control arm relocation brackets

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Post by BBMALIBU on Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:56 pm

So, is the wheel hop issue fixed?

I was under the impression that wheel hop will occur if there is not enough weight in the rear
(example: 1980's trend of jacking up the rear with air shocks).
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Post by dynchel on Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:02 pm

Old school traction bars finally fixed the problem. BTW wheel hop started after installing a powertrax locker.


Last edited by dynchel on Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:12 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added details)
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Post by BBMALIBU on Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:20 pm

dynchel wrote:BTW wheel hop started after installing a powertrax locker.

That's interesting.  
When I swapped the stock 305 to a built 350 my setup was:
Stock th350 trans with TCI 10" convertor
3.73 posi
stock rear suspension: HD rear springs, Monroe shocks, stock control arms (un-modified) that's it.

The car ran 13.77 with street tires (no drag radials, they weren't invented yet), no wheel hop, just a clean burn out.

I wonder if a worn control arm bushing could have caused the wheel hop.
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Post by dynchel on Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:32 am

Nope.  It had (has) all new fabricated control arms.  The uppers are adjustable and have a helm joint in the front.  I tried two different sets of springs, three different sets of shocks, added frame supoorts, and changed the tires (twice).  Nothing short of the traction bars worked.
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Post by Joe73 on Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:48 am

Yes, worn control arm.bushings can cause.wheel hop. Stance also has a big effect on it.
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Post by dynchel on Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:56 am

The bars as well as the tires work too well.  I used to be able to do a decent "hoppy" burnout.  Not I get very little wheelspin, and very minimal hopping.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:17 am

dynchel wrote:The bars as well as the tires work too well.  I used to be able to do a decent "hoppy" burnout.  Not I get very little wheelspin, and very minimal hopping.

So you're saying its time to go to the track?
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Post by BBMALIBU on Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:19 am

dynchel wrote:Nope.  It had (has) all new fabricated control arms.  The uppers are adjustable and have a helm joint in the front.  I tried two different sets of springs, three different sets of shocks, added frame supoorts, and changed the tires (twice).  Nothing short of the traction bars worked.

I am just surprised that you went through all this to fix the wheel hop.
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Post by dynchel on Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:21 am

Me too. I went through every solution I could find. No hop bars came highly rated, but they don't make them for '73 '77's.
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Post by Joe73 on Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:06 pm

I believe DickMillerRacing has no hop bars for our cars.
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Post by Limey SE on Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:39 pm

Joe73 wrote:I believe  DickMillerRacing has no hop bars for our cars.

they do make them But They said they wont sell them separate from the adjustable Upper control arms Part of the Mounting on the rear Heims Joint is used for the no hop bars


http://store.dickmillerracing.com/suspensionaddustableuppercontrolarmswithno-hopbars.aspx

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Post by BBMALIBU on Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:08 pm

I have an old DickMillerRacing catalog and price guide.

When I get home I will check. I remember the catalog lists the No Hop Bars separate from the kits.

And I believe there was only one No Hop Bar used for all the applications in his catalog. If I remember correctly, then the Lakewood and QA1 no hop bars should work.

I will get back later today.
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Post by BBMALIBU on Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:42 pm

The 15 year old DickMillerRacing catalog lists 2 No Hop Bars; 10 bolt & 12 bolt rear ends.

I do not believe Lakewood, Edelbrock, and QA1 specify rear ends.
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Post by mc71454 on Tue Aug 11, 2015 4:36 pm

I have the D. Miller Setup on my '71 Monte and my '70 Chevelle.  There is a specific set for the Gen3 8.5 rear by D. Miller.  Lakewood and QA1 do not have a set for the G3 cars.  

You must use the D. Miller adjustable uppers with the DM No-hops to get the pinion angle back where it needs to be AND for the proper pre-load on the right upper.  Mr. Miller will not sell just the no-hops, as in he "won't physically ship them to you".

The setup is quality A1 and worth the extra $$.  the no-hops have 2 (two) mounting holes for the upper arms and in most cases the lower one should be used.  for lower torque cars the upper hole could be used, but for 400 ft lbs or more, it will be too violent and will introduce too much "anti-squat" and cause a loss of traction and waste of energy.

there is a reason Moser raises the upper ears on their 12 bolts about 1.5" and not 3" like the one size does not fit all design of the Lakewood, and the formerly Edelbrock now known as QA-1's.

I did try all of these parts at one time or another.

I have a video that shows stock versus no-hops on an 11.7x pass in my '71 monte from the early 2000's.
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Post by dynchel on Tue Aug 11, 2015 5:38 pm

I actually ended up using the relocation brackets as traction bar mounts.
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Post by 77cruiser on Wed Aug 12, 2015 10:23 am

Mine was on the verge of hop, just had kind of a slow oscillation going on at launch. This cured it.
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Aug 12, 2015 11:24 am

77cruiser wrote:Mine was on the verge of hop, just had kind of a slow oscillation going on at launch. This cured it.
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control arm relocation brackets - Page 2 Upper%20con.%20arm

I like that bracket. Does it just have one bolt to the cross member? Are the arms adjustable for length? Who makes them or are they homemade? Thanks
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Post by 77cruiser on Wed Aug 12, 2015 11:30 am

One bolt through the bottom & the top bolt is in the original hole. I made the arms, those are 1/2 heims.
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:48 pm

I like it. Great job. I like the idea of lowering the arms on the frame side as opposed to raising the arms on the diff side.
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