94-96
+4
Biomedtech
1973 454 MONTE
77mali
ant7377
8 posters
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94-96
by 1973 454 MONTE Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:02 pm
SS impala rear sway bar fits our cars,right? I just bought one for 25.00.thinking bout a 1 1/4 front bar also. I think it came off a late 70s Z28.
Am I close?
Am I close?
1973 454 MONTE- Donating Member
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Re: 94-96
by ant7377 Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:47 pm
The camaro bar will fit .I dont know about the other one.
ant7377- G3GM Addict
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Re: 94-96
by 77mali Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:00 pm
Our 73-77 cars were 7/8" diameter FYI....I saw some guy on craigslist using search tempest has a bunch in Michigan.
77mali- Donating Member
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Re: 94-96
by texan01 Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:53 pm
Yup, bolts right in like belonged there to begin with, if you've got all the brackets from the Caprice. You might need to drill holes in the trailing arms if your arms don't have the holes already.
I've got one on the back of my '77 sedan.
I've got one on the back of my '77 sedan.
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Re: 94-96
by 1973 454 MONTE Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:27 pm
looks to be the same. guess that goes on the posi later.
when i get settled at the new house, i plan on taking monte completely apart again,and painting the caprice.
also found out the GF has a friend of a powder coater.... 
when i get settled at the new house, i plan on taking monte completely apart again,and painting the caprice.
also found out the GF has a friend of a powder coater....
1973 454 MONTE- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 36
77mali- Donating Member
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Re: 94-96
by texan01 Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:04 pm
That pic is of the rear bars, the V shaped one is the OE for the 73-77 cars and the M shaped one is OE for 77-96 B cars.
bolt in like they belong there to begin with.
Here's mine with the 96 9C1 rear bar on it. It's kind of dark but you can see it in place.
bolt in like they belong there to begin with.
Here's mine with the 96 9C1 rear bar on it. It's kind of dark but you can see it in place.
texan01- G3GM Member
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77mali- Donating Member
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Re: 94-96
by texan01 Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:43 pm
77mali wrote:The B body one looks better
I agree! I had the OE style on mine, and it seemed to catch every stray plastic bag and even Mom noticed it and thought something was broken on it. of course she'd had been looking at it for 20 years without a rear bar before I ever added one to it.
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Re: 94-96
by 74laguna Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:44 pm
if you use the big bar you need to weld the mounting plate to the control arms or the arms will crack at the mounting plate bolts. Gm recalled b bodys with the rear bar to replace control arms with updated arms without the mounting plates
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Re: 94-96
by texan01 Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:40 pm
If you are going to use the stock 90's trailing arms, you are better off getting fully boxed arms. The design of the '95 car I got my rear bar off of, would allow the arm to flex even more than the 73-77 style. Two long bolts with a square washer and a spacer is what the update consists of, that go from top to bottom per each side.
Boxed trailing arms are strongly recommended if you are going to road race it.
To me the 73-77 style is much stronger, and stiffens the arms up more. plus if you really wanted to, you could weld in the bracket. OPG sells a bracket that fits in the channel for 64-72 cars that works in ours as well that you can use to weld in and make a boxed arm.
The cracking problem was also found in the 64-72 cars and the 78-87 A/G bodies with the side-mount rear sway bars. It's a problem with the basic design. I've not run across very many cars with cracked trailing arms, those that I did run across were ex police/taxi cars.
I put mine on to eliminate the lateral waddle over bumps, I got tired of the hula hoop dance it did on bumps, it didn't make a huge difference in body control for turns. It mainly acts as a panhard rod by triangulating the lower trailing arms.
Boxed trailing arms are strongly recommended if you are going to road race it.
To me the 73-77 style is much stronger, and stiffens the arms up more. plus if you really wanted to, you could weld in the bracket. OPG sells a bracket that fits in the channel for 64-72 cars that works in ours as well that you can use to weld in and make a boxed arm.
The cracking problem was also found in the 64-72 cars and the 78-87 A/G bodies with the side-mount rear sway bars. It's a problem with the basic design. I've not run across very many cars with cracked trailing arms, those that I did run across were ex police/taxi cars.
I put mine on to eliminate the lateral waddle over bumps, I got tired of the hula hoop dance it did on bumps, it didn't make a huge difference in body control for turns. It mainly acts as a panhard rod by triangulating the lower trailing arms.
texan01- G3GM Member
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Re: 94-96
by 1973 454 MONTE Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:16 pm
I'm using my control arms. Already have the wimpy bar. Thanx guys
1973 454 MONTE- Donating Member
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Re: 94-96
by Biomedtech Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:09 pm
Or go with Spohn rear trailing arms for $195
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1973-1977-GM-A-Body/Suspension/Rear-Lower-Control-Arms/1973-1977-GM-A-Body-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-Boxed-with-Poly-Bushings.html
Definitely cheaper than the overpriced Global West or Detroilet Speed stuff
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1973-1977-GM-A-Body/Suspension/Rear-Lower-Control-Arms/1973-1977-GM-A-Body-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-Boxed-with-Poly-Bushings.html
Definitely cheaper than the overpriced Global West or Detroilet Speed stuff
Biomedtech- G3GM Member
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Re: 94-96
by Limey SE Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:11 pm
74laguna wrote:if you use the big bar you need to weld the mounting plate to the control arms or the arms will crack at the mounting plate bolts. Gm recalled b bodys with the rear bar to replace control arms with updated arms without the mounting plates
I am not understanding this I put it on my car and it used the exact same set up as the 73-77's have
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Re: 94-96
by 74laguna Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:46 pm
if you weld the mounting brackets to the control arms they wont crack. the big bar puts alot of pressure on the 4 5/16" bolts that hold the plate to the control arm
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Re: 94-96
by Limey SE Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:28 pm
Welding these in you mean they fit so dam tight already had to lightly hammer them in, I dont know how they would crack ?
Limey SE- Management
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Re: 94-96
by texan01 Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:04 pm
around the side bolts in the trailing arms.
Like anything else on the car, fatigue will crack any metal.
Heck mine has a crack in the hood right up front on the ridge.
Like anything else on the car, fatigue will crack any metal.
Heck mine has a crack in the hood right up front on the ridge.
texan01- G3GM Member
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Re: 94-96
by dynchel Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:59 pm
I have a 73 Monte Carlo sway bar on my 74 chevelle. It measures 1 inch in diameter. Is the extra quarter of a inch you get with the trans am bar really gonna make a difference? I know the original bar I took off was smaller, and the only reason I switched it out was I had the larger bar from a the Monte Carlo I parted out. I believe the Monte Carlo had some kind of handling package as it had a one inch front bar, a rear bar and 7 inch rallys.
I believe the Monte Carlo had some kind of handling package as it had a one inch front bar, a rear bar and 7 inch rallys. 
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Re: 94-96
by texan01 Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:01 am
dynchel wrote:I have a 73 Monte Carlo sway bar on my 74 chevelle. It measures 1 inch in diameter. Is the extra quarter of a inch you get with the trans am bar really gonna make a difference? I know the original bar I took off was smaller, and the only reason I switched it out was I had the larger bar from a the Monte Carlo I parted out.
From what I've read, the torsional rigidity of the bar is exponentially larger the bigger the diameter gets. So say a 15/16" bar (what I've got) is a factor of 1, your 1 inch bar is a factor of 2 and a the 1 1/4" is a factor of 3.
your car most likely has the F41 handling package or the FE3. Mine was a base car, with no rear bar, and the dinky front bar.
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