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Radiator support bushings.

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bigredlaguna
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Radiator support bushings. Empty Radiator support bushings.

Post by Joe73 Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:54 pm

I just got my order for a PAIR of radiator support bushings for $16 to my door. Just the bushings and shells. No bolts. Seller gave good measurements and they are a great fit. The shells looks just like stock GM shells. The upper bushing even has the molded in washer and the slight bevel on the edge that meets the support.

Either way I'm very happy with them. Just thought I'd post up in case someone needs a pair. The auction is for the pair so you can do both sides.

Just FYI.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251442104291?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Post by crice63 Sun Oct 09, 2016 5:31 pm

Question: I've got the rad out now. Can I do these rad supports now without doing any of the other body supports? Will it put everything else too much out of alignment? The one support I can see, under the charcoal canister? looks pretty bad.

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Post by Joe73 Sun Oct 09, 2016 8:12 pm

Take a look at your fender to door gaps. If they look good, I'd leave the bushings alone. If the gap is tight on the bottom, I'd do the bushings. Anytime you do bushings it changes panel alignment.
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Post by pila Sun Oct 09, 2016 8:30 pm

X2 what Joe said...new bushings under the core support may raise the front clip a bit & increase gap at the door bottoms......you don't wanna go there !! Very Happy

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Post by ant7377 Sun Oct 09, 2016 9:07 pm

Mine were shot and I don't think it moved anything but my car could have better panel alignment any way.
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Post by crice63 Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:32 pm

That's what I suspected. I will look more closely at my fender-door gaps to see if they aren't closer at the bottom. I would love to get any extra height on my radiator shroud that I can because my fan is very close to the shroud at the top. If I could do the supports now with the radiator already out, that might be good, but not entirely necessary. They can be done with the rest whenever that day will come.

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Post by crice63 Sat Nov 26, 2016 1:59 am

So I went out today and measured the door-to-fender gaps on both sides. Got some pics, too. The bottom line is that my gaps are narrow at the bottom and wider up top. The pics don't show the situation very well, maybe due to the phone camera or shadow, so I'll put the measurement chart first.

All measurements in millimeters. The top is the very top, mid is just above the lower curve, and low is just above the bottom trim.
..................Top   Mid   Low
Driver Side    3.9   3.3    1.6
Pass. Side    4.0    3.3    1.4

Passenger side pic:
Radiator support bushings. 31097371202_d97e61951e_z

Drivers side pics. the one showing the whole gap makes it look pretty good somehow, so I took two more at closer range and the narrowing is more visible.

Radiator support bushings. 31126994901_e69ac734a1_z

Radiator support bushings. 31241303775_8571861d82_z

Radiator support bushings. 31126994711_f358e614d0_z

And I don't know if the rad support would affect the way the nose matches to the fender, but the driver side has a noticeable lift there compared to the other side.

Radiator support bushings. 31241303565_4c63706d02_z

Radiator support bushings. 31126994271_1383c86427_z

Remember, the question is whether to do the two core supports now while I have the radiator out and working in the general area.

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Post by Joe73 Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:00 am

I use a doubled up paint stick for.measuring the.gap. Tape two together and.put them in the gap. Then slide.them up and.down the.gap
As for.the header.panel, the headlight extension is cast metal, it can be tweaked slightly but I.don't think that's your problem.
Tighter lower gap tends to be support bushings. How are your bushings?
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Post by crice63 Sat Nov 26, 2016 1:04 pm

I think I can only see one bushing, on the driver side, and it is flat. The other side is under the battery tray?

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Post by Joe73 Sat Nov 26, 2016 1:28 pm

Yes, right by the battery tray. There is a rubber donut on top and on the bottom of the rad support. The rad support is sandwiched between 2 donuts. You should be able to see to see the bottom donut under the battery tray. The bottom donut sits on top of the chassis, then the rad support, then a donut on top.
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Post by crice63 Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:18 pm

Ok, went out and got some pics of the existing supports. The top of the drivers side looks terrible, basically disintegrated.

Radiator support bushings. 30888855290_61188a70f6_z

But below it really doesn't look so bad. It is somewhat flattened but seems to have maintained some integrity.

Radiator support bushings. 30888852940_2a781eee72_z

I can't see the top of the passenger side at all, but underneath it really doesn't look bad.

Radiator support bushings. 30448957623_47d658f235_z

What I had forgotten was that my battery tray is a mess. PO had welded in some sheet, so it's not easily removable. And there is no telling what kind of rust situation I will find underneath it.

Radiator support bushings. 30448959053_70290a9633_z

Radiator support bushings. 30448956923_12b1dfe91a_z

So this may be one of those things better left alone. I can check the parts car for a battery tray but even with a good one it will be some work trying to clean all that up.


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Post by bigredlaguna Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:37 pm

My cars are actually pretty good in this area. But when I get into them again, I plan on finding a plastic battery tray that will fit. I'm 90% certain this will prevent future rusting under the battery just because of the battery.
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Post by Hs1973 Sun Nov 27, 2016 12:29 pm

I would take care of it all now. I would hate to have all those maybe issues in the back of the head. I doesent need to be all that bad when driving into it. A fresh painted rad support with new bushings and fresh battery case, and everything lined up would be so Nice to Think about when done. Almost like you know when you are done cleaning under the bed. No one see it but you know in your mind all is done right. Also If you Stack up to Many issues that need fixing, it could make it look to overpowering getting them all done. If you fix a little at a time it is more eatable. Just my 2 cents, its of course your car and you should do what makes you comfortable. But a little fresh paint and such here and there is so Nice and goes a long Way.
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Post by Hs1973 Sun Nov 27, 2016 12:40 pm

Forgot to say, you dont need to remove your fenders to fix the rad support. Just remove the grill and the headlight buckets. No need to remove bumper and plastic etc. Then take the fenderwells of, remove the bolts that attach fenders to support and push the fenders so far out to the sides as they can. ( without chiping the paint on the doors) then you can support the fenders with jackstands. Then take the core support out. Replace what needs replacing. The put everything back. With a Jack then lift the rad support until the gap is good and the fenders align with the doors when the rad bushings are tightent. Then put the rest back,grill etc and done. You also loose alot of sqeaking and clunking when tightning up body bushings so its all good.

And dont Forget to loosen the bolts that holds the fenders at the bottom. There are. 2 bolts one inside the doorjam and one underneath the fender under the crometrim near the frame. No need to take the out just loosen them so the fender can move when you lift them in the front.
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Post by pila Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:45 pm

There are no new core supports available for these years, from what my search turned up. I rebuilt the one I used.

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Radiator support bushings. Empty 73 SS Core Support Bushings

Post by Jeff73SS Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:33 pm

I took my 73 SS apart a long time ago and am slowly getting it back together. My question is in the new core support bushings I purchased one rubber bushing has a metal (lets call it a stem) in it. I am assuming it supports the weight and goes between the frame and core support with the washer facing the frame and the rubber bushing should easily got through the support and protrude a bit (male) in order for the top portion of the bushing which goes on top the support (female) can comfortably fit together with it without one or the other being crushed more than the other? Also does the bottom bushing (male need to be pressed into the support as it does not want to stay in the hole unless under force.

Thanks,

Jeff

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Post by Bruisr Fri Jan 27, 2017 6:48 pm

Slowly starting to reassembly my 74 chevelle. Hoefully these will go along way to making the front sheetmetal line up better.
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