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Post by 77mali Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:35 pm

So I put a down pmt on this 97 Cheyenne 1500 4x4 today.  Been looking for a long time & finally found one that wasn't a rusted out POS.  It's got a 305 fuel injected motor, 4L60 Trans & 3.73 in the back.  Needs a little bit of work but it's been in the same family up in NH for all it's life, past down from brother to brother.  124 on the ticker & it's not perfect but It drives straight (never plowed with).  

Anyone who's got one similar,  I'd like to hear about your experience with it good or bad. Thanks.   Very Happy 

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Post by dynchel Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:39 pm

Looks nice, I see slot of aftermarket add ons (hood, front bumper, wheels), I don't have any first hand experience with chevy trucks (I've had fords and now a tundra) there is a pretty active forum at chevytalk for those trucks.
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Post by 77mali Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:54 pm

Thanks for the tip on C/T.  I'll check it out.

Both bumpers are newer replacements as well as the hood.  The front bumper has some pretty bright fog lamps.  All four stock rims are included too.  The hood is a steel cowl hood that I could hook up to a kit (which the owner did not get) for better air induction.  It has a nice folding bed cover as well as a really nice carpet style bed liner.  There is surface rust here & there but no rot- the metal on the rockers & doors are still in good shape too- just starting to show a little rust & the undersides are good.  Some sanding & POR15 will kill it in its tracks.  I'm hoping to grab it & bring it home Tues/Weds.

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Post by ant7377 Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:05 pm

Looks good Paul,enjoy it. Keep the bottom of the doors clean and the ends of the frame.
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Post by BlackChevelleSS Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:25 pm

Ive got pretty much the same truck, which is a 96 silverado z71 with the 305 and its well over 200K on it. trans replaced once and 2 rear ends. but the motor keeps on going. Those trucks are getting hard to find anymore and are going up in value.

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Post by BlackChevelleSS Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:31 pm

New 2 me Pickup

Only pic I have of mine

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Post by 77mali Sun Feb 23, 2014 11:00 pm

That's a sweet one Dan, is yours a 2 door also with the forward thrusting bench seat? I wanted a white one & actually looked at one the day b4 yest but it was rotted beyond the rockers & it was a 2000 model year. The interior was much better but the price was outrageous. It had 112k on it and it was listed for 7k on CL. I ran pretty fast, they didn't want to come down much. The gent I'm buying it from replaced the valve body on the trans 5 years ago & hasn't had a problem since then. I don't plan to work it too hard so hopefully the rear end lasts.
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Post by BlackChevelleSS Sun Feb 23, 2014 11:05 pm

No mine is the the 2 door with the buckets and a center console.

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Post by 77mali Tue Feb 25, 2014 8:53 pm

Check out this Choo-Choo customs 1500

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-C-K-Pickup-1500-Custom-Conversion-Extended-Cab-Silverado-1995-Chevrolet-C1500-Silverado-/181332329705?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a383fc4e9&item=181332329705&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
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Post by 77mali Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:17 am

The old 305 was kind of "lagging"- poor throttle response condition & a bad smell, especially with the heater on, as well as fairly horrendous gas mileage, even for a V8.  I gave it a minor service; new plugs, cleaned out the K&N filter, disassembled & washed out the air housing, cleaned the MAF sensor, used some Seafoam spray on the throttle body and "Rislone Complete Gasoline Fuel System Treatment" with a full tank of gas.  The Rislone stuff was amazing, noticed improvement almost immediately & it's a 5,000 mile regular use product.  Not bad for $11.00.  In between that I plan to use an Ethanol treatment also.

There is still a slight smell but I'd say it's at about 20% of what it was & after the engine warms it's really only noticeable with the heat up all the way & blower @ max.  Any thoughts?

Maybe it's a dead animal in the heater core housing- LOL.
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Post by dynchel Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:22 am

Its possible there is mildew inside the HVAC system.  Sometimes the drain for the a/c would get clogged and the inside would get wet and mildew.  They make (or made?) A deodorizer spray for this problem (if that's what it is). Good luck.  John m.
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Post by chevellelaguna Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:48 am

For the smell try stuffing some dryer sheets down the vent, that'll give you a fresh scent coming out of the vent, they also make those clip on air freshners by Glade that clip on your vent as well. Before there was Rislone, there was the quart of ATF that you'd pour down the carb as you worked the throttle to keep it idling. The trans fluid would burn off any carbon deposits and turn to steam, and there would be a HUGE white cloud out the exhaust. Of course you'd have to change the oil afterwards.
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Post by BlackChevelleSS Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:56 am

check the evap system for stuck valves or cracked lines. Do you have check engine light?

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Post by ant7377 Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:14 pm

Paul,turn on the heat full blast and spray febreeze down the vents out side the truck near the wipers, you can use use lysol too whatever you have even white vinegar in a spray bottle. That will kill the smell,its mold in the ducts. Dont fart in there though that will male the truck smell like A$$.
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Post by magic marouke Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:29 pm

There's plenty of those 88-98 's still running around here and the people I know that have them seem to like them . I had a 97 1 ton diesel and worked it hard for a year and was happy with it . Broke down in Gallup NM with a shagged water pump but that's about it . Love that color by the way
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Post by 77mali Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:54 pm

Thanks for all the good ideas & replies fellers.  It might be an exhaust thing too...IDK.  Too late on the Farts Ant Cool 


BlackChevelleSS wrote:check the evap system for stuck valves or cracked lines. Do you have check engine light?

No engine light, EVAP seems OK but I did notice that the EGR valve looked old, maybe even original.  Can you clean out the EGR pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold up to (haven't looked @ where it ends up yet-lol) or is a replacement a better idea?  Since I used the seafoam spray in the TBI it seems to feel much better...maybe the injectors just need to clean out more.  The plugs seemed to help it settle down a lot @ idle.

The other thing is also that I don't have to worry about emissions since the car is over 15yo.  I might do a dual exhaust system & am also wondering if I can get rid of the EGR system & CAT altogether? Gotta get a Manual too...that might help some Smile
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Post by BlackChevelleSS Sun Mar 23, 2014 7:40 pm

leave the egr, its helps on gas mileage. Ive seen EGR valves get stuck open before but the car will run like crap. In 2002-2003 GM changed the injector setup on the vortecs from CSFI to MPFI. If you got the money I recommend upgrading. the old injectors with age can leak, get carbon deposits on the poppets and make hard to start.

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Post by 77mali Sun Mar 23, 2014 7:57 pm

Thanks for the tip on the MPFI, might be a summer project. I've read about the upgrade, very practical & straight forward. I think the "Spider" unit only costs about $300.00, so it's not that bad. The bad part is to take everything apart on top to get at the thing. I'm going to see how the next month or so goes, it seems the more I drive it the better it runs.
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Post by 77mali Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:51 pm

So Dan...

I got a misfire code #P0305 (cylinder #5).  I pulled the brand new plug that I installed from #5 and it was fouled with fuel as well as somewhat burnt up on the tip.  I think it's time for the upgrade from the CSFI system.  I found lots & lots of info on this conversion online.  Seems pretty straight forward & I am about to order the parts.  

For what it may be worth to you, if you ever need to do it (or do it again), I traced the spider module back to "Standard Motor Products" & found that they have an online store through Amazon.  (Don't tell their distributors) They sell the unit for MUCH less than anyone else that I've found.  Everything below is about $300 (w/ free shipping) plus any applicable state sales tax.

Injector:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYP6JI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Gasket kit required:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RDBPTK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

New Bracket for the "Spider"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQE420/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

If anyone reading also owns a similar truck, Suburban, etc... More info for the curious:
From what I've read the poppets in the injectors in the original system are very prone to deposit clogs as well as distortion form being exposed to the heat generated within the intake.  The upgraded injectors are very different and people who have done this seem to be very happy with their decision.  Here is a good & brief explanation of what's involved in the "component" upgrade from another company (who's selling the same system for way more money LOL)

http://www.theautoshop.net/VortecMPFI.htm
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Post by 77mali Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:59 pm

It's been a long weekend.  I replaced the fuel injection system in the truck and all went well except this-

Is there a trick to reinstalling the cable on the left?  It was easy as heck to remove, just popped the tab open (the white part dissapears when closed)...for some reason I can't get the thing to stay on the throttle body tab.  When I open the throttle it just falls off. Help would be much appreciated.  See pic below.

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Post by dynchel Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:14 pm

All I can remember off hand about that is hold the throttle open with one hand (to gain some slack) put the end of the cable in the hole and release the throttle making sure the cable rides in the grooves.  Unless something broke or is missing it should go together easily.
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Post by 77mali Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:20 pm

I can clip it on no problem, it's when the throttle opens up beyond a certain point, it disengages from the tab, even when "locked in". Maybe I need to figure out a way to tighten the slack. I don't think it's broke, prob just me being dog@$$ tired.
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Post by BlackChevelleSS Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:04 pm

I hate those things. I always end up breaking them. Its just cruise control. Its backwards in the pic, the end that goes on the tab is the end thats facing away from it.

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Post by 77mali Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:34 am

Thanks guys.  I'll figure it out eventually.

Here's a couple pics of the MPFI conversion.  The old CSFI was in bad shape but still for 124k it was still working.  Had pi$$ poor acceleration and of course the MPG I think was around 10-12 (Ouch).  After BlackChevelleSS clued me in on cruise contr cable (I thought it was for the trans-LOL), I took it for a quick spin around the hood.  Right away I noticed a smoother idle & there was a huge improvement hitting the gas pedal.  MPG is yet TBD.

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Post by BlackChevelleSS Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:38 am

sorry to tell you but your old injector was a MPFI converted already. The old CSFI would only have tubes coming out of the central unit not tubes and wires. But new injectors would make a decent difference. Maybe you can sell your old unit on craigslist.

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