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Drum Brakes

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Tom77
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1973 454 MONTE
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Post by ant7377 Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:34 pm

How do you guys like to adjust your drum brakes when first replacing them ? Do you have the adjuster all the way in ? Or just a little out if so how do you know it far out enough?
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Post by Joe73 Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:32 pm

I thread them all the way in after they're cleaned and I'm reassembling. Then I just spoon them, with the tire on, until I have some slight drag.
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Post by Tom77 Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:37 am

Drum Brakes 779362
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Post by Mcarlo77 Thu Dec 22, 2011 11:28 am

"Ditto". As added insurance, I always back down the driveway a few times while hitting the brakes kind of hard to allow them to self-adjust to their proper position.
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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:06 pm

I don't think I have any back brakes right now. I really want to redo all of my back brakes, but I have no idea when I need. What parts are involved in refurbishing rear drum brakes.

Also are there any upgrades that you can do to a drum setup on a 74 Chevelle? Thanks in advance.
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:14 pm

when i put in the posi i replaced everything. seals,cylinders,spring kit,shoes. i put it all together but left shoes loose,than put on wheel and tighten till a drag was present. needless to say i can still power brake it......................oooooops GoFast 
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:15 pm

Install a new spring kit and adjuster if the star is chewed up.  Spray off the backing plate real good with some brake cleaner.  Lube the shoe contact points with some synthetic grease (just a small amount).  
When installing the shoes, the show with the longer braking material goes towards the rear of the car.
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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:20 pm

Is there anything that you can do to make the drums sportier?
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Post by pila Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:27 pm

The only drum up-date for those 9.5 inch brakes would be the '76 & '77 11 inch type.
But the axles have to be removed to replace the 9 inch backing plates with the 11 inch type.
In my opinion, the 9.5 are OK if they are maintained, and the front discs do most of the stopping anyway.
And since a new hard ware kit is fairly cheap, you can toss all the rusty springs etc for about 10 bucks when doing a rear brake job.

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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:34 pm

Ok, so can someone list for me exactly what I need to look for to rebuild the entire drum brake setup. It seems that everytime I go to get parts and say I need everything that is needed to complete (insert project here) they forget something. I want to be prepared as it is about a 60 mile round trip if they forget something and I have to go back.
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:51 pm

Ok, here you go.  You will need.  Just verify if you have the 9 1/2" or 11" brakes.  You should have the 9 1/2".

1.  Brake hardware kit.  Rock auto has a bunch for only $1.50  You only need one kit because it does both sides.
2.  Brake adjusting screw, 2 are needed.  $2.00 each at rock auto
3.  Maybe (2) wheel cylinders.  They are $3.00 each at rock auto.
4.  Self adjuster repair kit (doubt you need them) but you would need (2) kits and they are $5.00 each at rockauto.
5.  Drums (2 needed) Wagner and Bendix are $27.00 each at rockauto
6.  Brake shoes, Wagner Quickstops are $13.00 at rock auto.  
7.  Some synthetic grease
8.  Brake cleaner
9.  Rags
10. Spare time.  

I think you can get the COMPLETE JOB (everything new) for about $100-$125.
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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:58 pm

Thanks. Now to gathering parts.
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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:02 pm

Do the drums wear? Do they need replacing or just cleaning and painting?
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:06 pm

Yes they do wear. And you can even have them "cut" or resurfaced if they are in good condition and not above safe max. diameter.
If you have a place local to you, that is an option. But if you want everything on hand ready to go, then you have to buy everything.
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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:15 pm

ic. So it it kinda like checking a rotor. Just check for warpage and grooves in it?
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Post by dynchel Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:18 pm

I would get new drums (they are cheap enough) plus after a quick cleaning, they are ready for a coat of paint.  I like vht caliper paint.  There are special tools to make the (spring) installation easier, they are pretty cheap if you don't have (or can't borrow) them.
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Post by driveit Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:42 pm

My uncle probably has them and hopefully with help with the install. I have never even saw what they look like on my car.
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Post by pila Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:54 pm

Best way is to do one side at a time, so you can look at the other side for a mirror image for assembly of the new stuff. That is if you don't have a manual with pics or drawings of the brake installation.
Study it a bit, so you know how the self adjuster etc works......

If you decide to replace the wheel cylinders, be prepared to get the brake lines removed from the wheel cylinders. I usually heat the nut with a torch, and then use a wrench to go back & forth to work the rust loose between the line and the nut (end ) A line wrench is the best way, to keep from rounding off the tube nut, and if it wont break loose with the wrench, use Vise-grips to break them loose, before heating & using wrenches.

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Post by dynchel Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:01 pm

A trick I learned was if you have to heat the flair nut (because it wants to twist the line) while its still hot (and expanded) spray some penetrateing oil on the line where it enters the nut, then work it back and forth like bill said.  Good luck.
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Post by Tom77 Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:56 am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FYRwfKNHxw

Everything you ever wanted is on youtube. Thats what I tell my wife. This is a newer year but drum brakes have changed very little over the years. Rock Auto has all the parts cheap just replaced all mine last winter.
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Post by driveit Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:37 pm

Ok, so when I was working on the wheels and exhaust Monday I noticed the wheel cylinders are leaking. I and going to try to start getting the parts to fix them this week. My front brakes got a little hot this morning coming in and it scared me a bit. I think it is definitely time to get the drums fixed!
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Post by driveit Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:42 pm

What size are the drums on a 74?
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Post by Tom77 Wed Jul 23, 2014 1:51 pm

Bolts/Holes Bolt Circle Nominal Dia Maximum Dia Outside Dia Depth Height
5 4.75" 9.50" 9.56" 11.46" 2.42" 2.96"
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 18038500, 19171696


Got this off the rock auto site.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Jul 23, 2014 2:19 pm

Drums are either 9 1/2" or 11". Should be 9 1/2". 11" are usually for montes and wagons. I just bought Raybestos professional grade wheel cylinders for $3.83 each.
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Post by 77mali Wed Jul 23, 2014 2:40 pm

ant7377 wrote:How do you guys like to adjust your drum brakes when first replacing them ? Do you have the adjuster all the way in ? Or just a little out if so how do you know it far out enough?

I would go this far out- LOL

I plan on doing this upgrade. Summits prices are about half of what some are charging.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/summit-racing-rear-drum-to-disc-brake-conversion-kits/drivetrain/rwd/year/1977/make/chevrolet/model/malibu?N=327879%2B4294948699
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