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Stripping bumper fillers

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Limey SE
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Stripping bumper fillers  Empty Stripping bumper fillers

Post by bitterfitter Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:19 pm

I am working on prepping my last few parts for paint. How would you guys strip the old paint off the bumper fillers? I don't want to melt the fillers with paint stripper

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Post by Limey SE Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:29 pm

aircraft stripper would work good I would Imagine
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Post by 77mali Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:41 pm

I planned to scuff the paint off.  Not working to well as there seems to be a lot of "layers" on an otherwise very nice rear bumper filler I got from a friend here.  Tried paper & buffing pads but goes real slow.

I might try a stripper & some coarse pads.  I've not stripped this type of plastic ever but might try a citrus based stripper- they're pretty safe.  Stay away from anything that has methylene chloride base- way too strong.  Have plenty of clean water & soap around & clean off real good.
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Post by Limey SE Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:51 pm

77mali wrote:I planned to scuff the paint off.  Not working to well as there seems to be a lot of "layers" on an otherwise very nice rear bumper filler I got from a friend here.  Tried paper & buffing pads but goes real slow.

I might try a stripper & some coarse pads.  I've not stripped this type of plastic ever but might try a citrus based stripper- they're pretty safe.  Stay away from anything that has methylene chloride base- way too strong.  Have plenty of clean water & soap around & clean off real good.

That's good info there I am planning on doing my new to me rear filler saved from derby buddy but its mint almost
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Post by chevellelaguna Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:47 pm

I wouldn't use aircraft stripper, they make one for plastic, I just used a DA with 180 paper on mine. You'll want to use an adhesion promoter first, then an epoxy primer, with activator for plastic parts not steel. Then primer then paint.
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Post by chevellelaguna Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:55 pm

Aircraft stripper isn't meant to be used on urethane type plastic... It'll be absorbed into the pores if the plastic and react with anything you spray over it.
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Post by 77mali Wed Mar 18, 2015 6:05 am

chevellelaguna wrote:I wouldn't use aircraft stripper, they make one for plastic, I just used a DA with 180 paper on mine. You'll want to use an adhesion promoter first, then an epoxy primer, with activator for plastic parts not steel. Then primer then paint.

Any recommendation on the epoxy primer brand? Thanks.

Yeah there are some real nasty paint strippers on the market, you have to be careful. Not to mention some can make you real sick, if you don't use the proper respirator gear (even when working outside). Ask me how I know, LOL.
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Post by chevellelaguna Wed Mar 18, 2015 8:27 am

I would use PPG DP epoxy...with DPLF40 hardener. A quart of hardener used to be $40 and you could buy the DP for about $50 a quart. It's pricy... But you could use it as a sealer before your first coat of paint as well, if you over reduced it 2:1:1.
Things have really changed in the paint industry....if you get a brand name product from say... PPG, RM,Keystone, most of it is interchangeable , of course the manufactures and the people that sell it will tell you it's not, because they want you to use their products exclusively. We've all used multiple products together with great success. PPG is incredibly expensive. For side work we would use Nason base...second line DuPont depending on color it's one fourth cheaper per gallon. And use Euro clear from Transtar. For an overall pain job.
You run into color match problems when you use cheaper bases... The pigments aren't as brilliant and the color variances don't match as well to factory colors.
Ask your local paint supplier for a direct to metal epoxy primer that can be used also as a sealer...and they can point you in the right direction.
If painting plastic/urethane
Sand with 180 remove all paint and factory primer till bare
Finish with 320
Wipe with wax and grease remover
Use adhesion promoter
Epoxy primer for plastic
Urethane primer
Sealer
Base or single stage
Clear
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Post by Joe73 Wed Mar 18, 2015 9:18 am

Do a google search for southern polyurethane and read the comments on their epoxy and universal clear.   Interesting info on them.  

And definitely check out the youtube tourture test of their epoxy.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yA8q4K-_Bo

Ill be using their.epoxy and clear on my car.

Very reasonably priced as well. And free shipping.
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Post by Wallyuph Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:21 am

I have been using Euro clear from Transtar for years. its what is on my car now. Just love the stuff.
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Post by chevellelaguna Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:34 am

Transtar euro clear us a really nice product, it doesn't haze over after it's been baked, is easy to level and buff a couple days after spraying. Some clears are too hard have to buff them immediately. It sprays really nice with great leveling. It looks like it holds up over the elements as well. We did the bosses daughters car 4 years ago with it, it sits outside never washes it, beats on the car and it looks just like it rolled out of the booth! Gotta watch some of the cheaper clears delaminate over time, or haze really badly.
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Post by 77mali Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:54 am

Great info- all you guys- Thank you.
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