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Laguna is Home!

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thatfnthing
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Post by Wallyuph Tue Sep 16, 2014 2:43 pm

Plan A was better
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Post by dynchel Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:11 pm

driveit wrote:Plan A super cheap!  If you are going mostly stock and can reuse your crank, rods and heads you can rebuild your engine, swap for a stock 4 barrel intake and carb for around 500.  Norther does have good cheap rebuild kits!

Plan B more fun!!  For a little more umph from norther you can go with this setup.  A torque cam, new scat crank .30 over pistons, new water pump, oil pump and all of the other goodies to do the rebuild of a short block.  You don't get the rods with this.  573.00  Another 50.00 and you get new rods too.

Performer EPS from AJUSA.com 134.00
http://www.ajusa.com/Edelbrock-Performer-EPS-Intake-Manifold-c32a3v97dq1638d.html

Performer 600cfm for 290.00 from Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1405?seid=srese1&gclid=CJCm-LOj5sACFbTm7Aod_UsATA

Ceramic Coated Headers from Summit 230.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006-9/overview/make/chevrolet

Rebuilt starter estimated 50.00

New Summit Distributer 92.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001-1/overview/make/chevrolet

Black engine dress up kit 34.00
Laguna is Home! - Page 2 Sum-7001sbs_ml

Pro flo air cleaner 70.00
Laguna is Home! - Page 2 Edl-43662_oh_ml

1523.00 total on my plan b there...
You didn't include machine shop fees.  They can (easily) exceed $1000.00.
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Post by driveit Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:08 pm

Your right. Last I checked if its a good block and nothing needed done accept a bore on the cylinders it was 150. Might be more now, that was a few years ago.
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Post by 77mali Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:16 pm

I will honestly say that building an engine is a massive undertaking for a 1st timer (in my own personal experience anyway).  Reputable local builders are getting harder & harder to find and it seems like the big companies are the only game in town if you're looking for a warranty.  The guy who built my short block (engine block fluxed, cleaned, ground/machined, crank polished/balanced, new pistons & assembly thereof charged about 2k not including the cost of the RHS heads, new cam, valve train components, timing chain & gear & some other parts.  

If you're going w/ a new motor, my advice is to save some $cratch & get a warrantied GM product that all you have to do is mate it to the rest of the power-train & turn the key.

"Build the engine yourself" I said..."I'll be fun" I said... Not that much fun Laughing
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Post by pila Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:47 pm

Building it yourself is fun if you have done it a number of times, but the first few are a challenge unless it's the same type/brand engine. Jumping from a small block Chevy to a Chrysler 392 hemi rebuild can test you you a bit !

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Post by dynchel Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:52 pm

I didn't to a full rebuild on it but a 371 olds was a pretty easy engine to work on, no adjustable valvetrain, and being able to remove the intake w/o pulling the dizzy are nice touches.
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Post by Mcarlo77 Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:20 pm

Lots of good suggestions here...thanks, guys! Guess I'll have all winter to think things through. It's certainly not the mechanical part of it that intimidates me...it's the lack of knowledge on how to mix and match cams with valves with cranks with pistons, etc. Not to mention all the tricks of setting tolerances, adjusting, timing, lubing when assembling and during startup. The prospect of doing much more than upgrading the intake and carb is certainly out of my comfort zone...ha!
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Post by dynchel Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:41 pm

There are lots of small improvements that can make a difference.  A good dual exhaust is a start, followed by a good ignition system (I like MSD boxes & wires) but even a good tune up with performance wires & a quality cap and rotor are worth the effort.  A timing curve kit ,(ie lighter springs & weights)  is real cheap.  A good 14/3 (minimum) air cleaner is a must, and we can't forget that timing adjustments are free.  IIRC my '74 ran good with 4 degrees advanced from stock (back when it was "milder" combo). That 350 is just begging for upgrades... Twisted Evil
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Post by bracketchev1221 Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:40 am

Mcarlo77 wrote:Lots of good suggestions here...thanks, guys!  Guess I'll have all winter to think things through.  It's certainly not the mechanical part of it that intimidates me...it's the lack of knowledge on how to mix and match cams with valves with cranks with pistons, etc.  Not to mention all the tricks of setting tolerances, adjusting, timing, lubing when assembling and during startup.  The prospect of doing much more than upgrading the intake and carb is certainly out of my comfort zone...ha!

Well, there is one way to learn. You can build it on the stand and NEVER touch the car until you are ready to do the swap. You can even run it on the dyno to raise your confidence that the motor is reliable and ready to go before putting it in the car. Even if you are unsure, you can have the machine shop put the rotating assembly (pistons, rods and crank) in the block and you do the rest. And there are enough people to talk to about what parts are good for your requirements. I have a 350 block sitting on my engine stand now that will be the start of my 383. My problem is trying to avoid going overboard with it. I tend to gravitate to race motors, so I have to hold back on the parts I buy. My 355 in the Nova would have cost about $7000 to build if not for the discounts I got. That's why you throw out the receipts before the wife sees them!!!!!!! Very Happy
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Post by driveit Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:10 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:
Mcarlo77 wrote:Lots of good suggestions here...thanks, guys!  Guess I'll have all winter to think things through.  It's certainly not the mechanical part of it that intimidates me...it's the lack of knowledge on how to mix and match cams with valves with cranks with pistons, etc.  Not to mention all the tricks of setting tolerances, adjusting, timing, lubing when assembling and during startup.  The prospect of doing much more than upgrading the intake and carb is certainly out of my comfort zone...ha!

Well, there is one way to learn.  You can build it on the stand and NEVER touch the car until you are ready to do the swap.  You can even run it on the dyno to raise your confidence that the motor is reliable and ready to go before putting it in the car.  Even if you are unsure, you can have the machine shop put the rotating assembly (pistons, rods and crank) in the block and you do the rest.  And there are enough people to talk to about what parts are good for your requirements.  I have a 350 block sitting on my engine stand now that will be the start of my 383.  My problem is trying to avoid going overboard with it.  I tend to gravitate to race motors, so I have to hold back on the parts I buy.  My 355 in the Nova would have cost about $7000 to build if not for the discounts I got.  That's why you throw out the receipts before the wife sees them!!!!!!! Very Happy

Amen!
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Post by pila Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:21 pm

I don't have the problem with receipts, and my wife thinks my projects are fine, and wants to drive the '75 El Camino when it's done Very Happy

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Post by driveit Thu Sep 18, 2014 11:55 am

I have talked mine into driving my car a few times, but she doesn't like driving it. Maybe she will once it is finished.
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Post by dynchel Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:02 pm

My wife fears manual brakes, so she doesn't drive mine.  I think she does not like big cars in general since she doesn't like my crown Vic either.
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Post by driveit Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:28 pm

dynchel wrote:My wife fears manual brakes, so she doesn't drive mine.  I think she does not like big cars in general since she doesn't like my crown Vic either.

Ever saw a mercury marauder? I think those could be made into a cool looking car. I think they are pretty much the same as a Vic.
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Post by thatfnthing Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:33 pm

The late model Marauders ARE Vics. Try one of the early Marauders.
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Post by Wallyuph Thu Sep 18, 2014 1:41 pm

My wife drives all my cars. She used to take my 56 Chevy to work when she had a lunch date so she could give people rides in it. She drives the 73 Malibu too. She not a fan of the Laguna as its not done on the inside plus I had her sit in it when I got it to push it off the car trailer with no breaks and steering column was not hooked up wires all over. I told her the curb will stop you but I think it still is a scary memories for her.

This would freak any one out. Glad that mess is gone now.
[url=[url=https://servimg.com/view/17248508/401]Laguna is Home! - Page 2 Img_6210

Laguna is Home! - Page 2 Img_6210
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Post by dynchel Thu Sep 18, 2014 1:50 pm

I bought my crown Vic new.  At the time (2003) the marauder had just come out but was out of my price range.  Also I still lived in a "urban" neighborhood where it would likely gotten stolen (plus the higher insurance) that goes with cars like that.Laguna is Home! - Page 2 Photobucket-71780-1363173497262_zps00d2a846
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Post by driveit Thu Sep 18, 2014 2:04 pm

I like yours though it looks like an undercover car.

Wally I do not look forward to doing the wiring in my car. The look of the scares me to death.
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Post by Wallyuph Thu Sep 18, 2014 2:57 pm

driveit wrote:I like yours though it looks like an undercover car.  

Wally I do not look forward to doing the wiring in my car.  The look of the scares me to death.

When its that much of a mess you just rip it out and start new that's what I did.
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Post by pila Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:49 pm

I've done some work on my son's Crown Vic, and even though I'm not a Ford guy, that car is very well built, and with some very good designs involved.
I had to replace the trans "double hump" cross-member because of rust, and noticed it could be used on a G3 without much work !

A rats nest of wiring scares many folks. I'm kind of used to it, so I just wade into it if it's necessary. The wiring harness in my '75 Elco project is from a '77 I had, so it had to be transferred etc, so this one was an easy job.

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