problems with my bruiser

by nowforever13 Fri Jan 27, 2017 1:17 pm

problem#1 so here in the recent weeks of me driving her to town and back ive come across a problem.... upon every start i have to push my column shifter way up into park (while its already in park) or else it wont even start. i have replaced the neutral saftey switch and have adjusted the shizit out of it but that yields nothing. any help?
Problem#2 limey knows about this one. i am having issues rewiring up my lights my old plastic connectors broke and i decided to get new ones that arent color coated............. Sad

i cant seem to wire them up right no matter how many combinations i use. limey sent me a pic of the way his went and i went by that but it didnt work. ive replaced my high beam switch thinking that was the problem. but what happens is all 4 lights will come on. one brighter than all the others. but when i hit my H.B. switch 2 lights on the driver side only come on could any one send me a light diagram showing where all the wires go?
p.s. i bought false projector lights and but 9006 or what ever the 3 pronged headlight bulb is if that means anything

by thatfnthing Fri Jan 27, 2017 1:49 pm

nowforever13 wrote:problem#1 so here in the recent weeks of me driving her to town and back ive come across a problem.... upon every start i have to push my column shifter way up into park (while its already in park) or else it wont even start. i have replaced the neutral saftey switch and have adjusted the shizit out of it but that yields nothing. any help?

I'm thinking it's still gotta be an issue with the safety switch -- they can easily get out of adjustment. But here's the test to be sure:

At the safety switch, disconnect the purple (PPL) and purple with double-white stripe (PPL/WHT) and splice them together temporarily. This bypasses the switch entirely, and the car should now try to start with the gear selector in any position -- obviously you don't want to try starting it in anything but Park or Neutral, but it should now start reliably in Park without having to jam the shifter up. If it works consistently, the switch is your problem.

nowforever13 wrote:Problem#2 limey knows about this one. i am having issues rewiring up my lights my old plastic connectors broke and i decided to get new ones that arent color coated............. i cant seem to wire them up right no matter how many combinations i use. limey sent me a pic of the way his went and i went by that but it didnt work. ive replaced my high beam switch thinking that was the problem. but what happens is all 4 lights will come on. one brighter than all the others. but when i hit my H.B. switch 2 lights on the driver side only come on could any one send me a light diagram showing where all the wires go?
p.s. i bought false projector lights and but 9006 or what ever the 3 pronged headlight bulb is if that means anything

So in normal mode all 4 lights are on, and when you turn on the hi-beams the two on the passenger side go out? It sounds like we have the modes reversed, and the wrong feed to the bottom light on the left (s/b top right) for normal mode. Can you post any pictures of the wiring at the lights -- preferably with the wires colors visible?

In any event, one light brighter than the others is most likely to be bad grounds on the other 3. Disconnect them and sand the crap out of them on both the terminal and where they screw to the radiator brace.

by Limey SE Sat Jan 28, 2017 1:26 am

Mine still do that also I am leaning towards Bad wiring and Looking to redo WHOLE VEHICLES harness from sitting for so long, I am thinking little squeaker were abaundant in Kansas and decided to eat some plastic ( I HATE MICE FOR THIS REASON AND WOULD BLAST EVERY LAST ONE IF I COULD)

by bigredlaguna Sat Jan 28, 2017 3:16 pm

I would save some money and get a new wiring harness. You can get them brand new built to factory specs. Mice aren't the only problem, time degrades the plastic parts and insulation to the point that if you simply move the wire the insulation falls off. It's a pricey solution, but guaranteed to solve the issue for years to come.

by pila Sat Jan 28, 2017 10:11 pm

One thing to consider, is when the ground for lights is on the radiator core support, running a stout ground wire between the core support and the frame may help, along with a good engine to frame ground. I did all those when I built my Elco...

Here's one from the frame to the body....

problems with my bruiser P1010793_zpsmwee43rl

problems with my bruiser P1010793_zpsmwee43rl

It seems like may electrical problems end up to be grounding issues...

by Damon23 Sat Jan 28, 2017 10:36 pm

I second the grounding. I went thru hell finding gremlins. Replaced all the ground straps and the car just acted so much better. But, in the end I still need a new alternator.

by pila Sat Jan 28, 2017 11:17 pm

I just answered another thread here, about rebuilding alternators, if you are into doing it. I rebuild my own & keep spares !! Very Happy

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