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oil pan

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Post by bykpainter Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:17 pm

Is it possible to change a small block oil pan while engines still in the car? Or is it just easier to pull engine? 74 malibu

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Post by Bruisr Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:25 pm

I read on this site, if you rotate engine to #6 TDC, you can pull the oil pan off. But, I believe you will still have to pull motor mount bolts and raise engine. But, you won't have to remove the engine.
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Post by bykpainter Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:29 pm

Bruisr wrote:I read on this site, if you rotate engine to #6 TDC, you can pull the oil pan off.  But, I believe you will still have to pull motor mount bolts and raise engine. But, you won't have to remove the engine.  
thnx bruiser thats what i figured

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Post by Bruisr Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:38 pm

BYK- I'm glad of the offer for the shifter and hood hinges, But I'm afraid I'll have to let them go! My situation doesn't seem to be getting any better, and I don't want you to have to wait on me. There's no telling how long it will be before I can spare any cash for parts. Thank You.
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Post by pila Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:13 pm

When jacking the engine, remove the distributor cap, which may contact the firewall, and check trans cooler line, and hoses while jacking it up.....and exhaust will likely need to be disconnected, or the manifolds or headers can be un-bolted & left in place.

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Post by Joe73 Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:05 am

Yes, its very easy to change the pan with the engine in the car.  I've done it several times.  
1.  You will need two small blocks of wood about the size of a red brick.  I actually used to use a red brick broken in half.  You will only be jacking up the engine about the height of the brick which is about 2 1/2 inches.  
2. Then take the distributor cap off and put it alongside the dizzy.  No need to disconnect the wires.  
3.  Rotate the engine so that the TIMING MARK ON THE BALANCER IS AT THE 6 OCLOCK POSITION.  That puts the counterweights of the crank up in the engine so the pan can come out.
4.  Remove the two motor mount through bolts.  Jack up the engine or lift it whichever you like.  I just put a small jack under the balancer and jack it up.  Once the engine is up about the 2 1/2 inches just lay your blocks on the frame and slide them down til they hit the motor mount.  Not on top of the mount but just when it touches.  That way when you lower the engine the block part of the mount lays on the block keeping it up.  

I have headers in my car and never had to disconnect them but thats your choice.  As for the trans lines, I have a stick so no lines, but I see any issues with leaving them on since your lifting in the center of there length.  

Actually a very easy job. Good luck with it.
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Post by pila Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:09 pm

X2 on what Joe said....Very Happy 

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Post by bykpainter Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:54 pm

Thnx guys,ill have to make a decision...previous owner put a new motor in the car but the pan they used is caved pretty badly...no pressure issues but i still dont like it

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Post by pila Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:35 pm

New plain steel oil pans are not expensive from Summit racing, and you can paint it to match.
They also have the plated ones.

Here's the plain one...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3500x

Just a bit over 30 bucks...

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