Re: 74Malibu383 Build

by 74Malibu383 Wed Jan 13, 2016 11:13 am

Showtime73 wrote:Bryan what offset and backspace are you using? Did you have to get an adapter? Do you ever wish you had smaller wheels? I'm on the fence with between the 18 and 20 inch.

I don't think I wish I had smaller wheels. I think the stance is just right. However, I don't think you would go wrong with 18"s all the way around either. I will say the 20's are a little big for some people, but we all know what opinions are right? Very Happy

If you're ever unsure on the backspacing and think you could use a little more, then do so. You can always run a spacer between the hub and the wheel to bring it back outside. I don't have one but you obviously can't go the other way, so plan accordingly...

Originally I went with:
19x8 with a 5" and 20x10 with a 5.75" with 275/35/19’s and 315/35/20’s

You do have to subtract 1/8" backspacing for the Baer Brakes on front and rear!

The 275's on the 8 didn't look that good up front. They cupped over the rim pretty bad. So I sent the front ones back in and had a 19x10" rim built for the front. I went with 5.25" of backspacing on the front. Turns out they could have moved inwards another 1/4" to 1/2" as I am really close to rubbing the fender. However, it DOES NOT RUB. Not sure if it's the suspension or what, but no matter what I do, I have no issues.

Here's a photo from a couple years ago at full lock to the left. I thought for sure it was going to rub on a hard turn at speed, but it doesn't. Still not sure how... These were Nitto Invo's as well... I do not recommend. No traction at all in the rear, and for an opinion.... I don't like the tread pattern anyway. They're long gone.
74Malibu383 Build - Page 8 Full_l10

by Limey SE Wed Jan 13, 2016 1:37 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:Video:
https://youtu.be/yxMLFn5vjQo

Still a lot of work to be done, but I had to get it started!!! Sound doesn't really do it justice. It sounds pretty damn mean.

Man that sounds mean as heck at the back end of that Video, Cant wait for the Smoke show !!

by 74Malibu383 Thu Jan 14, 2016 3:03 pm

Well... Just ordered a 9" Third Member from Currie... I'm having a full floater 9" housing built by a good friend. Went with the 31 spline instead of the 35 spline. Hopefully it will handle all I can throw at it.

- 3.50 Polished Gears
- Wavetrac Differential

Lifetime warranty on the Wavetrac Differential and they say there isn't a HP number that is too much....

Pretty cool explanation of how they work on their site.
http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm

With that said, I'll curious if anyone needs a built 10 bolt for their car... I'll post up in the for sale section.

by 74Malibu383 Thu Jan 14, 2016 3:16 pm

Posted in the For Sale... Didn't want to hijack my own thread.

by Showtime73 Sat Jan 16, 2016 9:35 pm

Bryan do you have your pictures posted anywhere else? Looks like some of the older ones have been removed. Thanks for all the info, it's going to make my build that much easier, hopefully.

by 74Malibu383 Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:01 pm

What are you looking for?

by Showtime73 Sun Jan 17, 2016 8:24 pm

There was one post that you mentioned sealing all the holes in the firewall and routing all cables through the same hole. I'd like to see that.

by 74Malibu383 Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:32 pm

Anthony - Any idea what happened to all the photos in the first couple pages of my thread?

Showtime - I don't think I have a photo of the wiring coming through the firewall, but if you go to page two, you can see a shot of the clean firewall. There's a hole to the lower left that is barely visible, but that is where most of the wiring came through.

Now though, due to the EFI conversion, there are a couple passages. First would be the fuse block. Painless provides a couple of extra "pass through" holes in their panels. Wiring for the electric fans, vacuum pump, line lock, and sending units for my instrument cluster route through there. Then there is a large hole w/grommet right above the transmission that serve all of my EFI wiring goes though. Lastly, the hole on the passenger side that you should be able to see on page 2. I have a 2g power wire, and 4g ground wire that pass through that hole to distribution blocks. I think I went a little overboard rewiring the car... Pretty much every circuit has it's own ground going to the distribution block instead of the body.

by Limey SE Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:49 pm

Brian it looks like Serv img host site purged them due to age the Link is still there I will see what I can do to restore them

by Limey SE Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:00 pm

I tried to restore them using the links and it shows there Invalid ?? Do you have a link to who hosted the pics ? photobucket or similar ?

by 74Malibu383 Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:06 pm

I just use the servimg through this site...

by Limey SE Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:41 pm

I tried to restore them but could not the link still shows there when I view it so I am at a loss for this one.

by 74Malibu383 Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:39 pm

I've never actually messed with the rear end geometry, but since I'm having a rear end built, I'm doing it now. After a couple days of research, and finding the right suspension calculators, I think I'm there. Stuff like this is why I still can't drive the damn car yet! Smile

I know there are a couple of drag guys here, and I'm curious if you know your Anti-Squat%? Also curious to know if anyone has figured out what these cars came with stock?

After measuring, I can tell you that my current set-up is an earth shattering 33%... No wonder it NEVER hooks up.

I'm planning on moving the upper trailing arm mount on the axle up 1", and having 2 extra lower adjustable holes for the Axle side of the lower trailing arm.

That would give me:
65% in the stock lower arm mounting location
85% in the first additional hole
102% in the second additional hole

I'm not looking for crazy times in the 1/4 and may never even put slicks on it, but just want some more traction....

74Malibu383 Build - Page 8 Img_2025

by Limey SE Tue Jan 26, 2016 9:48 pm

Huh B buddy maybe you should get a free radio for using your Car in Advertisement LMAO

74Malibu383 Build - Page 8 S-l1600

by 74Malibu383 Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:29 pm

HA! No kidding. Maybe I'll ask....

by 74Malibu383 Tue Feb 02, 2016 4:43 pm

So.... no takers on the anti-squat question huh?

Anyway, some parts came in!
- 3rd member from Currie
- Full floater 6P kit from Baer (Disregard the ebrake adapters on the right. Those are for another build he is doing)

Dropped my old rear end and all the parts off at my friend's shop. Hoping to have a new housing by the end of the week!

74Malibu383 Build - Page 8 Img_2026

by Limey SE Tue Feb 02, 2016 8:25 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:So.... no takers on the anti-squat question huh?

Anyway, some parts came in!

I will bite by changing that what does it help, I need to know I am an Enquireing Mind (cant speel though LOL )

by Bruisr Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:20 am

Bryan- are you having your friend use the old rear end for mocking purposes? Gettin a little worried you may have changed your mind? I hope not I'm really looking forward to actually having a posi for the first time ever. I got a friend who is willing to modify my driveshaft for the 1350 u joint, rather than swap the yoke. I'm gonna see about installing 1350 u joints on both ends of the drive shaft while its out.

by Bruisr Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:24 am

You may already know this or about this company, but (guys first name will not show on forum) DicKMiller racing seems to have done a lot of work with factory 4 link setup in a body cars, maybe they might have the answer your looking for the anti squat percentage.

by bracketchev1221 Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:45 am

Sneak up on the Anti Squat number. If you don't have the tire and suspension to hold it, high anti squat will push the tire into the ground, but it rebounds back up into the car. Still doesn't accomplish what you want. I would try the 83% number and see if the car launches. If not you can go up to 100% and see what happens. Being that I am not sure of the bump and rebound rates of the shocks, that has an effect too. The Anti squat will be the force on the rear to move downward, but the rate can be damped by adjusting the rebound on the shock. IF it hits the tire and then unloads, you can tighten the bump on the shocks to hold the tire down. Hope this helps.

by 74Malibu383 Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:24 pm

Thanks Ray. That's exactly what I plan on doing. I do have double adjustable shocks on the rear, so I could play with both the rebound and compression if I need to.

by 74Malibu383 Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:26 pm

Bruisr wrote:Bryan- are you having your friend use the old rear end for mocking purposes? Gettin a little worried you may have changed your mind? I hope not I'm really looking forward to actually having a posi for the first time ever. I got a friend who is willing to modify my driveshaft for the 1350 u joint, rather than swap the yoke. I'm gonna see about installing 1350 u joints on both ends of the drive shaft while its out.

Yes, he is using the old rear end to mock everything up. I haven't changed my mind. It's YOURS!

Check out this conversion u-joint from Spicer. Might be exactly what you need.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/5-460X/10002/-1?parentProductId=2814754

by Joe73 Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:14 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:
Bruisr wrote:Bryan- are you having your friend use the old rear end for mocking purposes? Gettin a little worried you may have changed your mind? I hope not I'm really looking forward to actually having a posi for the first time ever. I got a friend who is willing to modify my driveshaft for the 1350 u joint, rather than swap the yoke. I'm gonna see about installing 1350 u joints on both ends of the drive shaft while its out.

Yes, he is using the old rear end to mock everything up. I haven't changed my mind. It's YOURS!

Check out this conversion u-joint from Spicer. Might be exactly what you need.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/5-460X/10002/-1?parentProductId=2814754

Thats a good joint. If you use a joint with a grease fitting make sure you position it so that when forward power is being applied, the grease fitting area is under compression. If you put it with the power trying to spread the fitting area it makes for an easy place for the fitting to crack.

This time around I bought spicer joints with no grease fitting. Dropped my driveshaft a couple times doing burnouts.

by Bruisr Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:06 pm

My friend at Az. Kustom Koncepts was concerned about the stock u joints using inside snap rings. He had also mentioned that the 1350 yoke was a little longer than the 1310, and therefore may have to shorten the driveshaft. (Not liking this idea). The el camino and chevelle driveshafts are different lengths. I have a 73 El Camino, and a 74 chevelle. The rear end will go into the elco immediately and when the chevelle is done being built I will transfer all parts to the chevelle from the elco, so I don't want to have to do the drive shaft modification twice. So here is my question: the u joint you showed me Bryan might work, I'm thinking I might be able to switch the 1310 outside snapring with a set of inside snaprings on the 1310 half of the u joint. Or just plunk down the money to modify both ends of the driveshaft with 1350 u joints and later do it again for the chevelle swap a few years down the road.

Thanks for the reasurrance Bryan, about the rear end purchase. I didn't think you would have changed your mind, but I wasn't certain. I'm so glad! Again no rush, but whenever your ready just give a shout, and I'll come get it.
Thanks Again.

by 74Malibu383 Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:32 pm

I wish I could comment on the yoke length but I'm really not sure. I am however pretty sure that the conversion u-joint I sent you will work for you.

As with everything, this is taking longer than I originally hoped. Sorry for the delay. He is coming over with the new rear end tonight with all brackets mocked/tacked on. If all goes well, I'll see if I can get the old unit back this week. I'll let you know.

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