G3 diet plan for the street

As for the A-arms and spindles, I think you're going to lose a lot more weight in your wallet than you will on the car.

If the A/C compressor is the stock G3 model, you will save gondo weight -- in my Vintage Air build thread I compared it with the Sanden, and the difference was 50 lb for the stock unit versus 10 for the Sanden.

I can't speak to the Jegs mc & booster, but I can say upgrading to the later GM one like the Caprice will save negligible weight on the booster, but a fair number of pounds on the mc, since it's aluminum and plastic.  However, they're a matched set -- there's no mix-n-matching with the old G3 components, as the mc bore is larger in the later unit.

I don't see how you'll save anything on the alternator -- if you have the stock 10 or 12si unit, that's as small as it gets.  They only get larger from there, though not enough to make worrying about the weight worth it.  There are some 'mini' type alternators for race cars, but they do not produce enough amps for a street car.

My stock master cylinder weighs 8.8 lbs. I believe they used to say every 100 lbs. equals a tenth of a second at the track.

I didn't specifically weigh it (wasn't concerned about the weight savings), but I'd be really surprised if the Caprice master weighs over 2 lbs.

Sorry to be joining late;  I'd like to cover the changes I did and perhaps correct some of the earlier info (I didn't read the whole thread just now):

My car was 4100 lbs new (without me in it).  454, TH400, 3.42 posi.  Swivel buckets, console, rally cluster.  PS/PB, no A/C.

Lightest it has ever been was 3550 lbs (without me in it).  Weight has currently crept back up a bit due to the addition of the roll bar (60 lbs) and full 4" exhaust (60 lbs) and two full size batteries.  The GM bow tie pro stock Mk IV block was also heavier that a production MkIV block (50 lbs).  The car is currently sitting at about 3750 lbs (without me in it).

So, from memory:

Glass front bumper = 5 lbs.  Steel bumper (chrome) = 60 lbs
Steel reinforcement inside  bumpers = 60 lbs.  Bumpers are now held on with 1"x2" aluminum strap = 0 lbs
Glass hood (US body source - lift off) = 20 lbs.  Glass hood (US body source, bolt on) = 40 lbs.  Steel production hood = 80 lbs
Guard rail in door inner = 60 lbs ea
Swivel bucket bases = 60 lbs ea.  Seats are now sitting on 4" aluminum channel stock (with the plastic cover reinstalled)
Box sections of the frame forward off any front suspension attaching point and rearward of any rear suspension attaching point have been removed (leaving a C section)
Aluminum cylinder heads and aluminum water pump (painted orange).  Aluminum intake manifold.
Heater and blower motor removed
Removed wiper motor and linkage
Front and rear sway bars removed

I played around with aluminum/plastic brake master cylinders and never really found one I liked for pedal travel/effort/feel, plus they were failing about once per year for some reason.   I have the original cast iron unit on there now with no issues since then.

You'll notice I use Dzus fasteners on the hood, that way there are no hood pins.  All of the latch mechanism and structure are gone.  I also have the lift off hood Dzus'd to the hood hinges (via an adapter) so that I can open the hood by myself, or remove it completely by undoing the four fasteners.

I can also vouch for the 100lbs = 1 tenth rule of thumb.

I realize I'm leaving some weight savings on the table with the Corvette rally wheels.  Those have become kind of a signature item and so they stay (plus they are really easy to take care of and come in lots of different sizes).

K

I don't usually run into stuff, but I do on occasion hook the front bumper on the support cables of the enclosed car trailer (twice so far):



K

Ouch !!! That can be glassed and repaired. I always wanted a glass bumper and have it chrome plated like a plastic part.

Joe73 wrote:Ouch !!!   That can be glassed and repaired.  I always wanted a glass bumper and have it chrome plated like a plastic part.  

Done.  (Twice).  That was a couple years ago.

I always wanted a chrome fiberglass bumper, too.  But I was never happy with the quality of what I saw (or the price).  The one on the car now is painted argent with clear over that.

My engine builder has a chrome glass bumper on the front of his '65 Chevelle.  I think he's finally happy with it after three or four tries (with as many cross country trips).

K

In actually, just thought of it, you can have it wrapped.  Nowadays you can wrap your car with a thin film similar to window tint.  They have all different colors including chrome.

I'd give that a shot.  Easy to apply.  I think they get around $200 for a hood so a bumper should be way cheaper. The stuff is real cheap on ebay and you can do it yourself. Probably $25 or so and you can do it yourself. Lots of info on how to do it. Here's an amateur video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQEBvKOcsKw

I like this guys vette. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQrDImRSFHQ

i had a 2 door 73 a while back.  I scaled it at 3598 with me in it (160#) with an iron head sbc.
it had a gutted front bumper, pin on hood, no ac/heat, full glass and interior, and lots of little mods.
watch the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves.