1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build

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1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Empty Re: 1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build

Post by Joe73 on Fri Nov 15, 2019 1:09 pm

1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Rear_u10
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Post by g3chevy on Fri Nov 15, 2019 3:01 pm

Amazing job Joe! Can't wait to see it finished. This is great motivation for the rest of us.
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:55 am

It sounds fantastic, great work Joe, you're a craftsman.
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Post by Joe73 on Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:31 am

thanks everybody
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Post by 73ss on Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:16 pm

What are your fuel system plans Joe? I see a sump hanging there.
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Post by Joe73 on Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:22 pm

I'm running a hi volume mechanical pump. I put the sump on the tank back in 1987. Havent used it. I dont really need it but its cool on the original tank. I even have a Fram HPG1 remote high performance filter from back in the 80s that I was going to put on the rear frame rail. But no need for that either.
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Post by ant7377 on Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:48 pm

Joe,sounds fantastic!! I'm sure we will be out at some cruises/car shows this summer.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Mon Nov 18, 2019 8:05 am

Joe73 wrote:I'm running a hi volume mechanical pump.  I put the sump on the tank back in 1987.  Havent used it.  I dont really need it but its cool on the original tank.  I even have a Fram HPG1 remote high performance filter from back in the 80s that I was going to put on the rear frame rail.  But no need for that either.  

I usually put some kind of remote filter right off the tank outlet and remove the sock off the tank pickup. That way it is never a question of the sock being dirty and having to drop the tank. I've used the fram filters for that.
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Post by Joe73 on Mon Nov 18, 2019 11:12 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:
Joe73 wrote:I'm running a hi volume mechanical pump.  I put the sump on the tank back in 1987.  Havent used it.  I dont really need it but its cool on the original tank.  I even have a Fram HPG1 remote high performance filter from back in the 80s that I was going to put on the rear frame rail.  But no need for that either.  

I usually put some kind of remote filter right off the tank outlet and remove the sock off the tank pickup.  That way it is never a question of the sock being dirty and having to drop the tank.  I've used the fram filters for that.  

Thanks Ray. I love the look of it but this engine doesnt need it. I built it for decent power and good sound. Its a 355 (my original numbers matching block) with 10:1 compression, 200cc Promaxx aluminum heads, Comp Cams 292 duration, 750 Vacuum Demon. Coupled to my factory M20 with dialed scattershield and dual friction clutch, out to 4.10s with an Eaton posi. Quench at .040 with thin gasket. Dizzy set at 34 degrees, with advance at idle.

Should go ok. Not looking for a max effort build. Would love to run some drag radials but I dont want to start breaking things with the clutch. I've already dropped the driveshaft a couple times and ripped the lower control arm front frame mounts off twice.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Mon Nov 18, 2019 12:29 pm

No no joe. Its not for ANY performance gains at all. Just saying, I use it and take the sock off the sender. How many times does someone have a fuel issue and the first question is the condition of the sock? This way, you can open the filter mounted off the tank.
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Post by Joe73 on Mon Nov 18, 2019 12:52 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:No no joe.  Its not for ANY performance gains at all.  Just saying, I use it and take the sock off the sender.  How many times does someone have a fuel issue and the first question is the condition of the sock?    This way, you can open the filter mounted off the tank.  

Gotcha Ray. Thanks
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