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73 laguna nose

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Post by 74Malibu383 Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:40 am

I would recommend a cooler on any transmission. I'm running a 2800 stall and AZ traffic is getting pretty bad. They don't start making heat till they flash over anyway. Stop and go traffic wouldn't be terrible unless you were jumping on it at every "go". I know mine runs at about 200 degrees.

Besides, that stall number is pretty loose. Say a converter which is rated at 2500 stall for a 500 horse small block will have MORE stall if it is installed behind a 500 horse big block because the big block puts out more torque which will over-ride the factory rating. Behind that big block it may flash to 3000 before it starts to work.

In all honesty, I think any street car will be fine if they stay under 3000. I believe 3000 is when the physical converter stall changes to a smaller diameter. That’s when you start building big time heat.
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Post by The Dude Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:15 pm

Weight can affect stall ratings too, not just power. A 2500 rated stall in a 3,000lb car is gonna be higher when used in a 4,000lb car. Just wanted to throw that in.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:32 pm

Sure... This is why, when you contact a torque converter manufacturer, they ask you EVERYTHING about your motor/trans/rear end and tire combo, vehicle weight. It will all affect the final stall numbers. Everything is relative and every change can change the actual stall numbers.
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Post by The Dude Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:49 pm

Thumbs up Definitely. If you don't know what you are doing, you could end up in a serious hurting. I once watched a kid buy a truck from a buddy of mine & decide that he needed 5000rpm of stall for some reason or another. scratch What used to be a very clean mild mannered truck become a high winding gas hog for a couple of months until the tranny blew. Next time I saw it rolling around, a different guy was driving it.
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Post by TWBouska AKA Wooderson Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:53 pm

based on the build i copied my engine should be good for around 410 hp and 430 ft lbs, what would you recommend? ill dig up the cam duration i cant remember off the top of my head.
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Post by Limey SE Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:55 pm

I would go with a 2000 to 2200 stahl with that build (unless your gonna go with more horsies later) then go with a 2500

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Post by TWBouska AKA Wooderson Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:58 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:I would recommend a cooler on any transmission. .

my girlfriends dad just put a 700r4 in my girlfriends chevelle and he was saying something about using a cooler in it that they use on motorhomes so that theres no way it could ever overheat, i wish i had a little more free time these days so i could have helped him with it and learned for when i do mine, a built 700r4 is the next upgrade on my list, then the rearend...since im going to have over drive, im thinking about running 4.11's...what do you guys think about that? should i just stick to 3.73's?
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Post by Limey SE Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:01 pm

I would stick with the 3.73 even with the overdrive

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Post by 74Malibu383 Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:06 pm

Stall converter: I think you should call TCI, Hughes, or another big manufacture and give them all the details about your car, what you do with it, and what your plans are. They are the experts, and they would have the best information for you.

I'm personally running a 2800 stall, and love it.

Cooler: In my experience, the "oil" type coolers work better for transmission, than the ones you can visually see the pipe running back and forth. However, anything would be better than nothing.

Rear end:
The 700r4 has a VERY low first gear. With 4.10's out back, you are going to be blowing the tires off. 3.73 has always been a great gear. You might want to go there.

I personally have a 700r4 with a 4.10 rear gear. In all honesty, I'll probably drop down to a 3.42 after the HP upgrade.
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Post by TWBouska AKA Wooderson Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:34 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:Stall converter: I think you should call TCI, Hughes, or another big manufacture and give them all the details about your car, what you do with it, and what your plans are. They are the experts, and they would have the best information for you.

I'm personally running a 2800 stall, and love it.

Cooler: In my experience, the "oil" type coolers work better for transmission, than the ones you can visually see the pipe running back and forth. However, anything would be better than nothing.

Rear end:
The 700r4 has a VERY low first gear. With 4.10's out back, you are going to be blowing the tires off. 3.73 has always been a great gear. You might want to go there.

I personally have a 700r4 with a 4.10 rear gear. In all honesty, I'll probably drop down to a 3.42 after the HP upgrade.

i appreciate the advice, ill probably stick to 3.73's then, so you bought your 700r4 from TCI? im probably just going to pull a core at the boneyard and try rebuilding one myself, the one in my girlfriends chevelle was out of a vega drag car with a 1,500 hp big block in front of it, so it can definitely handle a 307 or the 454 its getting soon.
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Post by TWBouska AKA Wooderson Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:36 pm

Limey wrote:I would go with a 2000 to 2200 stahl with that build (unless your gonna go with more horsies later) then go with a 2500


im going to definitely be upping the power eventually, once i get the trans and rear end rebuilt im going to take the cam heads and intake and throw them on a 383 block im going to build, and maybe eventually turbo (s)
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Post by 74Malibu383 Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:11 pm

No, I got mine from Bowtie Overdrives. Not sure what's all in it, but I know it's built with hardened components. If you go on their website, I got what they call a 765r4...
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Post by TWBouska AKA Wooderson Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:22 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:No, I got mine from Bowtie Overdrives. Not sure what's all in it, but I know it's built with hardened components. If you go on their website, I got what they call a 765r4...

ill check out the kits they have for sure.
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