1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build

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Post by Joe73 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 10:23 am

Good point. The rockers came with poly locks. How do I measure the girdles for correct fitment ? Havent run into that.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 2:10 pm

Measure the diameter of the base of the poly lock where it contacts the rocker. You’ll find it at .550 or .600. If you need anything Jomar can help you out with what you need.
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Post by Joe73 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 2:12 pm

I have the girdles already. I actually had everything for this engine all in storage for about 3-4 years. Except the heads which I bought a few days ago. Any idea how to measure the girdle itself? Of is it just a trial fit ? Thanks
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Post by Joe73 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 2:28 pm

Ok, just blew the dust off and opened the box of girdles.  They come with the long polylocks.   I measured the upper diameter and it well over .700 and they fit very snug in the girdle itself.  The base of the long poly locks is much narrower and would not fit the girdle.

I also measured the poly locks that came with the rockers and they are .595 diameter.
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Post by clanceman427 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 3:55 pm

Joe superb work as always! Loved seeing the progress pics!
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Post by Joe73 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 4:14 pm

Thank you. Just waiting for the new pushrods to be delivered. Hope to install on Monday.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Thu Aug 08, 2019 10:58 pm

Joe73 wrote:Ok, just blew the dust off and opened the box of girdles.  They come with the long polylocks.   I measured the upper diameter and it well over .700 and they fit very snug in the girdle itself.  The base of the long poly locks is much narrower and would not fit the girdle.  

I also measured the poly locks that came with the rockers and they are .595 diameter.
Ok measure the base of the girdle poly that seats on the rocker. It should be .600 like the polys supplied with the rockers.
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:57 am

Ray, your right on the money again. I see what your saying and I appreciate it. Never encountered this.

Well, my rocker polys are .600 and the girdle polys have a taper at the very bottom and they are .550.

I did a bunch of internet searching about it and and the consensus was (even from Straub) that its not an issue. But I'm glad you brought it up because Im not comfortable with it. Not that this is a "max effort" engine or anything and it will not have any track time but I like to keep everything the way it should be.

Ray, sent you a PM.
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Post by bracketchev1221 on Fri Aug 09, 2019 6:36 pm

No problem Joe. I responded back, and I’ll put a short answer here basically if it was not an issue why would there be multiple sizes and only .050 difference. I stick with what the rocker manufacturer supplies with their rockers.
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:57 pm

I agree, get ones to match. I sent you another pm. Thanks again.
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:40 pm

Quick update.  

Upper end it assembled, inner valve springs removed and valve lash/preload is set.  Thanks Ray for the tips.  
Fuel pump, alternator, balancer are all on.  Pulleys line up nice even with the new parts.

Was having second thoughts about again using a "T" for the stock oil pressure switch and mechanical gauge.  Especially since I have all new harnesses under the hood.  So I decided to pull and tap the port directly above the oil filter.  The port is usually plugged on earlier blocks, later blocks have a square drive pipe plug in it.  Its 3/8" NPT.

The port is only about an inch deep.  Easily accessible on the stand.  So I removed the oil filter and mounting boss (2 screws).  You can actually stick a wire or something in the hole going to the outside of the block and touch the plug.  So I packed the backside of the port with grease.  Drilled out the plug which came out easy.  I enlarged the hole to 37/64" (bought the bit on Amazon for $5 free ship) which is correct for a 3/8-18 NPT pipe tap.  Bought the 3 piece pipe tap kit at Harbor Freight.  I used the 1/4" tap to do the oil galley ports on the front of the block.  Drilling went quick as did the tap.  When done, I left the tap in it and cleaned the area all around.  Then removed the tap and cleaned in the hole really well.  

Plans are to use a 3/8" npt to -4an  45 degree adapter in this hole for the mechanical oil pressure gauge.  And just keep the stock sender next to the dizzy.  Probably going to have to get a short extension to move the 45 away from the block a bit since the hole is so close at the 6 o'clock position.  Have to wait to see if the headers block the area.  

Then onto the next item.  Aluminum heads as well as later model stock heads use a 3/8" port for the factory temp sensor.  Well, my 73 used 1/2" ports.  I wanted to use my original temp sensor on the drivers head but it doesnt fit.  And an adapter would bring it out too far.  So I ordered a Sierra TS25101 (200 degree) temp switch that looks stock and will fit the 3/8" port.  Sierra TS25101 is the same as Stewart Warner 83304 but way cheaper.   Stewart Warner does have a 83305 that is a 220 degree switch but they want over $40 bucks for it.  Dont think it was worth that.  I'll be running a 180 stat so a 200 degree kick on of my factory light would be extra visual insurance for temp.  

Same issue on the Passenger side aluminum head.  3/8" port again.  Autometer mechanical sender for water temp has an odd thread.  Autometer makes an adapter but I found a better deal with Equus 9851 which gives you 4 adapters for $10.  And one of them is the 3/8" npt for the head and 5/8" on the female side.  Issue solved.  So I'll have oil and water mechanical gauges and the factory dash lights as visual backup.

Thought I'd post those part numbers for people who need senders for 3/8" ports.  I didnt want to put the water temp sender in the manifold because I'll probably run the water bypass system on the manifold.  And it would be a cleaner look.  

1973 Chevelle SS, 350, 4spd. build - Page 11 Oil_po10
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Post by 73ss on Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:52 pm

Roller cam Joe?
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:54 pm

Negative. Flat Tappet I purchased in 1988. Been stored a long time. Sold the lifters from it. Going with Crower cam saver that have the .0005 flat edge on it for extra lube on the cam lobes.
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Post by 73ss on Fri Aug 16, 2019 7:11 pm

good idea. Do they have the little hole on the base of the lifter for extra oil?
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:38 pm

Negative. The ones with the hole at the bottom are Howards lifters. I like that idea as well and if I were buying a cam I'd get it from them. I was a bit leary of the hole on the bottom for some reason. I kept thinking that if some dirt got caught in there it wouldnt work since the hole is so tiny. I liked the idea of the Crower with the tiny slice on the side of the lifter. I figure yes there has to be a minute loss of oil pressure but not noticeable. And a lifter rotates in the bore while running. So oil would be lubing the lifter bore / and its whole circumference while oil is dropping on the the cam.
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