at a loss

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 2:07 am

Does anyone have a diagram with simple pics and color codes ie red wire from left side of switxh x and black with white on right etc. If so any one willing to make a copy and mail it to me plz needed for under dash and engine compartment. Driving me freaking nuts knowing how close the Buick is to driving and damned wiring stopping me

by 77mali Fri Sep 13, 2013 7:02 am

What's not working? Something in the engine harness? I have no diagrams but can post pics here for you.

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:43 am

The wire to dizzy has no power. But it's either under hood or under dash where problem is. Then there are misc wires laying loose. On interior no dope lights no p/ windows no brake lights and cut spliced and uplugged wires

by thatfnthing Fri Sep 13, 2013 9:55 am

Did it used to work and now doesn't, or was it dead from the beginning? Is everything dead, including headlights & taillights? Can't remember -- what year is it? I have diagrams for 73 that I should be able to scan & post.

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 3:56 pm

74 regal windows not at all since I've had it or brake lights and dizzy. Have heads and tails the plug for the brake lights is m.i.a. so plan on putting the insulated conectors on it. Worst case on dizzy ill put in toggle for power.lot of wires are cut or not all in the conectors ect owner before the guy I got it from was gonna make drag carthen guy I got it from had his employee/ wanna be mechanic lost ignition key so busted column and then was F***ing with wires to get it to start. When I got it had to hot wire the starter to crank it over. Swapped the column out and cranked over butno fire used test light and had no jjuice, so ran wire from dizzy to the battery and then hit the key and fired right up.just gotta pull alligator clip to kill it lol.

by thatfnthing Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:26 pm

Wow, sounds like quite the hatchet job. You might be best off replacing the entire harness.

Meantime, for the dizzy, is it HEI? If so, all you need is a 12v power source during run and crank. Normally you'd just run a 16ga wire from the dizzy + terminal to the IGN port on the fuse box. If your ignition switch has been bypassed, though, half the fuse box will be dead, which explains most of your issues. You could do a manual switch like you mentioned, but long term it would be better to fix the real ignition switch.

If the dizzy is points, similar solution except you'll need a resistance wire because points can't take full 12v -- they'll burn out real quick. The trick will be getting the right resistance wire and length, so you'd be better off taking this opportunity to upgrade to HEI.

Brake lights, headlights, horn, and hazard flashers are independent of ignition -- they should work all the time, period, assuming good fuses. If none of them work, the first place I'd look is for a bad ground at the battery. The second place I'd look (especially after the harness has been cut on) would be the main + feed from the starter to the horn relay post -- this is where the main power comes in, and the horn relay is the first distribution point to other circuits, and likely where something's missing, cut, or disconnected.

by Wallyuph Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:15 pm

Didn't they used to have a fusible link coming off starter to run power for some stuff. Usually the wire if shorted would be all fried.

by thatfnthing Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:23 pm

That would be the main feed to the horn relay. It had the FL at the starter end because it was your only protection for those wires before the fuse box. I was operating under the assumption that the FL was good or hotwiring it shouldn't have worked. Certainly could be an issue.

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:32 pm

All fuses good personally replaced all. Key now starts car if jumper wire is attached for dizzy head lights work. Gas gauge works. Taillights work. Horn loud and proud. Turn signals are kinda working they flash but as 4 ways

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:45 pm

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:48 pm

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:49 pm

I have a head light out and bulb for tails out too but they work

by dragons_lair59 Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:32 pm

Dizzy is hei

by 77mali Sat Sep 14, 2013 7:22 am

Since you can use the key w/ a jumper maybe the line to power the dist is frayed somewhere causing a short. Check the ground wire in the cap is tight also.

by dragons_lair59 Sat Sep 14, 2013 9:29 am

Using test light no power to dizzy. So not a ground issue

by dragons_lair59 Sun Sep 15, 2013 6:32 pm

Ok found alittle bit more out on wiring. Gonna need switches and sockets for window switches. Also there is a wire in the big flat conector on column it's white has letter P on conector that is not hooked up ( car side of harness. And can't find a wire that goes on to the switch that has rod for key it's left side of it in front of the rest of the wires. Also only wires for dizzy I found go from cap to module, the black conector from cap has like 4 wires and go to dizzy body.

by Wallyuph Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:09 am

I have this wire diagram from a 73 with non HEI distributor. But from what I can see is you are missing the Yellow wire from the starter to the positive terminal on the distributor or it has a short in it. They used to have a fusable link on that wire.
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by dragons_lair59 Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:46 am

Gonna have to get the connector and lead wire for dizzy. Anyone got connector and switches for windows lying around they wanna donate lol

by thatfnthing Thu Sep 19, 2013 4:32 pm

Okay, I'm a little late, but I posted all the 73 wiring diagrams:

73 wiring diagrams

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