Re: my current project

by driveit Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:21 am

Thats awesome man!

by Wallyuph Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:49 am

You did a nice job.

by dynchel Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:57 am

Wallyuph wrote:You did a nice job.

thank you. I really wanted to glass a l88 scoop to the hood, but practically every one iv'e ever seen cracked at some point. That is to much work to have it fail. These are heavy pot metal and if nothing else will work as hood stiffeners.

by pila Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:42 pm

NICE JOB ! Very Happy

by thepossumface Thu Nov 14, 2013 2:51 am

I gotta say you have inspired me to wanna create some new things for my Guna! I love the shifter and headliner,

by dynchel Mon Apr 28, 2014 1:36 pm

dynchel wrote:Well since i'm pretty much working with no budget nowadays I really have to get creative if I want to work on my car. So here goes my parts scrounging.
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what I have is my console I got for the price of shipping ($25.00) it didn't come with a box so mcarlo77 hooked me up on that. I just scored the Hurst T-handle from eBay for a whopping $5.00 (it really helps when the seller leaves off important info and you have to inquire about things like what threads it has) The shifter plate I am in the process of making, what do you think? I used sheet metal from a old dish washer I scrapped.
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I am thinking of putting one of my old fender emblems in front of the shifter when completed. it will all be painted / dyed black.
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/
Here is the finished product. This past winter I painted / dyed the console black.
my current project - Page 2 IMG_20140428_130914772_zpsjoc4z9qq

by driveit Mon Oct 13, 2014 1:31 pm

Looks good in black. How is it holding up?

by dynchel Mon Oct 13, 2014 1:49 pm

Fine, its sheet metal that was primed & allowed proper cure time so its pretty durable.

by driveit Mon Oct 13, 2014 2:10 pm

What did you use to paint or dye it?

by dynchel Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:36 pm

Duplicolor ceramic engine enamel.

by chevellelaguna Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:20 pm

I like it! Way to be resourceful, it looks great!

by dynchel Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:27 pm

Thanks, new current project is traction bars that work with the rear sway bar. My good bud is helping & he is a certified welder for byers (they make snow plows & trailer hitches) so they should be strong.

by dynchel Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:32 pm

I am building (or trying to lol) custom traction bars that will work with my 9C1 rear sway bar. I have built the bars, and have them mocked up. So far so good. I bought lakewood snubbers from jegs (about $20.00). I just ordered turnbuckles with rod ends from eBay (about $50.00). I down loaded a picture of a Lakewood traction bar (as well as the instructions) so I'm basically copying it, I am using relocation brackets to attach it to the rear end (already installed). I plan on getting them powder coated black when they are finished. jocolor

. In case you are wondering, the rod ends bolt to the bumpstop bracket on the rear end per Lakewoods instructions. BTW a set of Lakewoods are over $200.00 and require removing the rear bar, I'm shooting for less than $100.00 with the intact.
my current project - Page 2 IMG_20141022_121458084_HDR_zpstloiikew

my current project - Page 2 IMG_20141022_121458084_HDR_zpstloiikew

by impalamonte Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:42 pm

like your creativity....good work!!

by dynchel Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:44 pm

Thanks, minimal "car fund" forces creativity.

by thatfnthing Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:31 pm

impalamonte wrote:like your creativity....good work!!

x2, and going them one better by being able to keep the sway bar is pretty impressive!

by Joe73 Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:59 pm

Just fyi. I'd put alot of adjustment in the rod ends so you can move the snubber away from the chassis when you dont want to use the bars.
Because when you have the snubber close to the chassis to gain the extra traction from lack of axle rotation, you will lose suspension travel. So driving around the neighborhood the snubber will keep hitting the chassis and rotating the axle when driving normally.
Basically, suspension travel, and ride quality, will suffer with normal driving because with the snubber close and you hit a bump, your pinion yoke will be trying to nose dive into the ground.

Just a thought.

by dynchel Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:08 pm

Thanks joe, The turnbuckles I ordered have two inches of adjustment, so that should be plenty. I plan to play with the adjustments to find a happy medium. The car rarely goes more than five miles from home, so the ride quality is not real important to me.

by Joe73 Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:44 pm

Also, in case u find that 2 inches of adjustment isnt enough. You can grab a set of flat snubbers to use. Tbat would give you more room and its a simple swap. Good luck with it.

by dynchel Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:46 pm

Cool, thanks.

by pila Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:10 pm

Great job on the "custom" console assembly ! Very Happy

Bill

by dynchel Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:19 pm

Thanks.

by jerry46765 Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:13 pm

I jumped over here so we aren't pimping the other guy's thread.

The combination of rake in the car, front low/rear high, and higher spring rates from the wagon definitely aren't helping wheel hop. Are you running production length four link arms? What do you have for shocks, longer than stock for tall springs?

Providing you are running production length arms, could you put the old springs back in order to level the car (no rake), and install oem length shocks?

What are the rear tire pressures?
Does lowering pressure change amount of hop?
Is wheel hop worse or better at a drag strip?

by jerry46765 Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:17 pm

Well, guess I should have posted over there...

by dynchel Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:41 pm

Sorry jerry, I'm at dinner. (Wife bitches at me for playing on my phone) I had replacement springs before the s/w springs. It hopped. Shocks are h/d stock replacements, Not taller. Stock length arms, air pressure at 32 psi. Raising or lowering a/p doesn't seem to change anything.

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