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Door latching-is my car needing adjustment?

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Post by clanceman427 Sat Sep 24, 2016 11:43 am

This is the NAPA I boughtDoor latching-is my car needing adjustment? - Page 2 Imag1613
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Post by clanceman427 Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:55 pm

If you wanted to you could make your own striker bushings and put them on your original strikers. Looks like they are just plastic 0.7" o.d., 0.545" I.d. and 0.725" long
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Post by 77camino Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:38 pm

I bought mine at O'Reilly's. I believe the package said GM truck. I did not use the striker, just put the new bushing on the original striker. Dont know if the new one would fit or not. I was planning on using the original striker when I bought it.
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Post by clanceman427 Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:55 pm

yeah, this napa part cost me 30 dollars, so there's no way I'm gonna pay 60 dollars to only use the plastic sleeves. I'll return this and make my own, since the metal components aren't 100% correct
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Post by KC77Monte Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:11 pm

So the sleeves are just plastic? My Monte doesn't have them and the doors rattle like crazy. Thinking about trying to make my own. I am taking it they just unbolt from the door jam
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Post by clanceman427 Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:15 pm

I actually just found a pair of the plastic sleeves by themselves on Ebay, 6.75 shipped. They were listed as 9/16" i.d. 11/16" o.d. and 3/4" long. Should fit the bill. no need to make my own.
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Post by clanceman427 Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:20 pm

KC77Monte wrote:So the sleeves are just plastic? My Monte doesn't have them and the doors rattle like crazy. Thinking about trying to make my own. I am taking it they just unbolt from the door jam

Yes they are a snap to take off, just need the correct Torx bit (at least that's what my 73 Chevelle has). It's the same torx size as the seat belt bolts. Just make sure to trace around your striker washer where it meets the door jam before unbolting so that you put it back on in the correct location and don't screw up the alignment. The car body has a captured nut so no need to take any interior pieces off.

I'd recommend going easy while trying to remove the striker, tighten it a little, loosen it a little at a time, in case there is corrosion. Mine came out real easy today so I got lucky.
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Post by clanceman427 Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:21 pm

just had another thought: if you don't have torx bits, my original strikers have 2 flats on the OD where the torx recess is, so you may be able to just use a wrench instead of the torx bit.
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Post by 77camino Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:56 pm

I know for fact that I did not pay anywhere close to $30. I'm sure it was $6 or $7 dollars. I agree I would not pay $60 for 2 pieces of plastic.
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Post by 77camino Sat Sep 24, 2016 11:04 pm

Just went and looked at the new striker that I did not use. It has the hex head, not the torx head. So yes it is not correct for our cars, but like I said earlier, I only wanted the plastic part.
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Post by Shaunaconda Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:19 am

You can buy a whole box of bushings for cheap on ebay.
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Post by KC77Monte Fri Sep 30, 2016 4:51 pm

So here is what I did. I took clanceman427 numbers and found these and cut them to the right length.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182152192986?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Now I couldn't get my strikers off, the torx would not go in far enough to get any bite so in fear of striping them out I stopped. I cut the pieces down the middle on one side and slipped them over the strikers. They fit tight and so far have worked great. Now the only rattle I hear is from the dash. Plus one piece is enough to do both doors, so I have enough left over to do it three more times when/if needed
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Post by Joe73 Fri Sep 30, 2016 4:55 pm

Awesome idea. I know tractor supply sells those bushings because I've purchased them there.
You can put a big vise grip or channel lock on the striker if need be. Works like a charm.
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Post by clanceman427 Mon Oct 03, 2016 8:56 pm

[quote="clanceman427]...  Also, factory striker has 2 flats on the o.d. where the recess is.[/quote]

Sorry guys for the misinformation. I just realized tonight while installi g my new striker bushings that the factory strikers DID NOT come with flats on the o.d. I was actually mistaking the worn areas on the o.d. of my original strikers for wrench flats. Anyhow, new bushings are on the factory strikers now and
the doors close a lot nicer. Hinge pin project is next.
Door latching-is my car needing adjustment? - Page 2 Imag1614
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Post by Hs1973 Tue Oct 04, 2016 2:02 pm

Elcaminostore and opgi amongst others have both the strikers and the bushings. I belive the bushings are like 2 bucks a piece. The strikers however eare pretty Pricey. I bought mine at Eddy motorsports, they have them in stainless steel both polished and natural they only sell them in sets of 2. I paid 40 dollars for the polished version. The natuaral finish is cheaper. If you change them out, dont Forget to buy the little plastic washer that goes on the tread end, so you dont scratch the paint.
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Post by clanceman427 Fri Oct 07, 2016 7:50 pm

clanceman427 wrote:yeah, this napa part cost me 30 dollars, so there's no way I'm gonna pay 60 dollars to only use the plastic sleeves.  I'll return this and make my own, since the metal components aren't 100% correct

To be fair the NAPA part actually costs $15, not $30. I forgot that I paid for 2 when I was there.
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Post by clanceman427 Tue Feb 28, 2017 9:12 pm

I have my passenger side door hinges completed, and I rebuilt them with all new bushings, and the roller wheel for the 2 open positions was nice and rolled straight so I left it alone. My passenger door opens and shuts like a dream! Just a slight 2 finger lean on the door and it closes completely with a single, confident "rumphf." Very satisfying.

So I have moved on to the drivers side, and as I expected, things are in worse shape since this door got used much more. Take a look at these pics. After I removed the spring from the upper hinge, the roller wheel was real loose and I was able to just slide it off with my fingers. Looks like there is a plastic bushing that goes on the big pin, that is worn out/broken. My question is- Do you just get a replacement bushing for that wheel? Is there supposed to be something that captures the wheel at the bottom of the pin, so it's captured? I'd imagine something like that might not be necessary, since the wheel is kept in line to roll by the sweeping follower.

Door latching-is my car needing adjustment? - Page 2 Imag1918
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Door latching-is my car needing adjustment? - Page 2 Imag1917
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Post by chevellelaguna Wed Mar 01, 2017 6:26 pm

Kevin they used to sell a roller rebuild kit. Haven't seen one in awhile though. If you can't find it let me know I have spare hinges with good rollers
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Post by clanceman427 Mon Mar 06, 2017 3:59 pm

Thank you! Looks like I probably only need the split metal retaining ring and the plastic bushing underneath the roller if your spare hinge has them. Lemme know, thanks!
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Post by g3chevy / Mr Pontiac Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:40 pm

Here's a solution for the roller issue.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/73-77-GM-A-Body-Door-Hinge-Repair-Rebuild-Detent-Roller-Bushing-Pin-KIT-/251378437313?fits=Year%3A1973%7CModel%3AChevelle&hash=item3a87528cc1:g:wu0AAOSwzaJX4Dox&vxp=mtr
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Post by clanceman427 Tue Mar 07, 2017 7:35 am

Thanks yes I did see that kit, but I was trying to avoid that one since I'm only in need of one retaining ring, and perhaps one roller bushing.
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