1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali

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Post by 77mali on Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:28 pm

74MonteCarlo wrote:My car needs a new core support...ugh. Everythings looking good...love seeing pics of your progress

Can't you fix it? Even if it's rusted through she can be welded up...no?
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Post by 74MonteCarlo on Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:36 pm

It might be able too...one of the body mounts is almost all the way through.

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Post by 77mali on Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:42 pm

Was testing clearances on my semi- home made engine test stand, cam breaker-inner thingy. Headers cleared but will need a heat shield for the wood to be safe.
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Started some assembly. Rear main seal is in but lost 1 bolt...Cam & lifters are in and rods & rocker assemblies are in loosey-goosey.
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Timing chain installed (set to 0* with cam) not sure if I should be advancing to 4* before TDC?) Anyone advancing or retarding timing by 4 degrees?
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Post by 77mali on Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:10 pm

lol! ....forgot to line up the timing marks on the sprockets. Gonna stick with it @ zero degrees.

Good thing I double checked myself before installing the cover & pan, etc. That would have sucked.
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Post by pila on Tue Oct 23, 2012 10:15 pm

I really like the blue silicone rubber pan gaskets. Very Happy You planning on running that engine on that stand ?? It would be safer when it's bolted in the car. One touch of the throttle may tip the whole works over from the torque..... BE CAREFUL !
Advancing the cam like 4 degrees, makes for more low end power/torque, which makes good sense for a daily driver. Retarding the cam is better for high RPM power. Straight-up may be the best way for you.

BILL

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Post by WyldeBill66 on Tue Oct 23, 2012 10:42 pm

I was looking at the timing marks on the gears and thought that didn't look right. I'm glad you caught it too. That could have ruined a whole lot of work, and made a whole lot more. Good catch.

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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:25 am

pila wrote:I really like the blue silicone rubber pan gaskets. Very Happy You planning on running that engine on that stand ?? It would be safer when it's bolted in the car. One touch of the throttle may tip the whole works over from the torque..... BE CAREFUL !
Advancing the cam like 4 degrees, makes for more low end power/torque, which makes good sense for a daily driver. Retarding the cam is better for high RPM power. Straight-up may be the best way for you.

BILL

The stand will be screwed to the floor in the shop via some large metal straps & now that I've thought about it a little more the wood & casters will be taken off during the break-in process. The four large bolts that connect the wood to the cradle make it easy to remove. I'll use some solid 4" concrete blocks as a base also so the headers are off the floor. No worries Very Happy
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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:35 am

WyldeBill66 wrote:I was looking at the timing marks on the gears and thought that didn't look right. I'm glad you caught it too. That could have ruined a whole lot of work, and made a whole lot more. Good catch.

I've been real sick with a bad cold. I'm blaming it on the medicine. Wink
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Post by pila on Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:19 am

Not to press the issue, but how are you going to cool it during the run-in ??

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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:29 am

The core support & radiator are also out- it'll be just like the thing is in the car, minus the torque converter & trans. Also getting a small gauge set up & small tachometer. Will run gas in via a small 2 gallon tank which will be attached to the core support on the opposite side of the engine- if that makes sense.
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:33 am

I'd also put the biggest fan you can find in front of the rad when she's running.
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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:49 am

What's wrong with the fan on the engine? Not enough cooling power?
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Post by Joe73 on Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:04 am

The engine fan wont pull near the cfm a good drum fan will put out. The engine wont be moving pushing air into the rad. A fan in front of the rad will help give it the additional cooling as if it were driving.
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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:13 am

Oh, I see what you mean...thanks for the tip- I do have a decent fan that can do that job.
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Post by pila on Wed Oct 24, 2012 5:41 pm

OK, that sounds like you have a plan !! Very Happy The extra fan is a good idea & suggestion. One other thing, if you are running just a flex plate on the engine, it will rev QUICK ! Even quicker than with an aluminum flywheel. Just so you are prepared Very Happy Flat tappets ? 2200 for 25-30 minutes, as you likely already know, and NO idling. I forgot which lifters you have in there..
Hope it goes good during the break-in...

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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 24, 2012 5:55 pm

I have Magnum roller rockers which are designed like the flat tap style but w/ the roller on the bottom. If I bolt on the torque converter will that help decrease the high rev? I could do that and plug the shaft no problem. Thanks for the heads up. I don't think I'll be doing anything until this weekend at the earliest. Hope to post a video of some of it. I have yet to fully read the Comp Cams instructions and want to get some Joe Gibbs BR oil for the 1st run. I loaded the cam up with the red lube that came with it & I bought some Lucas Oil equal for the bottom of the lifters as I ran out. She should be good to go but I still have to put all the "tins" on yet, oil pump, fill the new lifters with oil and lash the heads. I might also opt for a new distributor cap too to be safe.
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Post by pila on Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:58 pm

The valve lash is easier to adjust if the lifters aren't too full of oil, so that you can see the plunger in the lifter move, while setting the pre-load. Is that oil you mentioned, a non-detergent type break-in oil ?
It will be a great feeling for you when you get it running & broke in !! Beer

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Post by 77mali on Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:14 am

Yes the Joe Gibbs "BR" is a high zinc oil and it has other chemicals in it too that is designed for the break in process. They also have a "racing oil" similar to the Valvoline race oil that is avail @ NAPA for regular use.

Did you catch the torque converter question? Wondering if it will help with flywheel rev you mentioned previously? Thank you Bill.

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Last edited by 77mali on Thu Dec 13, 2012 6:37 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Added pic)
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Post by pila on Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:40 pm

I didn't see the converter question, but an empty converter bolted on the flex plate should work fine to help it not rev so quick.

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Post by BicknellWelding on Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:13 pm

Did Mali make it through the storm ok? Its outdoors right?
I'm still without power, running off the generator. At least the beers cold.
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Post by Laguna Budman on Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:46 pm

Amen to that!!!!
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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 31, 2012 12:00 am

BicknellWelding wrote:Did Mali make it through the storm ok? Its outdoors right?
I'm still without power, running off the generator. At least the beers cold.

Sorry to hear you have no power Phil- I got to get me a generator & cut down a few big a$$ trees. I'm glad to hear you have a generator but if you need anything call me. Mali lost her 2 year old car cover (ripped to shreds) but I have a HD tarp under that & its strapped down to the frame. We got lucky no major damage in our area & we have power when the other half of the street doesn't- go figure.
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Post by JB2wheeler on Wed Oct 31, 2012 1:30 pm

That tarp will cause rust issues. It can not breath and will trap moisture under the tarp. I have my two remaining cars in the garage now and have a new car cover I would give you if you lived locally, but you can buy a cover for what it would cost to ship it. JB
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Post by 77mali on Wed Oct 31, 2012 4:27 pm

Your probably right JB. None of these so called "waterproof" car covers actually are waterproof- only "weather-resistant". In a hurricane it doesn't matter how many layers they have. The tarp I use is reinforced and fire-rated and is totally waterproof. I am using Por 15 products, so I'm not too worried about the rust. After the car gets further along I'll put it in storage to keep it out of the elements.
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Post by 77mali on Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:13 pm

Fixed the timing set up
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Installed oil pump, pick up screen & shaft, timing cover rear main & oil pan.
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I might have used a little too much black Hi-temp in the corners...LOL
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