Valve lash

I have read so many different ways to adjust valve lash, that I've started to go mad....I recently bought a Comp Cam's kit for my top end and their directions are pretty clear but I'd like some opinions from those of you that may have built up a flat tappet, hydraulic lifter cylinder head set up. I started to do this today and got as far as lubing & loosely fitting the push-rods, pivot balls, rockers (which are roller style but for flat tap Cam- *Magnum Rockers) & the nuts. So, here I wait at top dead center...#1 cylinder in place eagerly anticipating some responses and nervous as heck that I'll do something wrong and the thing will blow up.

I don't know what you guys may think of this method but to me it makes the most sense out of anything I've read.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/adjusting-valve-lash-spg-149.html

The repair manuals, like the old Motors manuals, Chiltons, etc ,,,,state that all the valves can be adjusted in just two crankshaft positions IE: with N0 1 on TDC, you can adjust exhaust 1, 3, 4, and 8, and intakes 1, 2, 5, and 7. Rotate the crank be full turn until 0 degrees is on the tab again, and adjust exhaust #2, 5, 6, and 7.......and intake #3, 4, 6, and 8 The other way is with each cylinder at Top Dead Center, but you need to mark the balancer each 90 degrees to do it, and follow the firing order for each cylinder. That's the way I do it.
The balancer can be marked with chalk on each 90 degree position. The mark can be a bit off without a problem, but close as possible. Some manuals say to twist the push rod with you fingers to get the play to zero, but sometimes the lifter cup moves down easy, so it's not always accurate. Moving the push rod up & down to feel zero clearance works better if the twisting motion doesn't give a good zero.
Older manuals say 1 full turn for lifter pre-load after zero is established. Some folks use just 3/4 of a turn, which is what I do.

Hope this helps a bit.......

The lifter ( in any case I presume), must be all they way down in the chamber for the "up & down method" of setting zero lash, correct?

Exactly. On the bottom of the cam lobe.I think the easiest way is the way pila tells it. Make sure the #1 is at the top of the compression stroke then rotate the motor and make sure #6 is at top of compression stroke. Make sure its the compression stroke.

Thanks Guys. Gonna go for it this PM.

EDIT:
So after trying this on the 1st few valves, decided to go w/ the way I linked to above. Reason being that I must have done something wrong because the bolts did not show the same amount of thread after tightening and they are supposed to look the same looking in line down the head. This method (for me) was simple, easy to understand and makes perfect sense when you think about it although a bit unorthodox compared to what you see in the manuals. But the end result is that everything looks as it should and only turned the engine over twice; just like the common methods. Still have to seal & torque manifold, reinstall dist & alt, belts..etc...but plan to hopefully fire her up late tonight after work. Will post again w/ end result to verify that all went well and confirm this method worked.