Re: Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum

by BBMALIBU Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:01 pm

cutlassguy wrote:I just installed a 2 row with 1" tubes Be Cool rad with a 195deg thermostat in my 76 olds cutlass.
Was running a 3 row copper rad.

I only drove the car about 1 hr in 38-40 humidity up here the past week. It kept the car between 205-210 on the gauge.

As for the 15% cooler they claim in not so sure about that, the 40% weight savings.. for sure.
Other than that the rad looks awesome in the car and I'm always looking at dropping more LBS off the old 76.

Hope this helps others looking into purchasing the Be Cool Rads

Eric

Correct me if I am wrong, but Old's motors tend to run warmer than Chevy's.

Not knowing how the 3 row performed, 205-210 with a 195 t/stat sounds pretty good. Especially since the t/stat is probably fully open past the 200 degrees mark.

Are you running a clutch fan? If so, is it a heavy duty one?

by Joe73 Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:04 am

40% humidity and keeping 205-210 would not be acceptable to me. A cooling system should keep temps real close to stat temps.

Alot of guys running big blocks with with 600+hp and keep temps at 180-195 depending on stat with a/c on in 95+ degrees. And thats without electric fans. (I also dont think electric fans are the way to go).

All the cooling parts have to work together.

Real good, but looong, read here. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606465

Gives all the part numbers for a stock type setup that will have awesome cooling without breaking the bank. BTW, according to the tests done in that read, Auto Zone has two stats (180 and 195) that out perform aftermarket type stuff.

If you want great cooling especially in hot weather. Take the time and read the thread. They list all the part numbers needed. And everything will look stock.

by cutlassguy Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:30 am

BBMALIBU, Yes the Olds engines do typically run warmer than the Chev's from what I have read. I'm running a steel 6 blade fan with the Hayden standard clutch. ( The H/D was just too noisy for my liking.
Since the temps have dropped significantly this past week to 26-28 with minimal Humidity I found the car to be running cooler.
Joe, thanks for the thread you posted, interesting read. I do run the Miloden H/V aluminium water pump with a Napa high-flow T-stat. (robertshaw I believe)
Given last weeks unbearable heat I noticed running as high as 205-210 when in traffic. That's going by a manifold temp gauge to a summit triple gauge set-up.
This past week, the wife and I were on a good journey for about 1 1/2 hrs, I didn't see the temps go past 185-190 travelling 60MPH average. 190 in traffic
Now on the 3 row copper (not bad shape) ran between 205-210 even 215 at times in traffic.
I have yet to determine what will be the happy medium for the car and set-up. Going with a 180 t-stat or just leaving things as is.
I appreciate your feedback and reading the post to do with a cooler running engine.
I hope to drive the car a bit more and record outside temps and engine temps before having to put away for the winter.

Eric

by pila Thu Sep 17, 2015 8:20 pm

The Be Cool brand is too pricey for me, even though I know the folks that I build them near here, in Bay City Mi..
I may have been able to get a deal on one, but I don't like to be beholden to people for favors...

I bought a 3-row Champion aluminum, to cool the 500 Caddy engine in my Elco. Seems to work OK....180 thermostat, and it reads 180 when up to temp...

by cutlassguy Thu Sep 17, 2015 9:55 pm

A cooler running engine is often a better running engine I know, I've always run a 195 t-stat through the summer months. Are you guys finding the 180 is better? My car is parked from the end of Oct-mid April.
The 180 may be better for my Olds I don't know.

Eric

by BBMALIBU Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:44 pm

cutlassguy wrote:
This past week, the wife and I were on a good journey for about 1 1/2 hrs, I didn't see the temps go past 185-190 travelling 60MPH average. 190 in traffic Eric

Since you are using a 195 t/stat, and your temp didn't go past 185-190, sound like your t/stat may be stuck open.

If the t/stat was working properly, the engine would warm up to 195 and then it would start to open.

Did you check the t/stat before installing it?

I went through a few new ones before I found a good one. It includes a brand new Stewart, 180 degrees, high flow, balanced, with bypass holes...damn thing didn't start opening until 200 degrees.

by cutlassguy Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:52 am

I didn't check the T-stat before I put the new rad in. Put it in last summer when I changed the water pump. I just figured it should be OK. Happy you mentioned that now, When I was running it to get the air locks out, it took about 20 min to see flow coming through the tubes before I topped it off and cap it. Although I had heat after about 10 min running. So I just assumed it had opened up once I got heat.
You've got me thinking to pull it and replace now. I really wanted to hang the wrenches up for this year damit.
You think I should pull it ? Suggest 180 or go with another 195

by BBMALIBU Fri Sep 18, 2015 10:37 pm

cutlassguy wrote:
You think I should check the t/stat ? Suggest 180 or go with another 195

I would take it out and check it.

180 or 195.....Do you want your engine to operate above or below 200 degrees?

by Silentknight85 Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:15 am

I had my buddy, who works in auto retail, call one of their radiator vendors for me to see if he could get me a good deal on an aluminum 2 core 1"+ tube radiator for my 74. He was advised that "multi core radiators are no longer 'modern'", whatever the hell that means. This from a radiator manufacturer/vendor. They advised and offered an aluminum/plastic radiator with 1 core and a 1.5" tube for $90. I am extremely skeptical about this information and the radiator. Any thoughts?

by Joe73 Thu Oct 27, 2016 7:39 am

Murray 433222 has 2 1 inch tubes. That with a Hayden 2747 clutch on a stock 7 blade fan. Fan half way in the shroud will keep a monster big block cool with a.c..on in the summer. That's what I will be running on my small block.

The.Murray rad is about 100 bucks and has plastic tanks. If you want all aluminum I'd get a DeWitts or Be Cool.

And engine timing is very important.

by Wallyuph Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:15 am

I have a dual cross flow from Entropy. They make them them here in the USA

http://www.entropyrad.com/1968-1977-chevelle-aluminum-lsx-conversion-radiator-with-dual-fans-and-aluminum-shroud.html

by pila Thu Oct 27, 2016 6:26 pm

I run an 18 inch 7 blade fan with a HD clutch. Fan is just inside the the shroud.
One thing about temps, the gauges we use may or may not be in calibration, so they may read + or - 5 degrees, and sometimes even more ..

by markyb812 Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:01 am

here's mine.. the built 400ci in my car runs at about 325/350hp and runs 13 seconds on 273 gears ... it keeps about 180/ 190 and it fits like it was always there
https://youtu.be/_Rb03c_YQHQ

by Joe73 Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:16 am

I finally decided on which rad to run and it comes in both auto or manual configuration.

http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_PERFORMANCE/SEARCH_BY_VEHICLE/PONTIAC/GTO/1968/205055

by Joe73 Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:20 am

Marky,. What are the specs and model of that rad? Did it need any tweaks to fit? How did it fit on the isolator pads?

by markyb812 Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:07 am

now your asking ..lol I'll have a look through the paper work as I cant remember, but I know I still have the box as I have stored the original rad in it ...I might be able to get and take some pics when I get out there but think it was a very easy fit..

by Joe73 Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:46 am

Don't go out of your way, your model has the tranny cooler which I would like to avoid. Any idea of brand so we know which fit nicely?

by markyb812 Tue Jan 17, 2017 5:47 pm

Hi joe, here is pics of the rad installed. Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 Wi9enl

Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 30bpvgw

Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 2957ssz

Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 Wui25v

by Joe73 Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:31 pm

VEry cool. Thanks for posting.

by 73ss Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:47 pm

Joe, I have this one. I was looking to replace my old one and Summit had this on the scratch & dent. A few bent fins, 50% off. It fits great and car runs a steady 185. Nice heavy duty trans cooler also, although you don't need it. I had to trim a little "U" off the bottom of the support to clear the drain, as shown in Markys pics. His drain looks really close. Also had to get new 4-core rubber pads. Marky, looks like your top pad is a 2-core? If you want some pics, give me a few days, car is not here. put up for the winter.

Awesome car Marky!!!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380457/overview/year/1973/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle

by Joe73 Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:29 pm

I looked at that summit one as well. I like it. My main concern is how it fits on the isolator pads. The Northern Radiator link that I posted up above has a raised area with weld just like a stock radiator. Most aftermarket dont have that. I think that raised area would fit the isolator pads the best just like stock. And the northern one has good reviews and its made in the usa.

I'm still thinking about using some black radiator paint (that transfers heat) on the northern because it would look just like stock.

by fasrnur Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:33 pm

The Northern radiators are good radiators Joe. I use to sell loads of them when I was on the counter of the place I work at. (LKQ Viking Auto Salvage.)

by Joe73 Wed Jan 18, 2017 12:05 am

fasrnur wrote:The Northern radiators are good radiators Joe. I use to sell loads of them when I was on the counter of the place I work at. (LKQ Viking Auto Salvage.)

Thats what I've been reading. That particular one goes for about 300 to 330. But they pop up on ebay in the 250 to 270 range pretty often. I'd grab one now but I dont want to have the warranty running while its sitting in a box.

by Limey SE Wed Jan 18, 2017 12:55 am

See if you can Purchase Now at sale Price But explain to them you wont be installing for awhile and see if they can Ship it when your ready to Install ?

by pila Thu Jan 19, 2017 6:51 am

Mine is a Champion, that I bought off of Ebay, 3-row aluminum, and fit perfect in the core support, and was $229. shipped. Looks to be very well built also

Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 P1010858_zpsckhbrztg

Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 P1010858_zpsckhbrztg

Radiators - Who is running an Aluminum - Page 2 P1010851_zpswsyqpsyp

These pics are early in the project of course !

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