is the Inline Tube brake combination valve correct for 73?

by clanceman427 Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:10 am

I have seen some discussions on this regarding the correct wire connection on some of the replacement brake combination valve for 1973 Chevelle. I found the Inline Tube ad on Ebay states they are the only ones with the correct connector for the brake warning light.

Has anyone used this Inline Tube replacement brake combination valve on their 73 and can you let me know if it was good/correct? Thanks! Here's the link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/71-77-Chevrolet-Disc-Drum-Brake-Line-Proportioning-Valve-Combo-Non-Adjustable/192444315105?fits=Year%3A1973%7CModel%3AChevelle&hash=item2cce9335e1:g:0lQAAOSwxJlaoY6V:rk:14

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by Joe73 Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:58 am

Hi Kevin. I did that research a couple years ago. I just checked my records and I still have the tag from it. PR102 is the part number I used and it fit my 73 harness correctly. No issues with the wire connection. I went through all the info years back for the same wire connection issue. But the PR102 went right in. Good luck with it.

by Mcarlo77 Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:59 am

I used it on my '75 Laguna and it works perfectly. I would highly recommend you use that plug that installs in place of the switch to keep the internal cylinder centered while bleeding the brakes. Can't seem to locate it on e-Bay right now, however.

by clanceman427 Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:18 pm

Perfect! thank you guys!

by clanceman427 Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:20 pm

good call on the plug, although I would hope that the brand new block would have a fully-functional push-button on the front to assist with re-centering if needed. The original button on my car seems to be completely rusted permanently in place! not even a hammer would move it!

by Joe73 Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:23 pm

Its probably rusted in place. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. Hence rust in a brake system. Thats why its recommended to change fluid every 2-3 years in a brake system. I have a mity-vac hand pump bleeder which makes the job easy with no pedal pumping.

by clanceman427 Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:53 pm

Joe73 wrote:Its probably rusted in place. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. Hence rust in a brake system. Thats why its recommended to change fluid every 2-3 years in a brake system. I have a mity-vac hand pump bleeder which makes the job easy with no pedal pumping.

I have one of those hand pumps too, very great tool! Very Happy

by Mcarlo77 Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:55 pm

Here you go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Combination-and-Prop-Proportioning-Valve-Bleed-Bleeder-Tool-PV2-PV4-Tool/152216419694?hash=item2370ce3d6e:g:XT0AAMXQVT9TBk9g:rk:2

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Makes the whole process of bleeding the brakes so much easier than fussing with the plunger on the end.

by clanceman427 Fri Jan 04, 2019 1:45 pm

Ordered! Thanks so much for the link Mcarlo77, what a huge help. Last thing I want to do is have to fuss with that plunger, or have to worry about going easy on the bleeding process.

by bigredlaguna Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:56 pm

As convenient as the mity vac is for bleeding the brakes, I still prefer having someone on the brake pedal while I work the bleeder valve. Every time I have used the vacuum for bleeding the system, there is always enough air to make a spongy pedal.

I do use the vacuum to change out the fluid, but then get my wife or daughter on the pedal to finish it up. I have never had a problem with the prop valve being unable to return to center on its own. Maybe it is because I don't hang the valve open very long. It is just open-shut in a split second, or about as long as it takes to actually say the words "open-shut".

I do this technique with the engine running so my helper can get max pressure on the fluid.

by Joe73 Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:01 pm

I also have Russell speed bleeders on all corners. They have a built in check valve so they cant suck air back in. Not that it makes a difference.

Big red, correct me if I'm wrong, but having the engine running only puts vacuum on the booster. It assists with applying the brakes only. You only get max pressure by pressing harder on the pedal, running or not. Please correct me if I'm missing something.

by bigredlaguna Sat Jan 05, 2019 2:47 am

The engine vacuum makes a tremendous difference in how much pressure the pedal man can apply. Manual brakes wouldn't matter, but that booster is there for a reason. The geometry of the foot lever just won't let the pedal man get adequate pressure without wearing themselves out.

I have also tried those bleeder valves, even those with a bit of sealant on the threads, but it seems like air always gets back in when the pressure is released. Maybe just my luck with that though.

As far as using vacuum to bleed the system, it seems to me the fluid just doesn't move fast enough to move the air out of the high points in the hard lines, especially if you are like me and keep letting the reservoir go dry or are replacing cylinders.

Having pressure on the pedal gets that fluid moving fast enough to make those bubbles move along efficiently. I also think that the quick open/close of the bleeder also shocks the combination valve a bit and keeps it in functioning order. When I bled the brakes on the 76 a couple of months ago, my wife said she saw the brake light go on and off so I know the shuttle valve works. I do believe the quick open/close is the key to this as it doesn't allow the shuttle valve time or pressure enough to get stuck one way or the other.

Anyway, this is why I am a fan of the old fashioned two person brake bleeding method. It has simply been more effective for me.

by Joe73 Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:31 am

Gotcha. I've never had the necessity of applying max pressure to the pedal. I never let the master run out of fluid when changing parts. Biggest air for me would be if I'm changing a master (which would be bench bled first) and I try to make it a quick switch. Then start the bleeding.

I've always had good luck with the speed bleeders and they work with the hand vacuum as well. Ive never had problems with air in the line using it. I think since the diameters of the tubing are so small, the bubbles get pushed along quite easily. I pump the vacuum up as high as it will go, crack the bleeder and shut it quick well before the gauge gets to zero. I can see nice flow through the clear tube.

I'm thinking about purchasing a pressure bleeder that mounts to the top of the master. Even the Harbor Freight one gets some good reviews.

by ant7377 Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:28 pm

That damn thing drove me nuts for a month. Do yourself a favor after installing it gravity bleed the whole system. Just open all the bleeders and keep an eye on the master so it dosent run dry. Go through it a few times. Buy a lot of brake fluid so you don't run out. That tool that holds the shuttle didn't work for me. Dont know why. I ended up using a Phoenix bleeder to center it. If you use 2 guy method pump very slowly so not to trip it. Good luck.

by Mcarlo77 Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:37 pm

I don't see how that bleeder plug wouldn't work. The plunger tip extends into the "v" groove in the internal piston so it can't slide back and forth during the bleeding process. Perhaps your piston wasn't centered to begin with?

BTW...I tried the gravity bleed system when I replaced the master and lines in the 'Guna. Didn't work worth a darn. Also tried the hand-held vacuum pump which also wasn't getting the job done like I wanted. Could have been the lousy pump...who knows. Went back to the tried and true by having a helper depress the pedal while I cracked the bleeder screw.

by ant7377 Mon Jan 07, 2019 12:31 pm

Mcarlo77 wrote:I don't see how that bleeder plug wouldn't work. The plunger tip extends into the "v" groove in the internal piston so it can't slide back and forth during the bleeding process. Perhaps your piston wasn't centered to begin with?

BTW...I tried the gravity bleed system when I replaced the master and lines in the 'Guna. Didn't work worth a darn. Also tried the hand-held vacuum pump which also wasn't getting the job done like I wanted. Could have been the lousy pump...who knows. Went back to the tried and true by having a helper depress the pedal while I cracked the bleeder screw.

I dont know. Maybe the tool wasn't made correctly. I had the tool in there at one point and it started to bleed then the flow stopped again. That was after taking the combination valve back out and centering with a pick tool. Drove me nuts. I say gravity bleed first just to get fluid everywhere,maybe valve won't trip as easy.

by clanceman427 Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:52 pm

Guys I got my replacement today but the brass plug was free floating in the bag. Is this correct or broken during shipping??

is the Inline Tube brake combination valve correct for 73? 3dca5a10

by ant7377 Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:05 pm

Mine was not like that ^^^. It was all together. Call them . I can't believe that little thing made me so crazy.

by clanceman427 Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:48 pm

Yep I bet it snappped off the thing was only rolled up in one of those mail padded plastic envelopes

by Mcarlo77 Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:21 am

Mine didn't arrive like that, either.

by Joe73 Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:38 am

Mine either. I think that busted.

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