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G3GM 1973 to 1977 A-bodys. Chevelles, Monte Carlos, El Caminos, Laguna, 442, Cutlass, Malibu, GTO, LeMans, Century, Regal, Grand Am, Grand Prix, Sprint, Gran Sport, Can Am, Hurst-olds, and other 73-77 A-bodies


Rear Control Arm Hardware

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G3GM :: G3 Tech :: Chassis and Suspension

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Rear Control Arm Hardware Empty Rear Control Arm Hardware

Post by SSTOOLMAN Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:03 pm

Hey Guys, I am Changing bushings and want to get all my parts in hand. Does anyone know the exact length of the 1/2 in Grade 8 mount bolts for rear upper & lower control arms?
Ebay has hardware kits availablle but I think I can buy locally for less than $28 they are asking. I am planning on using nylock nuts. Thanks, Keep warm.
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Post by Joe73 Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:28 pm

The bolts measure 3 3/4" from the bottom of the head to the tip of the threads.  So you want a 4" bolt.  Grade 8 of course.  As for the nuts, I've used nylock nuts and they work good.  But if you want something like the originals go with Dorman 246-014.  I've used them and even put a super thin stainless washer under the nut not to scratch the chassis paint.

Here's a link to the nuts.  http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=17613&SEName=246-014

These nuts have a slightly oval hole which grips the threads tight.


Last edited by Joe73 on Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Joe73 Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:30 pm

Also remember to have the car sitting on the ground when you torque the bolts. Or at least have the rear sitting on jack stands holding the car up. That would simulate the car sitting on the ground.
Torque spec is 55 or 60 foot pounds.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:38 am

I like to use the "stover" lock nuts like Joe mentioned. There is no nylon ring to dry out and crack being exposed to the elements. You put them on once and they stay put.
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Post by SSTOOLMAN Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:40 am

Great info! Thanks I will get those ordered.
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Post by Dinomyte Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:36 am

The torque spec I found was 80 ft/lbs when I did this in the summer.  I'm going to find my book and make sure I'm not wrong here but I'm pretty sure of it.  I've got a 77 but I don't think it would be different as the book's for many years.

I don't know if this helps but we had real trouble getting one pair of the replacement bolts through, turned out that the diameter of the unthreaded portion of the bolt up at the shoulder on the oe bolts was bigger than the thread so you could only install it one way.
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Post by Joe73 Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:55 am

I just checked my assembly manual. Yes, the torque spec is 80 ft. lbs. And you have to torque the nut end not the bolt end.
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