Speed Bleeders

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Post by Mcarlo77 on Thu Nov 21, 2019 9:20 pm

Seems I have a leak at the rear of the master cylinder (between the m/c and booster) on the Laguna, so I'm guessing the rear seal is the culprit...leading to the fun job of swapping in a new m/c and bleeding the system, again.  Sucks because I just went thru the whole brake system about 5 yrs ago on this car.  Anyway, I've always relied on the tried and true method of a helper pumping the brakes while I opened/closed the bleeder screw.  But, it's a hassle trying to corral someone to help.  I bought a MightyVac pump kit a few years ago, but it never seemed to work efficiently for me.  Tried gravity bleed method and that didn't work.  Now, I'm considering installing some solo bleeders so I don't have to rely on a helper.  Anyone using these?  Any particular brand better than others?  Seems I read at one time that they can be problematic years after installation, but can't remember the details.  Can only assume it had something to do with the check ball sticking in the open position?


Last edited by Mcarlo77 on Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by JF74chevelle on Thu Nov 21, 2019 10:34 pm

I have speed bleeders on the front brakes but not the rear drums. No problems for me
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Post by 76 Malibu on Thu Nov 21, 2019 11:07 pm

I have used them before on several cars for the same reasons your are considering them. They worked well for me. The only issue is the thread sealant can wear off and allow air in through the threads.
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Post by ant7377 on Thu Nov 21, 2019 11:07 pm

Maybe use em to bleed initially then swap for normal ones when done. I hate dealing with that part of the system.
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Fri Nov 22, 2019 1:01 am

Maybe it was the thread sealant issue that I have vague memories of reading about. But, why would the threads be any different than on std bleeders? Maybe one particular brand had issues? I was looking at the Earl's bleeders...but geez, they're $20/pr!
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Post by 76 Malibu on Fri Nov 22, 2019 8:48 am

The issue is when you lift off the brake, if the thread sealant isn't working, air will get sucked in through the threads. With a standard bleeder this isn't an issue, because it is tightened up before you let off the brake.

I suppose you could try to apply more sealant it becomes a problem. I have used the Russell and Doorman speed bleeders with no issues so far.
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Post by impalamonte on Fri Nov 22, 2019 9:19 am

Mcarlo77.....years ago I had the same issue with a MityVac....didn't seem to achieve the results I wanted either. I too not wanting to grab a friend to help in the mundane job of "pumping and holding " the brakes.

Go online to the You Tube and several videos there of how to make your own one man brake bleeder....with a water bottle!
The amount of guys that have done this and then posted is mind boggling.

Watch two or three....or ten . Then cobble something together with ideas from each.

This is what I have done with all of my brake upgrades over the last 3 years. They seriously work !!!
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:40 am

76 Malibu wrote:The issue is when you lift off the brake, if the thread sealant isn't working, air will get sucked in through the threads. With a standard bleeder this isn't an issue, because it is tightened up before you let off the brake.

I suppose you could try to apply more sealant it becomes a problem. I have used the Russell and Doorman speed bleeders with no issues so far.


I guess I still don't understand why the threads on the speed bleeders wouldn't be made to the same specs and perform just as well as on std bleeders? Afterall, they both are loosened and tightened during a bleed. Earl's does seem to have a better idea with the spring-loaded plunger to prevent air from entering even if it were to work it's way past the threads.

Always open to home remedies. I'll browse the YouTube videos as suggested and see what the home-made bleeders can do for me, too.
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:50 am

I put speed bleeders in all my cars and they have been great!   PM sent

Also, if you put a hose on the bleeder and have it going upwards a few inches, then looping 180 degrees down and into a catch bottle. Every time you pump the pedal bubbles will come and rise to the top in that couple inches. But still keeping fluid close to the bleeder so air cant reenter.

Id throw a rebuild kit in the master if theres no rust in the bore. Easy job.
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Post by bigredlaguna on Fri Nov 22, 2019 6:43 pm

I use my old pickup for a vacuum source. I get enough vacuum tubing to go around the car and then just let the engine vacuum pull the fluid through. You wouldn't believe how quickly you can do a fluid flush with a steady 20 inches of vacuum vs. getting hand cramps on a mighty vac. No mess to clean up either.
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Post by Joe73 on Fri Nov 22, 2019 7:27 pm

Very cool idea bigred.
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