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1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build

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1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Empty Re: 1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build

Post by Joe73 Fri Nov 15, 2019 1:09 pm

1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Rear_u10
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Post by g3chevy / Mr Pontiac Fri Nov 15, 2019 3:01 pm

Amazing job Joe! Can't wait to see it finished. This is great motivation for the rest of us.
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Post by Flywheel Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:55 am

It sounds fantastic, great work Joe, you're a craftsman.
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Post by Joe73 Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:31 am

thanks everybody
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Post by 73ss Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:16 pm

What are your fuel system plans Joe? I see a sump hanging there.
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Post by Joe73 Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:22 pm

I'm running a hi volume mechanical pump. I put the sump on the tank back in 1987. Havent used it. I dont really need it but its cool on the original tank. I even have a Fram HPG1 remote high performance filter from back in the 80s that I was going to put on the rear frame rail. But no need for that either.
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Post by ant7377 Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:48 pm

Joe,sounds fantastic!! I'm sure we will be out at some cruises/car shows this summer.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Mon Nov 18, 2019 8:05 am

Joe73 wrote:I'm running a hi volume mechanical pump.  I put the sump on the tank back in 1987.  Havent used it.  I dont really need it but its cool on the original tank.  I even have a Fram HPG1 remote high performance filter from back in the 80s that I was going to put on the rear frame rail.  But no need for that either.  

I usually put some kind of remote filter right off the tank outlet and remove the sock off the tank pickup. That way it is never a question of the sock being dirty and having to drop the tank. I've used the fram filters for that.
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Post by Joe73 Mon Nov 18, 2019 11:12 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:
Joe73 wrote:I'm running a hi volume mechanical pump.  I put the sump on the tank back in 1987.  Havent used it.  I dont really need it but its cool on the original tank.  I even have a Fram HPG1 remote high performance filter from back in the 80s that I was going to put on the rear frame rail.  But no need for that either.  

I usually put some kind of remote filter right off the tank outlet and remove the sock off the tank pickup.  That way it is never a question of the sock being dirty and having to drop the tank.  I've used the fram filters for that.  

Thanks Ray. I love the look of it but this engine doesnt need it. I built it for decent power and good sound. Its a 355 (my original numbers matching block) with 10:1 compression, 200cc Promaxx aluminum heads, Comp Cams 292 duration, 750 Vacuum Demon. Coupled to my factory M20 with dialed scattershield and dual friction clutch, out to 4.10s with an Eaton posi. Quench at .040 with thin gasket. Dizzy set at 34 degrees, with advance at idle.

Should go ok. Not looking for a max effort build. Would love to run some drag radials but I dont want to start breaking things with the clutch. I've already dropped the driveshaft a couple times and ripped the lower control arm front frame mounts off twice.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Mon Nov 18, 2019 12:29 pm

No no joe. Its not for ANY performance gains at all. Just saying, I use it and take the sock off the sender. How many times does someone have a fuel issue and the first question is the condition of the sock? This way, you can open the filter mounted off the tank.
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Post by Joe73 Mon Nov 18, 2019 12:52 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:No no joe.  Its not for ANY performance gains at all.  Just saying, I use it and take the sock off the sender.  How many times does someone have a fuel issue and the first question is the condition of the sock?    This way, you can open the filter mounted off the tank.  

Gotcha Ray. Thanks
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Post by 77mali Wed Mar 25, 2020 9:42 am

Joe73 wrote:First time out of the garage in 5 years.  First time out of the garage with the new paint.  I painted it Oct. 2016 .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGsDDJ18aqI&feature=youtu.be

Awesome! Lovin' the sound your cam is making.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Mar 25, 2020 9:46 am

Thanks Paul. It will sound way better when the exhaust it out the back. Now theres just mufflers on the end of the headers.
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Post by Joe73 Tue Mar 31, 2020 5:45 pm

Scored a 5 month old Group 78 AGM battey.  I purchased the GM battery insulation sleeve for it since the battery is a white/grey color.  Put on a R89s battery topper to look like original.  Just for fun.  Just have to either locate an original Delco "eye" cap or mod mine for the green eye.

1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Batter10


Last edited by Joe73 on Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Limey SE Tue Mar 31, 2020 8:56 pm

Joe on one of my Other forums They Just offered for sale the Topper you are talking about Let me get Link

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Post by Limey SE Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:02 pm

Joe I dont know what years these are for so Forgive me for that


For a limited time, you can get your choice of the 4 toppers avail and a free battery brochure, these are hard to find, some cars had them in the glovebox paperwork. 1 topper, 1 brochure, $65 plus $15 Priority ship in the CONUS. ( includes $50 insc insc. if more is needed, you can add more if you like. ) 2 toppers can ship for the $15, but only has $50 insc.)
Get your car ready for spring. These toppers fit a 78 series battery, white interstate battery’s looks closest to factory, smaller battery’s will have a slight over hang on end. But hardly noticeable. hurry, this deal won’t last long.
Eye is not a decal, All 4 toppers have the 2 pc plexi eye that looks real.


1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 6db7b810

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Post by Joe73 Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:20 pm

You would have to google what years, what batteries were available and used in what models. I think those toppers are for cars in the late 70 early 80s but you would have to check. I have the R89s for the group 78 battery. Side terminal. That was stock for 73.
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Post by 77camino Wed Apr 01, 2020 9:51 am

If my memory is correct, I’m pretty sure that my fathers new 1977 El Camino had one of the two batteries on the left side of that picture. I remember my dad and grandfather trying to figure out what the little green lens was for. At 9 years old if they were under the hood so was I!!
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Post by Joe73 Tue Jul 27, 2021 12:31 pm

Ok, its time to address the trim on the car.  I ended up buying the Harbor Freight bench buffer (orange one for $52).  Runs exceptionally smooth, has great rpm and does not bog down when you push on it.  Also picked up a steel stand for it off FB markteplace.

I coated the parts with Easy Off brand oven cleaner and let it sit about 10 minutes.  Then a quick scuff with some red scotchbrite pads.  Then rinse with water.  About 90% of the anodize came off on the first shot.  I was impressed.  I tried the "great value" walmart oven cleaner and it didnt do too to well.  

Got all the anodize off and inspected the pieces.  Usual nicks and dings but nothing bad.  I found that if any nick was a bit deep, I used a "used" scotchbrite Roloc on the air grinder to gently remove the nick.  Same grinder you would use to remove a gasket off the engine.  The Roloc works great and quick.  Then I sanded all the pieces with some 600 wet, then 800, then 1000.  I didnt go crazy and any very light pits I left alone.  Any dings I worked out with a small punch and small screwdriver working slowly.  

Then I used some Brown Tivoli cutting rouge on the buffer which brings out a nice shine in just one pass.  I wore leather gloves for better control and because the piece gets hot when your buffing.  After the Brown Trivoli, I went with the Green rouge for stainless steel.   Again works very well.  I tried some White rouge after the green but it didnt really do anything so I kept with the brown and green.  

Wiped the parts with alcohol and then mineral based Wax and Grease remover.  I then shot some Southern Polyurethane Euro clear because its a harder clear designed for mercedes and bmw cars and used by wheel refinishers.  I used Universal Clear when I painted my car.  I shot one quick coat with a 20 minute flash, then the second coat.  

All in all, I saved a bunch of money by doing it myself (and there arent any guys local to me to drop them off).  It went pretty quick with the most time being the sanding.  They now have an almost mirror finish and some good clear so they dont oxidize.  Basically took a full day to have them close to done.  Little touch ups on the buffer the next day.  

Heres some pics.  First two (2) pics show the stripped trim compared to a polished piece.  The stripped trim has a satin finish but easily comes up to a shine.  

1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Trim_p10
1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Trim_p11
1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Trim_p12
1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 13 Trim_p13
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Post by Limey SE Tue Jul 27, 2021 7:41 pm

Thank you for the Tips Joe Mine are in desperate need of this

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Post by impalamonte Fri Jul 30, 2021 9:40 am

Very nice work.

I refinished mine as well. Not as extensive as you Joe.

Then had mine clear powder coated.

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Post by Joe73 Fri Jul 30, 2021 11:39 am

Thanks. Clear powder coated, very nice. I thought of that but my powder coat guy didnt recommend clear for my intake explaining that it would yellow over time. Dont know if thats because of the heat or what. I think clear powdercoat on the trim would be the way to go.
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Post by Sinister Yesterday at 5:52 pm

Any tips for getting the clutch adjusted properly?
Have a project together but not quite sure where to BEST make the clutch adjustments?
Thanks
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Post by Joe73 Yesterday at 7:12 pm

Easiest way would be as follows. The object it to have the correct "free play". Free play is the amount the clutch pedal moves just until the throw out bearing contacts the fingers of the pressure plate. If you look at your Z bar, bottom leg which connects to the adjustable pushrod. Its the pushrod that goes into the clutch fork. The pushrod goes into the bottom hole on the Z bar. There should be a hole above the bottom hole. If you loosen the nut on the adjustment rod and adjust it so it goes into the TOP hole and pushes the clutch fork rearward so that it LIGHTLY contacts the pressure plate fingers, your are perfect. Just snug up the nut and put the rod back in the bottom hole. Your pedal free play should now be about 1" to 1 14/4" before its has pressure meaning its contacting the pressure plate fingers.

I highly recommend "dialing in" your bellhousing or scattershield !! There is info on the net on how to do that. It will make everything operate smoother and you will have less wear and tear on the input shaft and bearing from misalignment.

Good luck with your project.
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