Trunk lock

by 1973 Buick Century Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:59 am

So I can not get into my trunk on my '76 MC. The key worked when I picked it up Sunday and now, no go.

Anyone have any tricks or ideas on what I can do? Drill it out? Take a screwdriver and punch it in? Take out the back seat?

Thank you,

Jonathan

by 77ElClassic Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:20 am

Two possiblities;
1. You may be able to get to the slide clip that holds in the lock. It may be under the lid above the rear plate and have a rivet holding it in place. I'm not sure if that was the case on the MC or not.
2. Pop the rear seat and remove the 2 bolts holding in the seat back and go thru the trunk.

by Tom77 Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:00 am

77ElClassic wrote:Two possiblities;
1. You may be able to get to the slide clip that holds in the lock. It may be under the lid above the rear plate and have a rivet holding it in place. I'm not sure if that was the case on the MC or not.
2. Pop the rear seat and remove the 2 bolts holding in the seat back and go thru the trunk.

x2 that is the least intrusive way. One other thing try wd40 in the lock if the car sat for awhile a tumbeler may be stuck.

by 1973 Buick Century Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:41 am

77ElClassic: Yes, I do have a riveted plate under the lock cylinder. So could I drill out the rivet and get to the lock from there?

Ghost Rider: I stuck some silicone in there in hopes it would open the trunk just once so I can clean the cylinder or just replace it.

I have a feeling I will just be pulling the rear seat out.......

by Mcarlo77 Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:42 am

I've had to unlock a number of trunks out in the yards I search that had no keys...and, by far the easiest method is to remove the back seat and use a couple of long socket extensions with a 7/16" socket to reach back and remove the latch bolts. However, be advised that those seat belt retractor bolts (torx) that also hold the upper seat back brackets in place will need to come out in order to remove the seat back. That can be a real challenge if the car is rusty underneath. Other option, I suppose, is to cut those brackets to free them from the bolts if they can't be removed. Definitely try to avoid drilling or punching the lock. You'll most likely damage the hole or trunk lid around the hole. Never tried drilling out that rivet while the lid is down as I didn't think there was enough space under there to get things done.

One last attempt with the key might help. My Laguna had a problem with the key not wanting to open the lid. I had to find just the right spot when inserting it before it would turn. Didn't matter how much WD40 I sprayed in there. Good luck!

by JB2wheeler Wed Aug 01, 2012 10:42 am

Is it worth a dollar to take a good chance on opening it? Just have a new key made and a lot of times it will work where the old key would not. JB

by Mcarlo77 Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:29 am

Good point, JB...just might get lucky.

by 1973 Buick Century Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:33 am

Well guys I pulled the back seat out, added up all my extensions and unbolted the latch. Drilled out the rivet that holds a bracket in place to hold the lock cylinder.........now I have a trunk that works.

I got a key cut, did not work.

Be that as it may, thank you everyone for the suggestions and ideas!

by 74MonteCarlo Fri Aug 03, 2012 10:57 am

Getting keys cut for old cars can be a pain. I had a set of Genuine GM key blanks from NPD, that I took to the Chevrolet dealer to be cut. Original 1974 bill of sale for the car in hand, with key numbers. The lady used the old style key gun. Still didn't work. But, with very careful precision, I lined up the new key with the cold key, clamped them in a vise, and took a fine file to the high spots on the new key, to match the wear to the old. They work perfectly.

For some reason, when I got my car, it didn't have the original GM keys. Just one copy of the ignition, and two lock keys. So, that's why I got the GM keys made.

by Limey SE Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:34 pm

The SE Came with a Separate GM key for Trunk and doors then separate one for Glovebox and Ignition Key all GM prob switched glovebox key I guess, Never heard of 3 keys with one Car

by 1973 454 MONTE Fri Aug 03, 2012 2:40 pm

My 73 ignition matches my doors and trunk matches glove box. 73s were that way from the factory. I bought blanks off fleebay and took them to hardware store and had them cut. Never any problems.

by 1973 Buick Century Mon Aug 06, 2012 1:01 pm

74MonteCarlo wrote:Getting keys cut for old cars can be a pain. I had a set of Genuine GM key blanks from NPD, that I took to the Chevrolet dealer to be cut. Original 1974 bill of sale for the car in hand, with key numbers. The lady used the old style key gun. Still didn't work. But, with very careful precision, I lined up the new key with the cold key, clamped them in a vise, and took a fine file to the high spots on the new key, to match the wear to the old. They work perfectly.

For some reason, when I got my car, it didn't have the original GM keys. Just one copy of the ignition, and two lock keys. So, that's why I got the GM keys made.

I think that is what I will be doing myself. Its a little detail that may not be noticed by many but to me the details can make or break a car.

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