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74Malibu383 Build

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Post by 74Malibu383 Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:38 pm

For some reason, the engine was running a little warm this summer in anything over 110 degrees. Imagine that...
The weird thing is the problem came in at highway speeds, not stopped like you would think. Anyway, I did a little experimenting with a couple different cardboard templates. Bottom line, they were worth 10 degrees. I was going to attempt the sheet metal work myself, but decided, it would probably take me more time and I would scrap more metal than it would be worth. So, I called up a good friend and this is the result. I still need to either paint or powder coat these pieces, but I'm super happy with how they came out.
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2010
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Post by JB2wheeler Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:22 pm

I like it. I thought about doing the same thing, but never got around to it. How do you spell lazy. JB
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Post by Wallyuph Mon Sep 09, 2013 4:48 pm

On my 56 Chevy it has a 69 nova front end grafted to the stock 56 frame at the fire wall. I had the same problem of over heating at highway speeds. They have a really short grill and after looking at it we found the air at those speeds was drafting below the radiator. When I had a stock radiator in it sat lower that the Be-Cool cross flow does.  I put a piece of Aluminum tread plate in the gap below radiator and lower shroud. Never got hot after that. 74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 <a href=74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Dcp01610" />

Its hard to see but only photo I have look at bottom of Radiator.
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Post by 77mali Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:27 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:For some reason, the engine was running a little warm this summer in anything over 110 degrees. Imagine that...
The weird thing is the problem came in at highway speeds, not stopped like you would think. Anyway, I did a little experimenting with a couple different cardboard templates. Bottom line, they were worth 10 degrees. I was going to attempt the sheet metal work myself, but decided, it would probably take me more time and I would scrap more metal than it would be worth. So, I called up a good friend and this is the result. I still need to either paint or powder coat these pieces, but I'm super happy with how they came out.
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2010
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2011
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2012
Funny that cars do things like that...running perfect and then all of a sudden something changes. The sheet metal work looks really good.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:38 pm

Decided to go with Powder Coating. Pretty happy with the match on the paint. Ended up getting the support bars coated too. I painted them when I did the engine compartment, but can't seem to stop scratching them. Hopefully the new coating will hold up better.
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2013
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Post by driveit Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:00 pm

Beautiful! I dream of having my car look as good as yours.

I am going with a 2 inch drop spindle in the front with 18x8s or 18x9s and a 1 inch lowering spring for the rear with the same size wheels. Tires are going to be 275/35R18s. Think that will get me a similar stance and fill up the wheel wells?
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:11 pm

Thank you.

I think I have more of a 2-3" drop but it's hard to say. I've got coil-overs on all 4 corners. As far as the tires go, you can definitely fit bigger in the rear without any other modifications, but if you are going for the same size all the way around, that should work. Keep in mind, a low profile 275 on a 8" rim is going to have quite a bit of bulging on the sides. IMHO - It doesn't look right. I feel I can say that because I've tried it on my fronts before going to a 10" rim.
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Post by driveit Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:18 pm

I think I can get the wheels I am wanting in a 9 inch wide version. I am just wanting a thinner side wall with a wider tire.
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Post by 1973montec Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:52 pm

Thats a good idea.
Thumbs up 
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:32 pm

I'll start this off with a huge plug for Eastwood paint products. I've now used three different cans of spray paint from them, and they are all amazing. I swear if they could widen the nozzle spray you could paint your damn car with rattle cans....

My Battery exploded a few years ago and really jacked up my radiator tank. I decided to rip it out this weekend to clean it and paint it black to go with the rest of the engine compartment.
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2014

Started by sanding with 600 grit then 1500 grit. Then I used some wax and grease removal, and then hit it with Eastwood's Aluminum Prep:
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2015



Wiped it down one more time with the wax and grease removal stuff and sprayed it with Eastwood's Radiator Satin Black. Photos don't do it justice. The paint is super nice.
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2010

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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:40 pm

That came out looking really nice. You definitely put some effort into that. On another question, the headers you have I looked into them myself. Can you run a 168 tooth flexplate and stock starter in there?
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:43 pm

You can run the big flex plate, but you can't run the stock starter, or any standard mini-starters for that matter. Has to be the PowerMaster (or similar) that you can clock to get it closer to the block.

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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:45 pm

Radiator looks awesome.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:49 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:You can run the big flex plate, but you can't run the stock starter, or any standard mini-starters for that matter. Has to be the PowerMaster (or similar) that you can clock to get it closer to the block.

74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 2012-010

Oh well, I have a brand new TCI starter from the Chevelle from years ago. I don't think it will work. I think it is this one
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-351100/overview/
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:51 pm

Yeah, that won't work. I had one like that too and had to go with the PowerMaster to clear that darn primary tube.
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Post by driveit Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:55 pm

74Malibu383, I know you have probably been asked this before. Do you have any cornering issues with the ride height/tire and wheel size? What is the back spacing or offset on your wheels? I am not sure of which term to use there.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:00 pm

Quite a few times.... Smile


Originally I went with:
19x8 with a 5" and 20x10 with a 5.75" with 275/35/19’s and 315/35/20’s

You do have to subtract 1/8" backspacing for the Baer Brakes on front and rear if you're not using them.

The 275's on the 8 didn't look that good up front. They cupped over the rim pretty bad. So I sent the front ones back in and had a 19x10" rim built for the front. I went with 5.25" of backspacing on the front. Turns out they could have moved inwards another 1/4" to 1/2" as I am really close to rubbing the fender. However, it DOES NOT RUB. Not sure if it's the suspension or what, but no matter what I do, I have no issues.

If you're ever unsure on the backspacing and think you could use a little more, then do so. You can always run a spacer between the hub and the wheel to bring it back outside. You obviously can't go the other way..... Should have taken my own advice.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:55 am

My new fans showed up yesterday from Cooling Components. Took me a while to cut the fan shroud down to fit and figure out a way to mount them since they don't come with any type of mounting brackets. Was able to tap directly into the top of the radiator, but not the bottom. Ended up modifying a bracket I had, and used two 1/4-20 rivnuts and some bolts for the bottom. Hoping the new set up will cool better than the old one. Photos attached of both new and old.

Old set up:
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2016

New set up:
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2017
74malibu383 - 74Malibu383 Build - Page 3 Img_2018
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Post by Wallyuph Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:24 pm

What brand and part number did you end up going with for the new fans? Is you aluminum radiator a stock size replacement? I'm looking for dual fans for my 73 upgrade. I have the Flex-A-Lite 420 set up on the laguna and its fits pretty good.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:53 pm

I went with part number:
CCI-1228 | 18"H X 30"W
The measurements are the outer dimensions of the shroud. These ones barely fit, but they look great and glad I went with the biggest ones he had.

I'm pretty sure it was a stock replacement, but it's been 5 years. The core of my radiator measured out at 27.5" x 17.5" if that helps at all?
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Post by Wallyuph Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:47 pm

Thanks about the same in price as the Flex-A-Lite 420 set up I'm looking at.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:01 pm

I'm sure either one will work for you. I am very happy with the fitment of the ones I just put in. For what it's worth, David at Cooling Components is pretty adamant his shroud design is superior to some of his competitors. Then again, it's his company, so....  Shocked 
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Post by 77mali Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:33 pm

Those are pretty sweet. What thermostat temp rating are you using w/ your set up?
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Post by chevellelaguna Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:07 pm

Awesome set up! That should be more than enough cooling capacity! Will have to iron out my ride, temps as high as 270F on an 80F day! Scary!
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Post by 74Malibu383 Thu Mar 20, 2014 11:23 am

77mali wrote:Those are pretty sweet.  What thermostat temp rating are you using w/ your set up?
Thanks. I'm running a 190 degree thermostat right now.

chevellelaguna wrote:Awesome set up! That should be more than enough cooling capacity! Will have to iron out my ride, temps as high as 270F on an 80F day! Scary!
Thank you. I hope it's enough. The temps really started creeping up once I increased the boost. I only have problems when it's over 105 degrees outside and I'm driving it pretty hard.
As for your ride, those are some serious temps!!!!!! I get nervous when it hits 220! Can't even imagine 270!!!
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