Stock wiring questions

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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Tue Feb 02, 2016 5:05 pm

You were right!!!
I gave all the interior parts to trim shop that weekend and look what they found inside of the bench:


Mcarlo77 wrote:P.i.t.a. (pain in the A$$).  And yes...the Interlock System would not allow the engine to start unless the belts were buckled (there was no buzzer).  Particularly annoying was the placing of something on the passenger seat (like a bag of groceries) and not being able to start the car unless you belted it in...lol!  Complaints from consumers became so great that this hare-brained gov't mandate was rescinded.

Is that white connector detachable from the black portion?   If so, I'm guessing it's another cap of sorts for what I still think is the harness that would feed the passenger side seat belt interlock system.

I will try to disconnect. As for the caps, were they an original option at dealer for 74 year for all customers who decided to block the system? Or caps are aftermaket

The last puzzle for now I think is a heater harness.

I know that:
1 is a blower motor "+"
2 don't know what it is
3 blower motor relay
4 wires to resistor or smth called like this, that's mounted on heater box
5 "+" for all harness, but where it must be connected? To horn relay?
6 ground for all harness

Am I right? Thank you
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by thatfnthing on Tue Feb 02, 2016 7:06 pm

demid wrote:The last puzzle for now I think is a heater harness.

I know that:
1 is a blower motor "+"
2 don't know what it is
3 blower motor relay
4 wires to resistor or smth called like this, that's mounted on heater box
5 "+" for all harness, but where it must be connected? To horn relay?
6 ground for all harness

Am I right? Thank you

Almost:

#5 ORN 12ga is power specifically for the blower (others things get their power from the YEL wire) it goes back to the horn relay post (though my diagram says there should be a 30A fuse inline near the horn relay end).

The other end of the ORN is the blower relay (#3 in your picture), from where: 12ga PPL is the power for the blower motor (the loose PPL wire in #4), 18ga BLK goes to a ground (#6 if it's black and comes from relay), 14 DK BLU goes to resistor pack (other loose wires in #4).

The other wires in #4 run back into the cabin (via I'm guessing the white bulkhead connector below #1) for the fuse box and dash controls.

#2 should be the 'ambient compressor switch' which acted as a safety cutoff switch for the A/C compressor.  It should have two DK GRN wires (one with a white stripe) -- the plain one leads back to the cabin controls and the one with the white stripe is supposed to go to the 'thermo limiter', but the connector #1 looks wrong.  Maybe in your year they changed it, in which case it probably goes directly to the A/C compressor.

Hope that helps.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by 73ss on Tue Feb 02, 2016 8:17 pm

#1 goes to another harness for the thermo limiter & then onto the AC clutch.
This link has alot of good reading.  MAD
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by Mcarlo77 on Tue Feb 02, 2016 8:54 pm

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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Wed Feb 03, 2016 2:52 am

Thank you all very very much!
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:19 am

The most curious thing is that we don't have any fusible links here in Russia avaliable for sale at all Shocked  
Need to order FL from USA.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by thatfnthing on Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:40 pm

No, you don't.  There's nothing special about a fusible link.  It's just a plain wire four sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting.  So to protect a 10ga wire, use a 5 or 6 inch length of 14ga wire.  For 12 use 16, for 14 use 18, etc. If you look around on the web, you should be able to find a conversion chart for those sizes to mm2.

The only difference between that and a 'real' FL is that the store-bought FL is supposed to have thicker, fire-resistant insulation.  This is to theoretically allow the wire to burn up inside the insulation -- i.e. without piercing the outside and causing a hazard.  However, google will show you plenty of images where that fails and the melting wire blows straight through anyway.


Last edited by thatfnthing on Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:39 pm

thatfnthing wrote:No, you don't.  There's nothing special about a fusible link.  It's just a plain wire four sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting.  So to protect a 10ga wire, use a 5 or 6 inch length of 14ga wire.  For 12 use 16, for 14 use 18, etc.

The only difference between that and a 'real' FL is that the store-bought FL is supposed to have thicker, fire-resistant insulation.  This is to theoretically allow the wire to burn up inside the insulation -- i.e. without piercing the outside and causing a hazard.  However, google will show you plenty of images where that fails and the melting wire blows straight through anyway.

I thought FL has some special thick insulation and special length...

So if there is nothing special i can use regular wire and add some more insulation.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by thatfnthing on Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:44 pm

Yes.  About 10-12 cm or so will do it.

You can add some wrapping or something to it, but even more important  is to make sure the harness is secure and not rubbing on anything or getting too close to a heat source that would melt it like headers.  Then you should never have a problem.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by chevellelaguna on Mon Feb 08, 2016 7:47 pm

I remember the fusible link burning up on the red wire going to the starter. It burned thru the plastic insulation as described. Replaced it with another from an extra harness I had laying around. Wondering if you were to make your own out of smaller gauge wire, could you wrap the connection in shrink wrap, even a couple sizes, over each other. Shrink wrap wouldn't necessarily catch fire... It would just melt, thus not causing a fire Hazzard. Thoughts?
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by thatfnthing on Tue Feb 09, 2016 12:24 am

It certainly can't hurt. Maybe even some heat shield tape for headers. Can't say for sure, though, if it'll still burn through. Never tried that experiment. Better to not give it an opportunity.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:11 am

Ok, thank you for advices!
Yes I thought of using shrink wrap anyway! But I think it's still flamable, it depends on temperature.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by Mcarlo77 on Tue Feb 09, 2016 1:01 pm

Find some silicone electrical tape. This is a high grade insulating tape. Has a temp rating of around 350-400 degrees. We sold this stuff to the electronic industry for wrapping wires. It's a non-adhesive, self-fusing tape. Not cheap, though.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:46 pm

Ok I will try, thank you!
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Sat Feb 27, 2016 4:15 pm

FL are ready.

Found two more wire ends, but don't know if both have full set of pieces.
I guess one with a spring is a button for glovebox to turn on/off glove box light. Is there smth else needed except spring?
The second is a glove box light, but I think it must have some special lamp or lamp socket.



Am I right?

Thank you
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by 73ss on Sat Feb 27, 2016 4:47 pm

Hi,

the black round one plugs into the lighter housing, The gray one is the glovebox light. It is one piece with a button on one side and a push & twist bulb on the other. Cant remember if the bulb goes on the spring end or the button. black wire is ground for glove box light. It does look like there might be a piece missing..
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by Mcarlo77 on Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:16 pm

You're missing the plunger button/retaining plate on the glove box light (spring end). Bulb goes in opposite end.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Tue Mar 01, 2016 1:51 pm

Thank you for the info! Yes black is a cigarette lighter socket.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Sat Jun 18, 2016 6:46 am

Today, trying to find to what cluster pin Fuel sender wire to connect and what pin brake warning light to connect..

Found this


Is it factory joint of i think ground wires?

Thank you
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Sat Jun 18, 2016 7:53 am

Found where Fuel gauge is hooked up - under the rear bumper where rear tail lights connecter situated.

But why the ground wire that is hooked to Cluster Brake lamp is going to the rear of the car together with the tail light wiring?

Ok


From D to K wires going to the rear

From D to H wires going to rear tail lights connector where H is Fuel

ORG and K wires don't phone anywhere. I guess K is side marker that i deleted

And ORG wire is going to BRake light in cluster and somewhere else to the rear.

Should I hook up brake plug from prop valve to ORG?

Thank you
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by Mcarlo77 on Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:13 am

Well...I can at least confirm those black ground wire connections are factory.

Would have to study schematics to help with other questions.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:48 am

Thank you! I will tape those ground back
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by Mcarlo77 on Sat Jun 18, 2016 6:57 pm

Regarding the proportion valve switch wire...that one is a light brown wire that goes into the engine side firewall junction box and from there continues to the #2 connector of the gauge cluster plug. It also shares a common connection at the junction box with the emergency brake switch wire (also light brown). If you have no cut wire coming from the firewall junction box in which to splice into, I'd splice it to the e-brake wire up behind the parking brake ratchet A$$'y.
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by builtnotbought on Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:28 pm

Mcarlo77 wrote:Regarding the proportion valve switch wire...that one is a light brown wire that goes into the engine side firewall junction box and from there continues to the #2 connector of the gauge cluster plug.  It also shares a common connection at the junction box with the emergency brake switch wire (also light brown).  If you have no cut wire coming from the firewall junction box in which to splice into, I'd splice it to the e-brake wire up behind the parking brake ratchet A$$'y.

All my underhood wires that were free before frame off are used:
1- temp gauge
2- oil pressure
3- ignition
4- el choke, i think that's all.

Prop valve wire is needed to bring "-" to cluster lamp as i understand. So it might happen that i used 1 and 2 wires instead of connecting them to prop valve. Need to check idiot lamps.

Found this wire going to e-brake. Will try splice there.
My #2 connector of the cluster doesn't have pin at all, it's empty.
Were there any cars from factory without brake idiot light?
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Re: Stock wiring questions

Post by ant7377 on Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:12 pm

No all cars had brake light. There is a plug that goes to the parking brake pedal to light up dash light when it is applied
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Re: Stock wiring questions

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