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bleeder valves

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Post by Dinomyte Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:26 pm

I'm working real hard at getting my breaks bled, I understand what to do but just can't get the bleeder valve open on my pass side front caliper !!!!!! I've tried everything I can think of :

Penetrating oil
Tapping with the hammer both before and after oil
Cursing
even the 2' ratchet with a 3/8" socket on it.

It won't budge.

I'm open to suggestions, is there anything other than a new caliper? Can the valve be replaced if it's completely destroyed to get it open?

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Post by Mcarlo77 Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:54 pm

You've used a 2' breaker bar and didn't snap it off or round off the nut? You're to be commended, my friend! Did you try using a Dremel w/wire wheel to clean the exposed threads as close to the caliper as possible? Then, more lube and let it soak in.

My patience for something like this is limited. If it won't budge after trying what you've done, I'd give it one last hunch with that breaker bar and either it's going to let loose...or, snap it off.

Here in the states, a newly rebuilt caliper for these cars is $22.99 (local O'Reilly Auto). Hardly worth spending a lot of time screwing with a frozen bleeder screw for that...plus, the peace of mind you've got with a new caliper. Just my humble opinion.
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:37 pm

HEAT !!! I hit the caliper area around the bleeder with acetylene. You might want to also try some Mapp gas or propane as a last resort. Just heat the area around the bleeder real good and use a box end wrench to loosen it.
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Post by ant7377 Mon Jul 20, 2015 8:55 pm

I hate the damn things too. I feel your pain. When they give me too much greif I go get a new caliper or wheel cylinder.
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Post by Mcarlo77 Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:41 pm

I am curious...having never worked with acetylene myself, how can a person be sure the heat transfer won't damage inner seals?
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Post by Joe73 Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:51 pm

I've never had a problem using heat on the bleeders. I just heat caliper around the base of the bleeder then put a box end wrench on it. If it doesnt move, then more heat. Brake calipers can take massive heat just from regular driving.
When I do get the bleeder out I definitely use a small amount of never-seize on the threads when it goes back in. Or I use speed bleeders with the check valve inside. Makes for simple one man bleeding if need be. I usually change my brake fluid every 3 years and use a Mity-Vac hand pump at each bleeder.
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Post by dynchel Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:14 am

i use heat on calipers at my job & have never had a problem, just have to use common sence.
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Post by brownbomber77 Tue Jul 21, 2015 8:50 am

I like propane better on brakes only because the seals aren't really rated to the 800 degrees. But I'm all for a new caliper and a speed bleeder. Totally worth the $10/set of 2. Just sit in the car and pump.

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Post by Dinomyte Sun Jul 26, 2015 11:28 am

So hit the caliper with MAPP gas got the bleeder out, got a replacement that didn't seat the same way so it continued to bleed well after, left a puddle in my garage, ended up with the original back in and all is now good, just filled down the flats and it's now 9mm instead of a 3/8". Exhaust should be done on Monday as it turned out to be too late to get it all finished on Saturday . . .
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Post by Joe73 Sun Jul 26, 2015 11:51 am

I usually put just a bit of anti-seize on the bleeder threads upon reinstall. Just not to have the problem again.
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Post by ant7377 Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:01 pm

Dinomyte wrote:So hit the caliper with MAPP gas got the bleeder out, got a replacement that didn't seat the same way so it continued to bleed well after, left a puddle in my garage, ended up with the original back in and all is now good, just filled down the flats and it's now 9mm instead of a 3/8".  Exhaust should be done on Monday as it turned out to be too late to get it all finished on Saturday  . . .
I jad the same problem once. Got the old one out and the new one wouldnt thread in. Ended up having to replace the calipee.
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Post by Dinomyte Fri Aug 14, 2015 6:37 am

Just an update to this. I found bleeders that treaded, they just didn't fit right, they didn't seal, ended up filing the head of the old bleeder down to a smaller size and going from there with the old one.
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Post by ant7377 Fri Aug 14, 2015 7:43 am

Thats what happened to me as well. Must be something with the threads in the calipers
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Post by thatfnthing Fri Aug 14, 2015 7:58 am

Maybe different thread pitches for different years or production runs?
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Post by ant7377 Fri Aug 14, 2015 8:02 am

It was a parts store caliper I had. They probably do that so it seals. Probably retapped with a different pitch.
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Post by Dinomyte Sat Sep 12, 2015 7:11 pm

We had matched up the bleeder at the store but the bottom (needle part) wasn't exactly the same, I think that was the issue.

I just tossed the new one, what do you want for a dollar?
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