73 Chevelle, getting close

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Post by 73ss on Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:31 pm

Flywheel wrote:Thanks 73SS. I'll be surprised if I didnt screw someting up... Lol.   Trans and headers installed. Now its lookin really cool. As I'm fiddling with the detent cable I notice that now my throttle cable is stuck..the stock detent is not adjustable so I may just go ahead and replace both of them.. I went with a 2000-2300 stall converter, I'm hoping that was a good choice.

The detent cable should go directly to the gas pedal and not the carb on a '73. Hopefully your trans will work fine. Don't be alarmed if the car doesn't move at first. It can sometimes take a good 10 min or so for the converter to fill all the way up with fluid.
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Post by Flywheel on Mon Nov 18, 2019 8:42 pm

I think I'm gonna go with a later model detent, I like being able to adjust it. Disconnect detent, adjust modulator and dial in shift points, then reconnect and dial in passing gear. I was able to get about a quart into the converter before installing. I'll dump in 4 quarts before initial start up, then add 2 more during cam break in. Afyer cam break in I'll adjust fluid level then check for engagement while its on the stands.
But heres a question. I dont wanna screw a heater control valve into an edelbrock intake, it just looks wierd. So is the stock control valve normally closed until vacuum is applied? If so I found a nice compact inline valve I can install close to the bulkhead
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Post by 73ss on Mon Nov 18, 2019 9:07 pm

That I don't know. You do need the valve if it's an A\c car, otherwise heat will blow all the time, even when it's on cold.
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Post by Flywheel on Mon Nov 18, 2019 11:18 pm

I have confirmed that the heater control valve is normally open and it closes, stopping flow to the heater core when vacuum is applied. Using an AC vacuum pump I have also confirmed that when applying vacuum to the climate control switch, that in any position hot or cold, heater or AC, I have no vacuum in the heater control valve hose. Through firewall vacuum hose integrity was also verified using a vacuum pump. Looks like a manual valve will be installed until I feel the need to locate and purchase a vacuum switch. #itwantsmoremoney
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Post by Flywheel on Wed Nov 27, 2019 1:07 am

Heres the latest photo. The plan is to start it Thanksgiving morning. Open headers for cam break in, should be fun!


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Post by bracketchev1221 on Wed Nov 27, 2019 8:20 am

Flywheel wrote:I have confirmed that the heater control valve is normally open and it closes, stopping flow to the heater core when vacuum is applied. Using an AC vacuum pump I have also confirmed that when applying vacuum to the climate control switch, that in any position hot or cold, heater or AC, I have no vacuum in the heater control valve hose. Through firewall vacuum hose integrity was also verified using a vacuum pump. Looks like a manual valve will be installed until I feel the need to locate and purchase a vacuum switch. #itwantsmoremoney

As far as I know, the heater control valve only cycles when the AC is on max a/c setting. This makes sure there is no coolant going through the heater core. Otherwise it will not move on any other setting from what I have seen.
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Post by Flywheel on Wed Nov 27, 2019 9:53 am

Thanks bracket. I'll retest.
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Post by Flywheel on Thu Nov 28, 2019 12:38 pm

Started her up this morning. Cam broke in, no leaks, good oil pressure, I have drive and reverse.. I am thankful! Happy thanksgiving everyone!!
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Post by g3chevy on Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:09 am

Considering all the work you've done to the motor and tranny it's amazing everything functions without issue. You must have the golden touch!
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Dec 01, 2019 11:24 am

Thank you sir, I do have a green thumb, maybe there's some connection. Right now I'm trying to figure out why I only have high speed blower with the AC set to Max. I have all blower speeds in every other mode. Is that normal operation?
I ordered the exhaust kit from Jegs on black friday, still gotta build the PS pump, torque the A arms, grease the chassis and set the toe before I can test drive. Also gotta locate the wire for the temp light and figure out what the previous owner wired the electric choke to (some existing wire). Still need to replace the Vent duct hoses I removed a year ago.. It was nice to turn the blower on and not smell rat filth.
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Post by g3chevy on Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:21 pm

Maybe I should acquire a green thumb too. Then I might have better luck with projects on my Laguna. I believe on 73-75 models that when A/C is set on Max you have only the high speed blower option. On 76 & 77 models I think it works on all settings. At least it did on my 77 El Camino I just sold. Love to hear your 73 running when you get the exhaust put on. Maybe you can post a video to YouTube? Oh, and to keep rats and mice out of my vehicles that I store for any length of time I use dryer sheets. I place them under the seats and in the A/C ducts and that usually does the trick.
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Post by Flywheel on Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:37 pm

Thanks! That does appear to be the case according to the wiring diagram. And you gotta love the blower always on low speed when the ignition is on feature, I'll be addding a switch to remedy that. (Not a problem really, it just annoys me)
I'll definately post a youtube video once the exhaust is on. I had a heck of a time getting WOT with the edelbrock carb, ended up tweaking the go fast pedal a bit to get more throw.
I had the typical no power to (some electrial load) until you wiggle a fuse concern. Cleaned the terminals and fuses, and treated with Stabilant 22. I've never had a repeated poor connection after using Stabilant.
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Post by Flywheel on Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:12 pm

Exhaust is on.. Here's the Vid.


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Post by g3chevy on Sat Dec 07, 2019 9:39 pm

Nice! Now that's how a muscle car should look and sound!
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Post by Flywheel on Sat Dec 07, 2019 11:24 pm

Thank you sir, that is the perfect compliment!! Yeah, you don't wanna see THAT front bumper coming at ya! You're lookin' at whiplash, or tetnus, or both! I squared the left side, set the toe a 1/16th out.. No power steering (about to order the can and seals), but I took it for a spin around the neighborhood.. I have carb issues, not enough or possibly very little pump shot and it's running very rich. It also randomly misfires now and then, several cylinders in succession, under hard throttle, under load. I want to blame the carb but I'm not so sure that's a carb issue, although it has been sitting for a year. Not sure how old the control module is, but it looks old. who knows how long it ran on resistance wire in the past..
I can highly recommend the jegs exhaust kits, it was a breeze to install and looks great. 2/12 inch exhaust is a tight fit over the rear axle, and the kit works perfectly. The right side header (flowtech) turns up a bit at the collector, enough that I had to clearance the pipe at the cross member slightly, but I only had to clearance one tube at the lower control arm bracket on the right bank, again, slightly. I've never built a car for the street before (for myself).. The best way I can describe driving it... I feel like I stole something!! Laughing
Now here's the question. Do I start on the body in spring, or, do I straighten, align, and paint the front bumper satin black, throw in a premiered filler panel and enjoy the summer? I need to restore the door panels, but I don't wanna do those until I bolt the mirrors on for the last time, which I need to replace because they are broken. I have the mirrors, I guess I could satin black them too for a few months. Think I like plan B.
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Post by Joe73 Yesterday at 5:16 pm

Car looks and sounds great!!! Which jegs kit did you use? Were the mufflers offset/offset or offset/center ? Any pics of the system under the floor?
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Post by Flywheel Yesterday at 6:00 pm

Thanks Joe! I used - Header-Back Dual 2-1/2 in. Exhaust Kit 1973-1977 Chevelle, Malibu, El Camino, Monte Carlo, Cutlass, Century, Regal, Grand Prix Part Number : 555-30542. Mufflers are offset inlet, centered outlet. I don't have an under floor photo but the pipes hug the line of the floor pan perfectly. a couple of pipes require cutting the length to fit.
Ordred the power steering can, seal kit, carb kit and a delco control module today. I'll probably spring for the replacement plastic inner fenders after christmas, I have one plastic and one metal right now, and they're rough.
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Post by Joe73 Yesterday at 6:06 pm

Awesome !!! I have and like the Jegs kit as well. But I purchased the 68-72 stainless kit just because they use the offset/offset mufflers. Im using the Pypes Race Pros. No issues going over the axle or clearing everything. Everything lines up real nicely in mine as well. I cut a bit off the length of the tailpipes because I want to use factory turn down tips. My exhaust isnt installed yet because I'd like to tweak the front pipe just a pinch for a better fit. I wont be using the supplied brackets and such. I'll be welding on a simple walker rod hanger. Great job!! Keep posting pics.
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Post by Flywheel Yesterday at 6:28 pm

I got some straight chrome tips with ends cut at about 45 degrees that were already on the car and were clean enough to keep. I too gotta do some tweaking before I tack the tips in place.
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