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My rear is leaking!

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The Dude
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My rear is leaking! Empty My rear is leaking!

Post by Cdub74 Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:20 pm

Hey, I need a fix for my problem with my 10 bolt rear end. There is a small leak coming from between the diff and the right axle tube where the alxe meet the diff. Ive seem some guys just JB weld the seam, but Ive hear the tube can twist (due to my lage amount of hp). Any good ideas? Perminate fixes!
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Post by Limey SE Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:30 pm

sounds like maybe rust has set in how about switching housings ??

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Post by BlackChevelleSS Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:25 pm

weld the seam up, it helps make the rear stronger also.

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Post by pila Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:43 pm

A half inch weld in like 4 places around the joint should do it. Welding it all the way around is not a good idea, and not recommended, since it may weaken the axle tube next to the weld. That's called an "abrupt change of cross-section" in aviation tech terms.

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Post by Cdub74 Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:47 am

All weekend long Ive been looking how to fix this problem. Welding is going to be the solution for now. I was told be several locals to switch to a 9inch rear end due to the HP its pushing.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:22 pm

How much HP do you have?
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Post by Limey SE Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:27 pm

Cdub74 wrote:All weekend long Ive been looking how to fix this problem. Welding is going to be the solution for now. I was told be several locals to switch to a 9inch rear end due to the HP its pushing.

When you take these cars to " THE LOCAL'S " they are looking to make a buck to get you to switch out to there product these rears can take quite a bit of HP before needing help to handle

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Post by Cdub74 Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:31 pm

Ive got 580hp, they said "Yup thats alot of HP for a 10bolt, a 12bolt will still have the same tubes so the best rear end for you is a 9 inch". I think they are trying to make a buck off me.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:35 pm

That's definitely healthy!!! I like it. As far as your rear goes... they are full of crap. Maybe if you had an 8.2" 10-bolt instead of an 8.5", I would agree. However, You should be just fine. Weld up that hole and keep thrashing away.

I'm around 660 and haven't had a single issue. If you want, throw an aluminum girdle (rear end cover). It'll keep things in place internally. That's what I did.
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Post by Limey SE Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:43 pm

Cdub74 wrote:Ive got 580hp, they said "Yup thats alot of HP for a 10bolt, a 12bolt will still have the same tubes so the best rear end for you is a 9 inch". I think they are trying to make a buck off me.

Limey wrote:
Cdub74 wrote:All weekend long Ive been looking how to fix this problem. Welding is going to be the solution for now. I was told be several locals to switch to a 9inch rear end due to the HP its pushing.

When you take these cars to " THE LOCAL'S " they are looking to make a buck to get you to switch out to there product these rears can take quite a bit of HP before needing help to handle

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Post by Cdub74 Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:44 pm

Thanks, I though that was a lot of HP for that rear end. Theres NO WAY im going to buy a 9 inch now. Aluminum Girdle.....like this----->
My rear is leaking! Rearbo10
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Post by 74Malibu383 Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:45 pm

Yup. Just like that. They're a little pricey, but not even close to a 9" swap!
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Post by Limey SE Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:45 pm

that would be it

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Post by Cdub74 Mon Apr 18, 2011 1:49 pm

$139.99 for a gridle is SO much better then a $900-1,100.00 swap!
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Post by pila Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:33 am

A 9-inch set up for your car wont be cheap. The housing with the brackets, axles etc isn't bad, but when you add the third member, the brakes etc, it adds up fast.
A 12 bolt might make more sense for a step up in strength.

The torque your engine has is as much of a deciding factor as HP, for choosing a rear end that will hang together.

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Post by Cdub74 Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:41 am

Ill weld it for now this weekend, that see how she holds up on the strip Smile
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Post by The Dude Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:04 am

pila wrote:...A 12 bolt might make more sense for a step up in strength.

Actually an 8.5 10 bolt isn't much different from a 12 bolt. 8.5 10 bolt vs 12 bolt ring gear compares to 8.5" vs 8.875". Both share the same pinion gear size. Both have the same U-joint size. Our 8.5's only have 28 splines vs the 12 bolt's 30 splines, BUT a later model Caprice with 30 splines is a direct swap. Basically the only thing better would be the ring gear, which wouldn't make sense to go through the trouble of fabricating mounts & scouring yards to pay up the A$$ for a 12 bolt. Especially when you could just cryo treat your gears & then your 10 bolt would actually be stronger than a factory 12 bolt. Also on some earlier model 8.5 10 bolts & most BOPs, the axles are bolt-in vs the 12 bolts factory C-clip.
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Post by JB2wheeler Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:43 pm

My 74 Elky was bought new by my dad and it came from the factory with the Olds rear end with no C clips. I am running about 550 to 600 HP and I had Moser axles put in it. I have not put it to the supreme test with slicks on it, but it will do a good burn out with street tires. JB
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Post by Cdub74 Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:47 pm

Im scared to put slicks on my with the 10 bolt, but I'll weld the seem up for now see how it holds and look for a Moser alxe in the future.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:41 pm

I've run drag radials and full drag slicks. NO issues. Could yours give way? Maybe... I just haven't had any issues.
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Post by oldstofty Wed Apr 20, 2011 3:59 pm

The PO of my car ran low 11s on slicks but its pretty much just a 8.5 ten bolt housing. Moser axles full spool Richmond gear and an Ultimate girdle with support bars. You can spend a lot less cash making ur 10 bolt strong than buyin a 9 inch and makin it fit.
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