Exhaust-the many issues-

I need to replace my exhaust, and I started thinking about how my car gad a Cadilidic converter and that I wasn't sure if I needed it. I asked a bunch of people and they all said it was a great idea, and that selling it will increase my hp but also give me some money to spend towards my new exhaust.
New problem, I do not have any connections to either get a tow, or have enough money to get it put up on the lifts. I'm thinking that I can use my own car jack and some car stands,(Will this work or is it a good idea?)
Again, I started asking around about how I could possibly remove it when i do jack it up, and I got basically the jist that I need a blow torch to cut the exhaust away. One of my friends tells me that I shouldn't have to do that and that it should just be able to bolt-it off.(who to believe?)
Another problem, Then i was reading on one of my books for 1964-1979 GMs that all car from 75 and up have stock catilidic converters, which would mean that I cannot remove it, because it was stock.

I am not sure what to believe or how to do this. Any questions I will answer eventually and I appreciate any help
-Lars Bolduc

not sure what your saying about the catalytic converter, but all that does is filters the exhaust for a more economic friendly car. they all had them from factory. but if it was my car id say just get rid of it and put dual exhaust in with no catalytic converters. thats what i went with. and you have to actually get down under your car and look at your exhaust and see if the exhaust is clamped together witha U clamp. if it is then you wont need to do any cutting. and you can change the exhaust at home you dont need to use a fancy lift. just need a few jacks or some cinderblocks and one jack.
heres my dual exhaust pic

You need those converters if you have VET testing there. Without them your car will not pass. Most places exempt cars that are 25 years old and older. You need to check your state laws. If you do not need to pass a vet test, then remove the converters. You may be able to borrow a tubeing cutter at Autozone or simular place to cut off your pipes and a good place that sells exhaust parts will have new pipes and couplers and clamps. They even sell a converter replacement pipe the same length as a converter for peiople who do not need to replace their entire system. All professional exhaust places will just weld everything together and that is when a shadetree mechanic will have extra work cutting everything off. JB

JB2wheeler wrote:You need those converters if you have VET testing there. Without them your car will not pass. Most places exempt cars that are 25 years old and older. You need to check your state laws. If you do not need to pass a vet test, then remove the converters. You may be able to borrow a tubeing cutter at Autozone or simular place to cut off your pipes and a good place that sells exhaust parts will have new pipes and couplers and clamps. They even sell a converter replacement pipe the same length as a converter for peiople who do not need to replace their entire system. All professional exhaust places will just weld everything together and that is when a shadetree mechanic will have extra work cutting everything off. JB

What JB said - CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL LAWS BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING OFF. As for cutting it off, a hack saw or saws-all will also work. If you're just replacing the cat with a new piece of pipe, grab a set of band clamps for each end. You won't have to take it anywhere to weld it.

Cinder blocks aren't a good idea, they're not structurally sound. Just get some good jack stands. Your life isn't worth being cheap or careless. Lower the car onto the jack stands and give it a good nudge while standing next to it. If it doesn't budge, you should be alright under the car. Last thing you want is 2 tons coming down on top of you.

also I use the 4 ton jackstand's ( or whatever the SUV size is rated at ) NOT the 2 ton just for added insurance

1. Get a 73-74 dual hump cross member.
2. can the cat.
3. Dual Flowmaster 50's.

and look for the buick dual cross-member they are 45% lighter than the chevy ones and fit great

Limey wrote:and look for the buick dual cross-member they are 45% lighter than the chevy ones and fit great

Show me. How is it different?

well if it was not on the car I would

the buick ones a flattened steel compared to the chevy's tubular design

lol why did i get negative street cred, using cinderblocks is the redneck way of doing it thats how we do out here in the boon docks. my malibu rear end has been sitting on cinderblocks this whole time and still is and i got underthere to clean the gas tank.

i understand you guys always pick on me cuz im a youngin. jealousy will get you no where

74Malibu383 wrote:Cinder blocks aren't a good idea, they're not structurally sound. Just get some good jack stands. Your life isn't worth being cheap or careless. Lower the car onto the jack stands and give it a good nudge while standing next to it. If it doesn't budge, you should be alright under the car. Last thing you want is 2 tons coming down on top of you.

x2

bigredlaguna wrote:

Limey wrote:and look for the buick dual cross-member they are 45% lighter than the chevy ones and fit great

Show me. How is it different?

OK found one this first pic is the Chevy version of the 73 74 cross member, the second pic will be mine from a 73 Buick Century

doesnt someone custom make the double hump crossmembers? they look a lot lighter than any ive seen

77malibu77 wrote:doesnt someone custom make the double hump crossmembers? they look a lot lighter than any ive seen....

The buick ones are about the same weight as these and scott is a member here and does deep discount them through here if you buy on site and not from ebay

http://www.g3gm.com/for-sale-f7/dual-exhaust-cross-members-custom-t574.htm#18593