I really don't like the flat black and thought I'd try to fake a patina...

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Post by dhw3971 on Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:11 pm

....aaaaand it didn't turn out so great. Well, at least mistakes are easy to fix! I needed to cover up that brown door so I killed two birds with one stone: painted the odd door and tried my hand at wet-sanding. A LOT of wet-sanding.

Instead of a brand-new paint job I had to put my money into a new master cylinder, windshield seal replacement, transmission leak fixes and driver's seat upholstery. Next on the list: shorty headers and elimination of the side exhaust outlets. Yeah, they look cool but any trip over 30 minutes is tedious and droning.

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Last edited by dhw3971 on Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by BicknellWelding on Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:46 pm

I like it. Mine is the same blue underneath the flat black. Maybe if you only scuffed the edges of areas? The drivers fender is pretty good. And a season or two of weather, would bring out the right look.
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Post by Hawk03 on Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:24 am

Have you ever thought about wrapping the car or Plasti-Diping it? A cheaper and non-permanent alternative to paint (until you want to paint it).

https://www.dipyourcar.com/
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Post by jrb75 on Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:43 pm

I remember an episode of Trucks showing how to get the patina look, it was interrsting
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Post by 77mali on Sat Dec 15, 2012 1:17 pm

If you want to redo those areas you could use some small 3m sanding discs with a low speed rpm to scuff the blue and blend it into the black paint. They are a "hook-it" type & about 2" in diameter. Chances are it was a contamination issue of some kind that interfered with the bond. I would start with a 400 grit and see what that will look like. I'll post a pic of the discs I use on here if you want. I also use a semi-flexible disc pad.

Whose paint did you use?
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Post by dhw3971 on Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:24 pm

I'd still like to get rid of most of the black or fade them together better, so if you've got some pictures of the 3M discs that would help.

I just used some flat black with satin overspray to get the look right; if I made a mistake I just sprayed over it and sanded off the right amount. Later in the summer I sanded areas that would be more prone to wear, like leading edges and sharp body lines. Looks good enough for now.


The previous owner had it painted flat black and I always liked the baby blue. Once I have a gazillion dollars I"ll get her painted properly. At least right now I'm not afraid to damage the finish!
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Post by 77mali on Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:56 pm

Search 3M Gold abrasive discs. They're avail 50 per pack in many, many grit types. I got the felxible drill pad from one of the headlight restoration kits (can't remember which). If you have a "Fedrated Auto Parts" franchise near you call them, they may stock them. They're 3" discs & they work pi$$er. They'd work to blend the failed areas into the existing paint so you can re-coat them, Go slow- (low RPM) don't grind the paint just let the paper do the work. I have a low speed lock on my drill and when I use these, I just kinda "hold the weight of the drill" while prepping the surface. It takes a lot of patience not to press down on the surface. Finding the right grit might take some trial & error so if you have something to practice on- I would suggest that first if you haven't done a lot of body work before.

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