Clutch fork

by JF74chevelle Mon Oct 22, 2018 8:24 pm

Does anyone know where I can get the proper clutch fork for our cars? https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/PZ00840/

Is that the right one?

by pila Mon Oct 22, 2018 8:32 pm

Check with Rockauto. They may help verify the correct one .. ( and theirs will be less money too)

by JF74chevelle Mon Oct 22, 2018 9:00 pm

Okay it looks like I already have the right clutch for installed. I’ll elaborate more on the issue. Set up is a Muncie four speed with a ram clutch stock z-bar and mechanical linkage. When the car and all components are cold the clutch pedal feels like it should, nice and smooth. Once everything gets hot and driving around for awhile the pedal begins to get bind at the bottom of the travel when near the floor. The trans still shifts fine but it gets sometimes hard to push and it is not smooth. Is this a sign that the TO bearing and or clutch fork are lacking lubrication? I’ve adjusted the pedal for the proper amount of free play already. I have the proper clutch fork for the car. Here’s a video of the noise

https://youtu.be/tpvQWvNkC9Y

by Joe73 Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:42 am

Couple questions I have regarding the setup. Are you running a 3 finger borg and beck style clutch with the SHORT bearing? Or are you running the diaphragm style with the LONG bearing.

On the end of the clutch fork there is a metal clip with a bend in it. Its at the 12 and 6 oclock positions. Is your clip inside the groove of the throwout bearing? It needs to be. That clip holds the bearing secure. If the clip is on outside of the lip of the bearing, it flops around and could bind.

While normal driving, when do you start to feel the clutch engaging? Close to the floor or further up in pedal travel?

Did you dial in the bellhousing or scattershield prior to installation? Did you check for parallel from the face of the flywheel to the face of the bellhousing/scattershield?

Do you have long tube headers on the car? Is the linkage too close to a tube? I found to run long tubes headers with a manual, instead of denting the tube to clear the Z bar adjustment rod, its better to adjust the Z bar. Meaning, the leg of the Z bar that hangs down has a normal slight twist to it. And the the adjustment rod is supposed to go to the drivers side of the leg. If you simply twist the Z bar leg flat and put the adjustment rod on the passenger side of the leg, it will clear long tube headers easily with no mods to the headers.

by JF74chevelle Tue Oct 23, 2018 11:26 am

Joe I have a regular diaphragm clutch but I just used the TO bearing that was inculded in the kit. The clutch engages when in the middle of thebpedal travel. And I didn’t dial in the bell housing to crank center line because I’m using all stock parts no scatter shield or block plate. And yes I have long tube headers.

I guessing that the bearing retainer when it gets hot swells up and contacts the TO bearing causing the bind. Because it’s smooth as silk when everything is cold.

by Joe73 Tue Oct 23, 2018 11:43 am

Even stock parts are off. The more off centerline you are the more wear on the input bearing because the pilot bushing is not in line with the input shaft. Causes difficult shifting when hot on occasion.

I'm thinking its something in the linkage. Are the clips on the fork inside the bearing? You might be able to tell with a light and with the fork boot off. When not clipped in the bearing cant slide nicely on the input collar.

by JF74chevelle Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:11 pm

Joe73 wrote:Even stock parts are off. The more off centerline you are the more wear on the input bearing because the pilot bushing is not in line with the input shaft. Causes difficult shifting when hot on occasion.

I'm thinking its something in the linkage. Are the clips on the fork inside the bearing? You might be able to tell with a light and with the fork boot off. When not clipped in the bearing cant slide nicely on the input collar.

I would think they’re okay since it’s a smooth pedal when cold but when everything gets hot it starts to act up

by Joe73 Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:46 pm

I'd take a look with a light. How.much Freeplay do you have?

by JF74chevelle Tue Oct 23, 2018 2:46 pm

Joe73 wrote:I'd take a look with a light. How.much Freeplay do you have?

About an inch. I just readjusted it to make sure it was correct.

I used a pilot bearing instead of bushing, could this be contributing to the issue?

by Joe73 Tue Oct 23, 2018 3:34 pm

It shouldn't but I'm it a fan of those. The bearing only rides input bearing retainer on the trans.

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