Was quoted 10k by one body shop.
Just want the car to look better.
Moved to Vegas..no more worries about rust..it never rains.
Just want a decent respray.
Any thoughts ?
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That surface rust is the issue. If not addressed properly, it will be an issue again pretty quickly. Every "rust converter", "transformer" or whatever the company calls it work to an extent BUT there is issues with what topcoats are put on them. Automotive primers and paints dont adhere to the converters for long.
Only two ways I've found to be successful. First and best method is to blast the area. Preferably not sand because it causes heat on the body panels and the panels will warp. It can be done with sand if the person doing it knows how to keep the temp down. I prefer dustless blasting which uses fine recycled crushed glass and a extremely small amount of water. No heat build up and it can be done in your driveway. Blow out the nooks and crannys when done.
After blasting, I spray on and keep the area wet with water based wax and grease remover. Let is set for 5-10 minutes and wipe off. Do the whole car. Then I do the same process with mineral based wax and grease remover.
Then blow out the nooks and crannys from the wax and grease remover. Wax and grease remover evaporates pretty quickly.
Then I shoot 2 coats of 2k epoxy on everything as soon as possible. Adhering to induction times of the 2k (usually about 30 minutes when mixed) and the give it the full flash time the manufacturer recommends.
Now the car is ready for any bodywork, primer and blocking or whatever. When doing the bodywork, if you break through the epoxy primer, finish the bodywork your doing then shoot one coat of epoxy over the finished work.
Second process. I only use this for areas that are hard to reach for the blaster. And best for light surface rust, I would sand the area to remove an loose flaky stuff. Then I would work in a two foot area max. Wet the area with a product called OSPHO. Its a rust converter. It says it can be topcoated with paints and primers but dont do it. Guys have tested it and topcoats will fail but this stuff is great. Keep the area wet with the Ospho. Scrub the area with a red scotch brite pad while wet. Do that for 2-3 minutes to make sure you get all the surface. Then immediately wash off the Ospho with clean water and blow it dry. I then like to do the wax and grease remover steps I stated above. Then straight to epoxy on the piece your working on. You CANT LEAVE BLASTED OR TREATED PARTS EXPOSED to the air for long. Moisture in the air will cause them to flash rust very quickly.
Before you do anything, I'd go to Youtube and search Ospho. Lots of good info there. Especially the videos from MrFireman164. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yA8q4K-_Bo
By me, the local company will come to your place or you can bring the car to them and they will dustless blast the WHOLE exterior of the car for $800. Another $200 for the interior. And they do a great job. I think even if you could get the exterior blasted, wax and grease it and shoot some 2k epoxy all in one day, THEN bring it to Maaco and let them go from there. That would be your cheapest option and best chance of having a rust free exterior for the future.
This is the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCehkkTTeMk
This is the company I used. I had them do my boat trailer so I can dip it in galvanized steel. They did my whole chevelle exterior, underneath floor pans, all the doors and trunk lid inside and out, all the fenders, jambs and even my fiberglass hood.
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Maybe you can buy something for less than 10K.
Just a thought.
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