Cam Selection

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Post by SSTOOLMAN on Sat May 17, 2014 10:34 am

I had a lifter noise when I got my 73 out two weeks ago. Took it to a mechanic buddy and after what seamed like a couple of hrs of lifter adjustment
we came to the conclusion I had 1 bad lifter and two more that were leaking down a little. We tore it down scoped the cam, looked good, we put in all new Melling lifters and chrome molly push rods. buttoned it up, adjusted the lifters broke them in and everything was all good. Put in some short trips and after about 30 mi got a tick... Adjusted the loose one 1/4 turn and it sounded good. drove it home and when I turned into my drive way it was clattering. Pulled the valve cover and the same lifter was loose, about 3/16" up down play, rocker nut was ok, rocker stud was good. rod wasn't bent.
lifter didn't look funky. so I adjusted it to zero play and turned it over... you got it... only about 1/8" valve movement... rolled cam...F@@k!!!!!!!
I was running a 234 244 .488 intake .509 crane cam. it dinoed 371 hp 392 torque. performer intake with a slayer 750 double pumper. most of the power was mid range and top end. Had a rough idle that I hated, started hard hot, might have been over carbureted at low rpms.
That all being said I would like to change things up... go for low end torque with a smooth idle. basically a tire burner, a stop light to stop light runner.
It has a 2400 stall and 3:42 posi . I have a Edelbrock 600 on the shelf I can put on.
Any cam shaft recommendations?????
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Post by 77mali on Sat May 17, 2014 12:40 pm

Assuming you have a small block motor-

I got my new one from Comp Cams. It has a "Noticeable Idle" but nothing like a thumper. I'm still trying to figure out if I'm ok w/ a 2400 converter or if I need to go w/ a little higher stall speed to get the best performance. Good luck.

Camshaft Part #12-238-2 Grind #XE262H-10
Duration @ 0.006": 262° / 270°
Duration @ 0.050": 218° / 224°
Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .462" / .469"
Lobe Separation: 110°
Lobe ID#'s: 5442 / 5201
Intake Centerline: 106°
Max Torque: 415 ft*lbs @ 3700 RPM
Max Power: 348 HP @ 5300 RPM

Comp Cams test results based on use with the following:
Engine Type: Chevrolet 350 Small Block
Bore: 4.040" Stroke: 3.480"
Displacement: 356ci Compression: 9.25:1
Heads: Dart S/R Intake: Edelbrock Performer
Carburetor: Holley #3310 Vac. Sec.
Exhaust: 1 5/8" Headers
Max Torque: 415 ft*lbs @ 3700 RPM
Max Power: 348 HP @ 5300 RPM
Manifold Vacuum: 17.5" Hg @ 800 RPM & 18.5" Hg @ 1000 RPM w/ no load.
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Post by pila on Sat May 17, 2014 1:21 pm

That cam should pull good with that converter and that rear gear. Much higher stall is gonna affect gas mileage a bit...
Of course, if mileage isn't a big deal, try a higher stall. Very Happy 
Seems like there's enough torque there to launch it OK. One of my Elcos had a 2.56 rear with a 406 small block, and a Comp 280 magnum cam. The torque was there, and enough to smoke the rear tires.
A 3.73 rear gear would help your launch too of course, and that's the ratio lots of folks use with an OD trans.
I guess the idea is to have some fun ! Very Happy 

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Post by bracketchev1221 on Sat May 17, 2014 11:28 pm

I think the above cam or maybe the xe 268 cam are where you want to go. And neither should need more than a 2400 converter.
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Post by pila on Sun May 18, 2014 1:00 am

I don't know or have any experience with the XE series Comp Cams. I've only used their old HE and Magnum grinds.

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Post by 77mali on Sun May 18, 2014 7:36 am

Bill- The XE cams are designed to give you a faster response by opening the valves a bit earlier than the HE series.  They also produce more vacuum and are designed to optimize the use aftermarket intake manifolds from what they publish in their online catalog.

Comp cams catalog link (Chevy V8 begins on pg 116)
http://issuu.com/cpg-development/docs/compcatalog/7?e=3767011/2408736

So Bracket you think the 2400 is ok? I was considering a 2600. I'd like to keep my rear 3.08.
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Post by pila on Sun May 18, 2014 10:49 pm

You can try the 2400 first of course, and go from there. I've had two higher stall converters, but got tired of them after a a bit. Don't remember the numbers on those.

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Post by bracketchev1221 on Mon May 19, 2014 6:58 am

At that point in converters, they are so hit or miss that a 2400 and 2600 may actually function the exact same in the car. I wouldn't make a change unless you were willing to go to a 3000 converter.
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Post by Joe73 on Mon May 19, 2014 8:04 am

Even two same stall convertors from.different.companies will act.differently. Has to do with their "flash time". Actual point of when they connect up.
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