77mali Mon Nov 03, 2014 6:37 pm

Sorry the vinyl didn't work out for you.
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Post by ratnfested Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:12 pm

Hey for the fender installation I am use to putting the wheel wells in after the fenders are on and aligned. But I wanna try the opposite this time. Has anyone put the fenders on after the wheel wells? Is it simple to do without scratching anything?
Thanks
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Post by Joe73 Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:14 pm

I also put fenders on then the wheel wells. But I have the 73 plastic fenders. Might be a little easier with them since they can flex some.


Last edited by Joe73 on Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:43 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post by Limey SE Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:58 am

ratnfested wrote:Hey for the fender installation I am use to putting the wheel wells in after the fenders are on and aligned. But I wanna try the opposite this time. Has anyone put the fenders on after the wheel wells? Is it simple to do without scratching anything?
Thanks

You could try but most of the inner fender bolts to the outer fender after install of outer, I tried when I painted my Inner ones you may have better luck than I did if you have another person helping you guide them in, But seeing as they bolt to the outer fender I don't see how it could work by yourself
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Post by ratnfested Tue Dec 30, 2014 4:33 pm

I usually do it inners last, but I wanna finish up wiring and do some little tweaks without leaning over the fenders. Oh well. May I'll try it.
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Post by ratnfested Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:49 pm

77 Malibu Classic frame off resto - Page 9 10897796_10204490892025449_170615095116592016_n

Quick update. Wiring is done. I started putting the back end lights, bumper and trim on. I have to get more pics. I'm waiting for top and headliner installation and I will put the interior in. Fuel system is also done.
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Post by ratnfested Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:00 pm

77 Malibu Classic frame off resto - Page 9 Green%20Machine%20Resto%20Dec%202014%202014-12-06%20011

I welded on an adapter to accept the GM fuel pump module. I had to shim the tank down a hair so I attached strips to the tank. Fuel hoses are Aeroquip TFE line with reusable AN6 ends. Overkill yes but they will never rust or fail. Trans lines are the same. I have the dash installed and I wired in a hidden oil pressure gauge which might end up in the center console.
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Post by 77mali Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:04 am

Looks stellar!
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Post by thatfnthing Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:46 am

77mali wrote:Looks stellar!
X2!
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