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This SE Now Belongs to my 18 year old daughter now LOL

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Mcarlo77
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Post by bracketchev1221 Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:26 pm

Ok to clarify, the heads may be 165cc. This is the volume of the intake runner, not the flow in cfm. The test data you linked too is a flawed test because #1. It is on a 4.06 bore not a 3.73 bore of a 305. So put air into a bigger volume and it will flow more. #2. It has no exhaust pipe. Again, no restriction on the exhaust port.

I would however believe 2 things quoted. Brezenski heads got 165 cfm out of them at .400 lift. And that they basically stalled flow over .400 lift. Even the quoted test shows no real flow gains from .400 to .600 lift. The big gain from these heads are when they are put on 8.5:1 compression 350's and instantly are 10:1 engines.
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Post by marx3 Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:36 pm

Ohh you meant 165 cc runenr size.. okay.
I agree... the test dont compare to a 3.73 bore.
I am not stating that these heads will necesarily flow 185 cfm, but the test does show that they have decent potential. I wonder what 624 smog heads or 882's flow in stock form. I seem to remember seeing flow results once, that said mid 100's, maybe 160's cfm at .400-.500 lift
the 10:1 compression can only be achieved with a real thin headgasket, like a 0.20" one.
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Post by zot Mon Jan 01, 2018 11:34 am

Sorry...my post wasn't very clear about that.
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:42 pm

I wouldn't mess too much with head gasket thickness unless you measure how much your piston is in the hole. And take into account whether the block has been decked or not. Any deviation from .040 can cause detonation problems and you might not be able to get your timing where it needs to be for max performance. .040 is where you want to be, or very close.
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Post by marx3 Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:47 pm

didn't these engine come with pretty thin steel gaskets from the factory?
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:53 pm

Fel Pro site says this for the 1977-1993 305 head gasket. The 8510 PT has an opening size of 3.855” and compressed thickness is approximately 0.040”. .040 is what to shoot for imho.
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Post by marx3 Mon Jan 01, 2018 3:39 pm

the "generic" headgaskets are almost always .039" or .040", but that don't mean these engines came with that compressed thickness from the factory, do you think?
I do belive I read somewhere ( from a trustworthy source ), that the compressed thickness of the head gasket in these old engines, was about .020" from the factory.

I have been diving into Pontiac and Oldsmobile stuff previously and for all I remember, the deck factory deck height on these two brands' old V8 engines, was also about 0.020".
I think there is reason to believe, that the factory deck height would be about .015-.025" in which case a .040 head gasket would put quench out of scale.
I measured my own stock 1979 LM-1 350 and the piston ( on one cylinder, only measured one ) WAS about .015" in the hole.
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:07 pm

Only way to tell is to measure and then order the correct gasket to make .040.
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Post by marx3 Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:09 pm

ohhh you mean to hit .040 quench? I think I misunderstood you the first time around :-) I thought you meant, that a .040 gasket should always be used no matter what
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:14 pm

Oh, ok. Yes, piston in the hole measurement plus compressed gasket thickness should total .040 . Thats a best case scenario.
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Post by marx3 Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:24 pm

totally agree. When I build my 350 with those 416 heads, I could either go 10:1 compression ratio with a quench right around .040" or go more pump gas friendly 9.5:1 and about .060" quench.
Went with 10:1/.040" quench and the engine seems happy.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:32 pm

.040 is also the minimum piston to head clearance you want with a steel connecting rod to prevent piston to head contact. I check my engines with no head gasket for piston contact. If it just clears I know with the .039 gasket I'll be good close to 8000 rpm.
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Post by Limey SE Tue Apr 17, 2018 3:29 pm

Well Now Winter is Almost over I HOPE anyways..... Have The Cam Kit thanks to some great Advice from Joe73 yet again ( you need to open a speed Shop Joe) LOL

Can not wait to get Busy on this SE yet again

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___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
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Post by Roadcaptain S3 Tue Apr 17, 2018 8:14 pm

Sold it. Working on the 73
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Post by Limey SE Tue Apr 17, 2018 8:22 pm

Man really ok How it coming then

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Post by Limey SE Tue May 01, 2018 7:00 pm

Well Finally got to be able to get the tails on that I got from Mcarlo77 aka Steve They look so soooooo much better and clearer

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___________________________________________
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Post by Mcarlo77 Tue May 01, 2018 7:26 pm

They look great! Glad I saved them from the crusher for 'ya.
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Post by Limey SE Tue May 01, 2018 7:44 pm

what about the chrome trim around lights any leads ?

___________________________________________
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Anthony
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Post by Limey SE Wed May 09, 2018 9:51 pm

The SE is heading for open heart surgery Sunday night Monday morning the only thing that will remain stock in motor is Bottom end rest will be bigger better with alot research from trusted friends on the choice, THE PIC is of Cam card from front to back details...... from 2 to 4 Barrel, Edel Perf RPM Manifold, 650 Jetted quickfeul carb, stock (for now) converter, longtubes, into 2.5" exhaust into 50 series flowmatsers out the back.... right now have 2.56 one wheel wonder but switching to posi 3.08 gear, Then onto Interior Floors are getting welded in Finally carpet is en route as I type this as is Head liner

Joe Thanks for the endless questions with this Build and never complaining always had time for the questions. Wished you were closer Man would sit down and chew your ear off over some coffee ....

About ready for all one color Exterior also till I can get it pro done ....... Missed out on a parts car from member here sold it to a buddy instead OH well win some lose some ... Move on with what you have and get er done right ?

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___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
Anthony
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Post by Limey SE Sun May 13, 2018 9:41 pm

YAYYYYYYYY SE gets hooked up tomorrow to head on down the road for floor R/R Man so close to June 2nd Motor has to wait till after the show ARRRRGGGG Not enough time to pull and get it back together in 12 days

___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
Anthony
Limey SE
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Post by Limey SE Mon May 14, 2018 12:49 pm

OHHHH MYYYYYYYYYYYYY

SE IS GONE MY YARD LOOKS NAKED

This SE Now Belongs to my 18 year old daughter now LOL  - Page 6 32399210

___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
Anthony
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Post by Limey SE Mon May 14, 2018 12:54 pm

Best Improvement he said to yard in a Long Time LOL



This SE Now Belongs to my 18 year old daughter now LOL  - Page 6 32468410
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___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
Anthony
Limey SE
Limey SE
Management
Management

Street Cred : 97

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Post by Limey SE Tue May 29, 2018 10:16 pm

Well long story short welder bailed on me decided he didn't want to do floors anymore AFTER he cut floors out wtf.....
Anyways fast fwd alot of talking to some friends and body guys since I CAN NOT WELD  I used 3m Panel bond I think it turned out good for first time floor work


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___________________________________________
1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
Anthony
Limey SE
Limey SE
Management
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Post by Mcarlo77 Tue May 29, 2018 11:32 pm

I think it looks good, Limey! I'm kind of in the same boat with no welding skills and a passenger side patch needed on the Laguna. Have contemplated doing this myself...but, been hesitant due to all the negativity I keep reading about from the welding purists. Did you enlarge what was already cut out and overlap an inch or so all around? Or, just lay down the full size replacement panels over what was already cut out? What about the underside...did, or are you going to use seam sealer at the overlap edges to seal them? What is the purpose of the spots of epoxy around the perimeters?
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Post by thatfnthing Wed May 30, 2018 9:23 am

I agree -- nice job! While welding might be optimal, it's not always an option. There are other satisfactory ways of addressing rust in a hidden, non-structural area like the cabin floor. Unless you're planning to enter it at Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance, panel bonding is perfectly fine.
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