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Welcome Keith Seymore

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Post by dynchel Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:37 pm

Welcome our new member Keith Seymore. Nice to have you onboard.
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Post by driveit Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:41 pm

Welcome again, post some updated pics when you can.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Tue Oct 28, 2014 3:39 pm

Welcome Keith. I'm Ray and I'm interested in talking to you about the mailbus from a drag standpoint. I'm a bracket racer myself and have a lot of experience with the chevelles but it would be good to hear the tricks for the 73-77 models and what fits.
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Post by Keith Seymore Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:12 am

Thanks, everyone. I'm feeling very welcome!

I'd be happy to answer any specific questions you might have, here or on a separate post. I don't think I will be able to "free express", though, without some thought starters.

K
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Post by Keith Seymore Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:17 am

You may have seen these in the Popular Hot Rodding/Super Chevy/Chevelle Muscle magazines.  I like them because they are somewhat artistic (Robert McGaffin photos):

Welcome Keith Seymore Chevelleburnout_zps3698251c

Welcome Keith Seymore Chevellefront_zps3da5f05e

Welcome Keith Seymore Chevellerear_zpsd4c96cd6

These were handy, since we ran a couple NMCA meets this year (both Norwalk and the World Finals in Indy):

Welcome Keith Seymore ChevelleMilanNMCA2

Welcome Keith Seymore Chevelle_zpse7213459

Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective) we took 41 photos at Indy and not one was of me or the car!

Embarassed

K
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Post by dynchel Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:31 am

I love the way you car sits. Thumbs up   Did you ever have to deal with wheel hop?   I can tell you don't have that problem now.  BTW i like the old pic with the side pipes.Welcome Keith Seymore IMG_20141001_112145849_zpsyk7vqlul


Last edited by dynchel on Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:45 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added picture)
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Post by driveit Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:31 am

I don't see how people say the 74 tail lights look weird.  It is one of my favorite details on the car.
Welcome Keith Seymore 1310
Welcome Keith Seymore Tkd_an10


Last edited by driveit on Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:02 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by dynchel Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:36 am

driveit wrote:I don't see how people say the 74 tail lights look weird.  It is one of my favorite details on the car.
I agree, '73/74 are my favorites by a long shot.
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Post by Keith Seymore Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:32 am

Here are the infamous side pipe shots:

Welcome Keith Seymore Lapeerdrive

Welcome Keith Seymore Img078

I used to run those in the summer and then take them off and run dual exhausts under the car in the winter.

I recall my sister burned her leg quite badly getting out of the car so do be careful around those things.

Note the "derby" style centercaps in the top shot, and the flat '67 style caps in the bottom pic.

dynchel wrote:I love the way you car sits. Thumbs up Did you ever have to deal with wheel hop?

Thank you; never had a problem with wheel hop in any of my "A" bodies.

My impression is that wheel hop is allowed by a finely set of tuned (or "untuned" in this case) variables including horsepower, traction, control arm bushing compliance, shock tuning and rear axle instant center location. Change any one of those enough to get out of the range and the wheel hop problem goes away.

My car is a product of my late 60's/early 70's upbringing and so uses a relocated instant center, solid bushings in the lower arms and 90/10 drag shocks.

K


Last edited by Keith Seymore on Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by 77mali Wed Oct 29, 2014 1:26 pm

Welcome. Nice Chevelle.
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Post by dynchel Wed Oct 29, 2014 6:57 pm

I gave you some street cred for joining. Twisted Evil
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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:59 pm

Keith, 2 questions are you still using the mismatched rear springs in the car with the stiffer spring in the passenger side, and what did you do to change the instant center?  I am guessing that you modified the upper control arm mount, either front or rear of the bar.
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Post by Dinomyte Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:23 pm

Keith - welcome - those pics with the side pipes, like Dynchel's are what make me want my own. They are awesome!! That's one of the projects for next year. I bet they sound as sweet as they look.
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Post by pila Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:48 pm

Hi Keith...welcome to a great place ! Very Happy Great looking Chevelle ! Mean looking too Beer

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Post by Keith Seymore Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:30 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:Keith, 2 questions are you still using the mismatched rear springs in the car with the stiffer spring in the passenger side, and what did you do to change the instant center?  I am guessing that you modified the upper control arm mount, either front or rear of the bar.

Yes - station wagon spring on the RH side, with the production spring on the LH side.  I also run an air bag in the right spring, usually preloaded at 20 psi.

For the instant center I relocated the upper control arm attaching holes at the forward location (in that main crossmember).  I drilled new holes 1" lower than the production spot.  That moves the instant center from the production location of  119.9" forward/18.1" up from the contact patch to 56.2" forward/15.9" up.  I emulated the location I figured you would get from a set of anti-hop bars.

In "Alston Chassis" speak that takes you from a production setting of 43.7 Percentage of Rise to a new setting of 82.1 Percentage of Rise.

Ray - I'd like to hear more about the setup on your 70 Chevelle, either here or in another thread.

K
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Post by Keith Seymore Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:33 am

Dinomyte wrote:Keith - welcome - those pics with the side pipes, like Dynchel's are what make me want my own.  They are awesome!! That's one of the projects for next year. I bet they sound as sweet as they look.

pila wrote:Hi Keith...welcome to a great place ! Very Happy  Great looking Chevelle ! Mean looking too Beer

Thanks, guys -

dynchel wrote:I gave you some street cred for joining. Twisted Evil

Thank you -

Cool
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Post by dynchel Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:14 pm

Doesn't the side with the  s/w spring sit higher than the other?  I replaced stock replacements with s/w springs and they lifted the car appx 1/2".  Also  like your idea about redrilling the control arm holes, since there are no nohops available for these cars.  I am currently building a custom set of traction bars to stop a bad case of wheel hop.
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Post by Keith Seymore Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:22 pm

dynchel wrote:Doesn't the side with the  s/w spring sit higher than the other?  I replaced stock replacements with s/w springs and they lifted the car appx 1/2".  Also  like your idea about redrilling the control arm holes, since there are no nohops available for these cars.  I am currently building a custom set of traction bars to stop a bad case of wheel hop.

Yes - that's the idea.  The car is preloaded statically so that it comes out more "level" (side-to-side) at launch.  You can accomplish a flat launch (without the preload) by adding an anti-roll bar, provided you have room under there.

I suspect that antihop bars for a '68-'72 A body (Chevelle, GTO, Cutlass) would work or could be made to fit.  I didn't want the additional material above the rear axle housing such that it might interfere with the ride height of the car.

I'm not sure a traction bar will do anything productive.  Traction bars (as I am thinking of it) control the rear axle pinion nose wind up due to leaf spring wrap on cars with rear leaf suspension.  Your pinion nose control is already built in by virtue of the 4 link rear suspension (upper and lower control arms).

K


Last edited by Keith Seymore on Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by dynchel Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:26 pm

This is what they sell for coil spring cars.
Welcome Keith Seymore 20188_zpsxevnbd00
Here's my copy prefitted.
Welcome Keith Seymore IMG_20141022_121458084_HDR_zpstloiikew
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Post by Keith Seymore Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:28 pm

dynchel wrote:This is what they sell for coil spring cars.

I understand that they sell them; that doesn't mean they actually do anything performance wise.

Sad

K
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Post by dynchel Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:39 pm

Now you are starting to concern me.  Everything else i've tried hasn't worked.  I have fabricated arms (with poly bushings), adjustable uppers (with a pivot joint in the foward bushing), relocation brackets welded to the rearend housing, and frame support braces.   I have tried three different spring and three different shock combinations.  I also have a 9C1 rear sway bar.  No combination That i have found has worked, it still hops like the easter bunny on acid. jocolor
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Post by Keith Seymore Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:43 pm

dynchel wrote:Now you are starting to concern me.  Everything else i've tried hasn't worked.  I have fabricated arms (with poly bushings), adjustable uppers (with a pivot joint in the foward bushing), relocation brackets welded to the rearend housing, and frame support braces.   I have tried three different spring and three different shock combinations.  I also have a 9C1 rear sway bar.  No combination That i have found has worked, it still hops like the easter bunny on acid. jocolor

Hmm.  Now I'm concerned, too -

(lol)

Maybe time for a tire change?  Like a street/drag radial?  I'd offer up a set of slicks to try but I'm down to just the one set on the car.

K
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Post by dynchel Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:46 pm

Mine will be done today, so i will (obviously) try them.  My though is under load they will pivot againt the frame and force the rearend down.  That would be the only way (i can figure) that they will work. I've had three different sets of rear tires on it (not drag radials just regular street tires)


Last edited by dynchel on Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:48 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added details)
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Post by Keith Seymore Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:50 pm

dynchel wrote:My though is under load they will pivot againt the frame and force the rearend down.  That would be the only way (i can figure) that they will work.  

Could be.

Standing by for results.

K
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Post by driveit Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:54 pm

Know anyone with a go pro camera so that you could stick it on there and see exactly what is happening. Then maybe you can decide easier what needs to be done to correct the issue. Just wondering and I have no idea, but it crossed my mind. Could a warped frame cause any issues here?
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