Interior removal / update.

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Post by Dinomyte on Sun Jan 18, 2015 9:02 pm

It's been a couple of weeks of cleaning / painting interior parts.  

I've painted the bulk of the plastic panels and they all look just fine, but they all have a sandy feeling to them.  Not as bad as a black board, but not as smooth as they were.  Any ideas what I need to do differently?  I don't want to spray the vinyl panels if this is what they will feel like.

Also has anyone ever removed the chrome trim and buttons from the vinyl panels and got them back on?  The tabs on the back look like they won't take much bending back and forth.

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I think the buttons are stitched, on the other side of the hard board, like sofa cushions.


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This part of the console is a soft spongy material, how does it handle SEM paint? Do I need to do something different with it?

thanks
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Post by dynchel on Sun Jan 18, 2015 9:09 pm

On the console top I used sem vinyl dye, worked very well.  For the door panels I've removed the chrome once or twice, just be careful bending the tabs. On mine (door panels)  the center part with the buttons is cloth so I never had a need to remove them, can't help there.  Good luck.
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Post by 77mali on Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:05 pm

Like John said- just be real careful w/ the chromed moldings- they do come off easy.  If you have any real rusty ones- you'll want to be as gentle as possible.  I used some pliers with some electrical tape over the serrated edges on mine.  Leave the buttons alone if at all possible.  Not sure what you mean by "sandy"?  What did you use to clean the vinyl?  I used SEM Soap to clean them with their scotch-pad type sponge with as little force as possible to get them clean.  I used their Triple X primer and then Duplicolor black vinyl paint for a finish.  So far so good. One of these days I'll get a pic of the finished panel.  Still haven't put the moldings back though, needs polishing.  It was more of a test subject, LOL.
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Post by Roadcaptain S3 on Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:39 pm

I've had dye get that gritty feel before. In my case I think it was the temperature outside. It was a little cooler than recommended and I think that affected the paint. It was kinda like it was drying a bit before it contacted the surface, or that the temp. was making the dye thicken, if that makes sense.
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Tue Jan 20, 2015 12:54 am

X2 on getting that gritty finish. I also felt it was maybe due to cooler temps as I noticed it when trying to paint a part this past Fall. The same can of paint did just fine when used during the summer.
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Post by Dinomyte on Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:28 am

Thanks guys. It seems that it's a combination of cooler temperatures and spraying from too far back. I guess I'll have to just prep and wait till it's nice and warm outside to put another coat on.

77mali - thanks for the picture. I've always thought the two screws with the silver rings were an upholsterer's fix for panels that didn't fit just right. I see you've got them too, in the exact same spots.
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Post by Roadcaptain S3 on Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:37 am

I have painted stuff when it was 40 ish, when the can recommended 60 degree minimum. I kept the paint and the part in the house, then ran outside for a quick coat, then back in to dry. Worked well.
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Post by 77mali on Tue Jan 20, 2015 12:32 pm

Dinomyte wrote:Thanks guys. It seems that it's a combination of cooler temperatures and spraying from too far back.  I guess I'll have to just prep and wait till it's nice and warm outside to put another coat on.

77mali - thanks for the picture.  I've always thought the two screws with the silver rings were an upholsterer's fix for panels that didn't fit just right.  I see you've got them too, in the exact same spots.


No problem.  Those are stock screws, lol.  Theres a couple of similar ones on the dash pad as well, where the top front of the doors meet it by the pillar.

Kinda neat how they separate the upper & lower panels.  I had to make a couple repairs on the upper near the top but it was in mostly good shape, just a little water or humidity damage over it's life.  Are you going to seal the doors with a vapor (Vapour for you) barrier under all that stuff?  I plan to use like a 40 mil thick peel & stick after everything is ready to go back on & the door is painted (yes I am planning to repaint the inside of the doors when I do the jambs).
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Post by Dinomyte on Tue Jan 20, 2015 1:19 pm

Roadcaptain S3 wrote:I have painted stuff when it was 40 ish, when the can recommended 60 degree minimum. I kept the paint and the part in the house, then ran outside for a quick coat, then back in to dry. Worked well.

I did about the same, but left things outside for about four hours with a space heater. Obviously not warm enough.
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Post by Dinomyte on Tue Jan 20, 2015 1:21 pm

77mali wrote:
Dinomyte wrote:Thanks guys. It seems that it's a combination of cooler temperatures and spraying from too far back.  I guess I'll have to just prep and wait till it's nice and warm outside to put another coat on.

77mali - thanks for the picture.  I've always thought the two screws with the silver rings were an upholsterer's fix for panels that didn't fit just right.  I see you've got them too, in the exact same spots.


No problem.  Those are stock screws, lol.  Theres a couple of similar ones on the dash pad as well, where the top front of the doors meet it by the pillar.

Kinda neat how they separate the upper & lower panels.  I had to make a couple repairs on the upper near the top but it was in mostly good shape, just a little water or humidity damage over it's life.  Are you going to seal the doors with a vapor (Vapour for you) barrier under all that stuff?  I plan to use like a 40 mil thick peel & stick after everything is ready to go back on & the door is painted (yes I am planning to repaint the inside of the doors when I do the jambs).

Yes plan the same things. Need to wait for warmer weather. It's hovering around 0C, (that's 32F for you Smile ) not too bad if you're active but hard on the hands if you're not moving enough.
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:15 pm

FYI...each of those upper panel buttons are held on by two spread prongs that are between the outer fabric/vinyl and cardboard backing. Don't know how you'd remove them without the risk of damage...unless you carefully cut out the cardboard backing right behind each one and squeezed the prongs together so as to pull the button off. Next time out, I'll find a damaged panel and investigate...if, for no other reason than to satisfy my curiosity.
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Post by Wallyuph on Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:57 am

Mcarlo77. they are called prong buttons. Here is a photo of one.
Interior removal / update. - Page 3 <a href=Interior removal / update. - Page 3 Prong10" />

We (Upholstery guys) make them up from vinyl or fabric. They can be bent back straight and pushed out. Unless its really rusty you can take them on and off a few times with out breaking the prongs off. If worse thing happens and its breaks just go to a Upholstery shop and have them make you a new one. you need a 50 cent size piece of vinyl to make up the button. I cut chunks out of my old sample books that are a close match for people if they are missing one and don't have a scrap piece of vinyl.

Now you are in the know.

Wally Laughing
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Post by Dinomyte on Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:43 pm

Wally - you are awesome.  That's perfect.  Now I can take the panel completely apart and and not worry about getting good coverage around the buttons, when I dye them.

Thanks
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Post by Wallyuph on Fri Jan 23, 2015 11:13 am

Dinomyte wrote:Wally - you are awesome.  That's perfect.  Now I can take the panel completely apart and and not worry about getting good coverage around the buttons, when I dye them.

Thanks

Any time Glad I was able to help.
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Post by Dinomyte on Sun Feb 01, 2015 4:09 pm

I was taking my seats (swivel buckets) apart to paint the back panel and the base on them.  I'm not sure of how the back panel comes off.  Can I use a putty knife and just pry it out at the edge? or what ? There don't seem to be any fasteners or anything other than the trim from the seat vinyl holding the back on.

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Post by Mcarlo77 on Sun Feb 01, 2015 4:32 pm

I took one of those apart a couple yrs ago to dispose of it and seems to me it wasn't an easy task removing the seat back...but, can't remember exactly why. Think that pinch welt trim just locks over a lip on the seat back.

Can I ask a favor since you have the track off it? Can you take some measurements exactly as it's laying on the table to give me an idea what size box it might take to ship one of these (without the track)?
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Post by Limey SE on Sun Feb 01, 2015 5:41 pm

Steve if this is what you mean these are the measurements

16 wide , 12 front to back and 2 1/2 deep but arm mechanism  for swivel goes 1 inch past the bottom.

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Post by Mcarlo77 on Sun Feb 01, 2015 5:57 pm

Sorry...what I meant was to measure the seat without the track to see how large of a box it would require to ship. Good to know the track measurements too, as those may need to be shipped as well. Thanks.
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Post by Limey SE on Sun Feb 01, 2015 6:09 pm

oh you meant Just the seats themselves I shipped a set to Canada a few years back and it took two wardrobe boxes (u-haul type) cut down to size over the seats and Lots o tape to secure them around it
Each seat took 2 boxes
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Sun Feb 01, 2015 6:22 pm

Whoa...bet that was expensive!
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Post by Limey SE on Sun Feb 01, 2015 6:34 pm

More than the seats cost BUT they were mint and didn't need anything BUT mounted
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Post by Dinomyte on Sun Feb 01, 2015 7:25 pm

Mcarlo77 wrote:I took one of those apart a couple yrs ago to dispose of it and seems to me it wasn't an easy task removing the seat back...but, can't remember exactly why.  Think that pinch welt trim just locks over a lip on the seat back.

Can I ask a favor since you have the track off it?  Can you take some measurements exactly as it's laying on the table to give me an idea what size box it might take to ship one of these (without the track)?

Here you go

17" high x 23" deep x 40" wide as it sits in the picture, seat cushion down /\ .

Yes the molding around the lip locks onto the frame and is part of the upholstery, but the seat back (the plastic piece) actually goes on last, so I'm betting it comes off first. The re-upholstery video that says these are the hardest thing in the world to re-cover because the cover is one piece specifically says the plastic back cover goes on last.
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:11 pm

Thanks, Dino.

Too bad I didn't know about this yesterday, or else I could have pulled another one apart out at the yard. There is a nasty one sitting in a '73 Cutlass that would have been a great candidate as a learning tool.
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Post by Dinomyte on Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:21 pm

Mcarlo77 wrote:Thanks, Dino.

Too bad I didn't know about this yesterday, or else I could have pulled another one apart out at the yard.  There is a nasty one sitting in a '73 Cutlass that would have been a great candidate as a learning tool.

Steve - you know the snow is coming down sideways here for the last two days, and you had weather nice enough to go to the scrapyard. . .

Maybe somebody else are already done it and will comment later on.
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Post by Mcarlo77 on Sun Feb 01, 2015 10:07 pm

Yeah...it was a day in the mid-20's, no wind and bare ground. Really very comfortable. Sorry to see you guys getting more snow.
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